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bearbong
October 16, 2009, 03:19 PM
1. Where can I get it?
2. If I'm putting on a scope, do I sight it in and then put in on?
3. do you put in on as a seal, or do you put in on the whole screw then screw it in?
4. how do you adjust items after you've used loctite?

Anything else I might need to know? Much appreciated!

Joat
October 16, 2009, 03:51 PM
Locktite can be found at lowe's, home depot, sears HW, walmart, ace, etc. You can find "guntite" at academy, gander mtn, and order it from midway or brownells
it is used to hold the scope bases and rings in place. not the adjustment screws. Also used to hold things that you want "locked" in place.
Place a drop or two on the threads and assemble. It will dry fairly quickly forming a bond.
You disassemble the locktited part then clean off the old locktite and put new stuff on when putting it back together. There is no adjustment once the locktite has setup. That is why you use LOCKtite.


Joat

Old Grump
October 16, 2009, 05:07 PM
Suggest using blue loctite instead of red, it sets up but not as fast and is easier to take the screw out when you want to disassemble it. Red loctite doesn't want to let go once it is set and it sets fast.

alloy
October 16, 2009, 05:25 PM
Purple, or Loctite 222 is very good for small screws, but likely harder to find locally than blue unless you deal with an industrial outfit like Mcmaster Carr.

JerseyDrez
October 16, 2009, 08:37 PM
Id also suggest cleaning the screws frequently so they dont get all gummed up from so much Locktite.

Armed Citizen
October 16, 2009, 09:43 PM
Use the blue loctite/guntite from Gander Mt. or Bass Pro shop. It holds well and is removeable if you want to make a change later. The red is almost permanent and a pain to remove later.

LHB1
October 16, 2009, 10:56 PM
Basics:
Use Blue Loctite on the base screws and ring screws when installing scope. Then use scope adjustment dials under turret covers with NO LOCTITE when sighting scope in.

bearbong
October 17, 2009, 01:55 PM
That is exactly what I needed to know and all the responses are greatly appreciated! that is what makes this forum so damn good and keeps me from making additions to my firearms "ornaments"!!

Doyle
October 17, 2009, 05:40 PM
If you can't find "Loctite" brand, there is another brand that does the same thing. I can't remember but I think it is sold under the name "Threadlocker" or something like that. Does the same job.

murphjup
October 17, 2009, 06:32 PM
Keep in mind the Blue Loctite is actually pretty watery, so it really doesn't take much, have a paper towel close by...

:cool:

JohnKSa
October 17, 2009, 09:55 PM
Helpful hint.

To easily and quickly remove a screw that has been "loctited" in place, heat the screw with a soldering iron or soldering gun and the loctite will soften so you can remove the screw. The softening is permanent so if you want to reinstall you'll have to clean the screw and screwhole carefully and reapply loctite.

Obviously the heat solution won't work if the screw goes through something like plastic or anything else heat-sensitive.

rrockefe
November 22, 2009, 12:02 AM
I recently bought blue locktite at Ace hardware in a gel form that seems easier to control than the old style liquid.

Old Grump
November 22, 2009, 08:00 PM
Alternate thread lockers

http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/rgl.htm

skeeter
November 24, 2009, 01:33 AM
Loctite will say on the package what color to use for what size screw, If I remember right anything less than a 1/4" should get purple 222m.
Interestingly on their 50 BMG rifles, Barrett does not recommend any Loctite for the cap screws or base nuts but did say if i must use some use only purple on the cap screws and blue of base screws/nuts. I clean all oil off the screws and female threads with alcohol and put a small amount on the screw threads.
Barrett may be saying this because they recommend a 35 "/lbs torque setting on the cap screws and 65 "/lbs on the base screws/nuts. You also will not get the right torque reading if you use anti-seize or oil.
It is very important to torque all scope mounts and cap screws to manufacturers specs though most people do not do this.