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Sam06
November 12, 2009, 04:58 PM
I want to Build and start shooting a rock lock. I am looking at the GPR as a starter gun how are they? I have searched the forum and from what I have found they seem like a good gun. I figure I can upgrade the Barrel and lock once I get into it a little more. I don't want to go whole hog off the bat with a $700+ gun like a Lehman track of the wolf gun but I may.

I am a good wood worker and I have a nice set of hand tools. I do most of my own gunsmithing so I am not worried there.

Thanks in advance.

Oh yea I want a 54 cal slow twist to shoot PRB.

bapfreak
November 12, 2009, 05:21 PM
I've got a GPP which is similar to the GPR (Percussion) except that the barrel is 9" and the but stock is missing. I bought the pistol as "finished"; it wasn't a kit. But even with it being "finished" the hammer was way off center. The correct way of fixing that is to apply asbestos (or similar) to the top and bottom of the hammer and heat the middle to cherry red and tap the hammer a couple of times gently to correctly center it. I am an apartment dweller and don't have a garage, much less a vice and blowtorch, so I just ended up putting a washer between the lock plate and the hammer. You will need to be able to do three things well in order to complete this project: wood finishing, metal finishing (maybe?), and general fitting. I don't remember if the metal is finished or not in the kit, but with most kits the metal is bare white. I like my GPP, it feels quality built (in stark contrast to Traditions sub-par muzzleloaders) and it looks beautiful. It fires very accurately using the right caps and real black powder. I would suggest that you replace the nipple with a "magnum" nipple. The standard nipple is just terrible; its firing channel is tiny and it fouls up in about five to ten shots. The gun is a lot more reliable once a better nipple is installed; you can find them on www.dixiegunworks.com.

mykeal
November 12, 2009, 06:02 PM
I built a .54 GPR flintlock two winters ago and have been very pleased with the results. The kit is 95% finished with respect to inletting. I had to do some minor work at the back of the barrel channel and the tang to move the barrel bakcso the tang screw would fit, and the escutcheon screws are very small and fragile (do NOT turn them past just barely tight); I actually replaced mine with some from Brownell's. The stock, barrel and furniture are unfinished and will require browning or bluing. Some have left the furniture unfinished for an interesting effect; they age nicely. I used Laurel Mountain browning solution.

I'm very happy with the way the gun carries and shoots. Couldn't ask for better.

Sam06
November 12, 2009, 08:40 PM
Thanks for the replies and i have been doing some looking online. It seems like the GPR is a good deal. At 388 bucks for the kit it is hard to beat. The problem is i would really like a full stocked gun that looks like a TVM Early Va rifle.

Like this:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r316/mkpainter/TVM-VA004.jpg

The kit is about on par with what i have seen and I am confidant I can put one together and have it turn out nice. But again at 6-700 bucks that is a lot of money.

4V50 Gary
November 12, 2009, 10:31 PM
Lyman kits are not the same as a fancy Jim Chambers kit. But the Lyman kit is the way to go. You've got to find out if you even like the hobby so why spend a princely sum when a smaller one will do? Go ahead with the Lyman. Then build your powder horn and hunting bag.

BTW, if you want a custom touch, put a small, circular patchbox on the side of the stock.

darkgael
November 13, 2009, 07:15 PM
GPR flintlock - a great buy.
Just yesterday I shot this three shot group in a contest. Patched round ball at 100 yards. Lyman flinter.
http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/PeteDoyle/GPR3shotat100.jpg

Sam06
November 14, 2009, 06:53 AM
Thanks for the responses and advice. I think I am going to go with the GPR. I know they shoot good and the lock functions but I kind of wanted a fullstock gun. I will get over it and if I like the flinter I will get a expensive one later on. When I get it built I will post a picture.

Sam, stimulating the economy one gun at a time:D

6kilo
November 19, 2009, 12:04 AM
If you have never shot a flintlock before it takes a little getting used to and a number of folks I know were all worked up to get into it and then found it wasn't to their liking. Buy the Lyman kit and give it a good work out, if you like it then purchase a nice full stock pre-inlet Hawken stock for it and make a fullstocked rifle, won't be a long barreled one for sure, but it will be a very nice looking, well shooting full stock plains style rifle. I'm actually leaning towards this right now myself. Good luck.

horseman308
November 19, 2009, 12:08 PM
If you haven't already ordered a Lyman, you should check out Sitting Fox Forge.

www.sittingfoxmuzzleloaders.com

They've got pretty good prices - comparable to the Lyman - for Poor-boy style rifles that are full stocked. It might be another option for a similar price.

sewerman
November 28, 2009, 01:42 PM
i second sitting fox.

i purchased two kits from ray several years ago.

ray worked very hard to please me and even ordered in a davis lock that he had as an option but was out of stock at the time of order.

ray has upgraded his web site since i ordered but i think i ordered the penn barn gun and the buck & ball kit.
the buck & ball had the upgraded walnut stock and davis lock.

though i'm still working on the first kit, P. barn gun...i have learned alot and look forward to startng the buck and ball one day.

before purchasing these kits i had done factory kits and also reworked stocks and locks of used rifles which i had bought. all of this experience still did not prepare me for all the inletting that is necessary for a semi blank stock.
it is a challenge until one figures out the ropes of it all.

i sure was glad that the barrel channel was at least complete!

give ray a call...i got two gun kits for the price of one of the others several kits available in the market place.

good luck with your choice and work.

cheers,
sewerman