View Full Version : List your cleaning equipment
October 30, 2009, 05:32 AM
I probably haven't paid enough attention to my cleaning equipment in the past. So what should I have and why.
List what you have and use.
Have and don't use.
What else would you like to have?
What is just a gimmick?
I'm about to teach a young 'gun nut' and want to point him in the right direction.
October 30, 2009, 06:59 AM
Boresnakes for each Caliber
October 30, 2009, 08:23 AM
For a new shooter such as your young lad, there are some inexpensive kits sold by Hoppe's and some of the other manufacturers.
Basics would be: Cleaning Rod with applicable tips
Cotton Patches sized for the corresponding caliber
Gun Oil (lubricant)
Your kit need not be fancy nor expensive. With that being said, my cleaning kit has become so intricate, I have commandeered an old suitcase and use that to keep all my cleaning equipment in.
October 30, 2009, 08:37 AM
A good selection of brass jags. You might have to try a couple different brands or different brands/kinds of patches to get just the perfect fit for your guns barrel. But a good combo is a wonderful thing when you clean.
Brass bristle brushes, not nylon.
Copper scrub pads, (NOT copper coated steel! check with a magnet, the real copper ones will not stick to a magnet)
WeaponShield is great, Breakfree is also.
Q-tips, pipe cleaners, dental probes, shis-ka-bob sticks
Copper remover (use with care!)
JB bore paste!
Good rods, I prefer non sectional. Dewey
October 30, 2009, 10:16 AM
One piece (dewey) rods.
Bore Snakes for shotguns, I don't think they work very well on rifles.
Brass brushes for every caliber.
Powder solvent, copper solvent, lead solvent.
Regular oil in a bottle, light spray oil, brake cleaner.
pre cut patches (because I'm lazy)
Cloth baby diaper to lay parts and cleaning tools on.
October 30, 2009, 03:36 PM
*Hoppe's Elite 44" Cleaning Rod...Epoxy Coated Stainless Steel...1 piece ***
***To answer Your question about wiping the "crud" off the rod, I do that because I've read alot of "Other Peoples' Opinions", stating they don't like Coated Rods "because" small particles of fouling can become imbedded, which can scratch barrel steel with successive strokes/passes.......Hmm....
***How is that completely true? Pretty much the only fouling is from Powder and Bullets...Those "bits" of fouling will scratch my bore now that they're loose? My OPINION on that is, that fouling is as safe as we all know it is (copper won't scratch steel), and it won't be any more harmful now that it's loose and stuck to the cleaning rod. BUT, considering that's just my OPINION, I wipe the rod every time it comes out of the bore, and I get the same discoloration off of the rod as I get on a patch that exits the muzzle.
*Hoppe's Elite Coated Rod (stated above) with Hoppe's Elite Handle. The Handle has Ball Bearings in it which allows it to rotate freely, as the brush and jag follow the rifling.
*Iosso Eliminator Brushes. Polymer/Nylon bristles on a Brass Core. I prefer these brushes, hands down, because the bristles are Non-Metallic and the cores are brass, which won't scratch, and these brushes are better resistant to solvents. ***Remember, it's the Solvent that dissolves/removes fouling. Brushes help loosen fouling, and move the dissolved fouling so the Solvent can better "take effect" on the fouling that's still there. ***Also, this is MY system of removing Powder and Copper Fouling. Guys that shoot Cast Lead Bullets, may very well have a different system for removing that type of Fouling.
*Bore Guide. This replaces the Bolt of a Bolt Action FireArm, and Guides the cleaning rod through the bore, keeping the rod better aligned, and also helps keep solvents and oils from seeping into the Action. I use a Dewey Bore Saver Adjustable 13".
*Jags. Jags are threaded onto the cleaning rod and push patches through the bore. For my .270, I use a .270 caliber Parker Hale Style Jag, which is all brass and knurled, and has a blunt, rounded tip that doesn't pierce through the patch.
*Patches. I use Cotton Patches (cut to size). They're cheaper and tough. I use the cotton patches for MOST of the process, but the cotton will usually leave lint. I keep a small quantity of Synthetic Patches for the last few passes, as they tend to not leave lint.
*Solvent. I ONLY use Butch's Bore Shine.
These 2 Quotes are my posts on another Thread...
I use Butch's Bore Shine...ONLY...Nothing Less, Nothing More. Iosso Eliminator brushes, which are Polymer Bristles on a Brass Core.
I soak the brush with Butch's, make a few passes, soak the brush again, more passes. FULL passes, NOT back and forth within the bore with short strokes...From receiver to muzzle and back. I'll repeat this 4-5 times until I KNOW the bore is coated well and alot of the "loose" fouling is "DISlodged", and I'll let it sit for a few minutes, say 2-5 minutes, allowing the Solvent to Do It's Thing on the powder residue.
Pass a Solvent-Wet patch thru. That patch will be nasty. I let it set for 5-10 minutes. Another Solvent Soaked patch thru. 5-10 minutes again, I'll make about 10 passes with a Solvent Soaked Brush, 5-10 minutes, then a Dry Patch to remove what's been dissolved.
I'll repeat this until a patch comes out clean, with no blue residue.
Put in the time, You'll be very pleased. And once You get that rifle clean, it's much easier to maintain. I prefer to Bore Clean every 10-20 rounds, but that's just personal preference, and that's only if I have the time. At minimium, every 25 rounds.
After the Bore is free of copper fouling and no more blue shows on the patches, I run a Dry patch to remove most of the Solvent, then an Oil Soaked Patch, then a Dry Patch to remove most of the oil.
Also, work Your Solvent out of something. I work Solvent out of a Stainless Steel Kitchen Spoon Rest. The SS Spoon Rest is stable, plenty of space/capacity to work from. If You work Your Solvent out of the Original Solvent Bottle, dipping the Brush and/or Dirty Patches in it, You will weaken the Solvent.
This is My System. I get Second-To-None Results.
Also, keep Your Chamber clean and free of Oil. An Oily, Slick Chamber is Dangerous. Upon firing, the case expands (as we all know) and contacts the walls of the Chamber. If Your chamber is Oily, there won't be much (or enough) Friction to keep the case firmly seated against the Chamber Walls, and the Pressure will push the case back against the Bolt Face/Bolt/Action. In the more extreme cases/incidents, this can result/has resulted in the Shooter receiving a "shot" in the face, with the Bolt.
Stay Safe!!! And always be Meticulous!!! Details-Details-Details.
October 31, 2009, 03:13 AM
G'day and thank for the input, keep it up.
Some say Brass brushes not Nylon, others say Nylon is fine. Bronze or Stainless steel. When to use what type, and when not to?
I saw the post about the Aluminium cleaning rods (http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=382440). I should have known that answer, if I had thought about it.:o
I have read that only cotton flannel should be used as patches. Anybody have any comments on this?
October 31, 2009, 04:44 AM
I can say, DO NOT use Stainless Brushes in a Stainless Barrel! I'm not sure about stainless brushes in Chromoly Steel barrels, as I have no experience with that. Bronze is really about the best brush bristle material there is, just be careful with the Bronze if they have a Core made of something other than brass.
I prefer to use the Nylon/Polymer and rely more on the Solvent...That's just my personal preference... And, if I'm not mistaken, harsh solvents like Sweets 7.62 and Barnes CR-10 can harm the bronze and brass bristle brushes, but that's Hear-Say, although from a reliable source.
As for the Patches, I've read that You shouldn't use patches made of Paper, because some people say it'll scratch, but again, I'm not sure about that. I can say, that most of the Synthetic Patches I've used have done great, and I have not read anything against the use of them.
October 31, 2009, 11:31 PM
For a new shooter such as your young lad
His father has already shown him the basic 'how to' as they have .22 & a 6.5 . I just want to be able to give him the theory behind the process.
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