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HiStandardB
August 2, 2009, 11:07 PM
Just bought an old Mosin Nagant 91/30. Finally got to shoot it today, it was a lot of fun. Problem is I cant see a bullseye at 50 yards so I was looking for scope mounts. Anybody have any suggestions on where to find one. Thanks

mp25ds4
August 2, 2009, 11:44 PM
with a scope mount comes the need for a scope, and a turned down bolt, which for a decent one will run you about 50$ a piece. Unless you buy a scope with long eye relief. scope mounts can run from 15$ on ebay (which is what i have) to the 100$ PU mounts which will be the hardest to install

MagnumWill
August 17, 2009, 10:12 AM
Depends on what scope you want to do. You can do the scout conversion (which IMO is kind of sloppy) where you put a rail in the rear sight tang, or you can do the PU conversion (which I did), but it's a little more complex. Getting a (good!) turndown bolt cost me about $80 from buymilsurp.com, the sight mount was $90 from gunbroker, and the scope was $130 from GB as well. And it helps to have a good drill press and some other machine tools to make install go easy. I didn't have any trouble drilling and tapping the receiver, but I'm sure other people might be a little scared (and I don't blame 'em). But think about this- when you go to the range and people see your scout conversion, they might think it's kind of cheesy. but if you go to the range with one like it came right out of Stalingrad, you tend to get a lot more compliments :rolleyes:

jsmaye
August 17, 2009, 10:53 AM
But think about this- when you go to the range and people see your scout conversion, they might think it's kind of cheesy. but if you go to the range with one like it came right out of Stalingrad, you tend to get a lot more compliments

Who goes to the range worrying about what other people might think?:rolleyes:

mp25ds4
August 17, 2009, 12:44 PM
another option is mojo sights, i havnt read a review yet thats said they werent good

http://www.mojosights.com/

Funeralfog
August 17, 2009, 04:15 PM
you're going to have to drill holes in your rifle unless you buy the sniper model

srt 10 jimbo
August 24, 2009, 07:20 AM
I just had laser surgery, problem solved. I got a 91/30 too and at 50 yards I can pretty much drill on or right around the bullseye now. The only Mod I did to the gun was the rubber butt stock.:)

Avenger
August 24, 2009, 06:57 PM
Darrell Harrison makes a scout mount that I would HIGHLY recommend. It doesn't permanently alter the rifle, fit and finish are excellent, and the price is GREAT. I had one on my M44, and loved it.

http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/forum/view/id/116

carguychris
August 25, 2009, 10:53 AM
A few random thoughts about scoping a Mosin, other than what's already mentioned...

To add an original PU scope mount, holes must be drilled in the LH side of the receiver, and a relief channel must be cut in the LH side of the stock. Some 91/30s known as "ex-snipers" have the required holes already drilled in the receiver, but these rifles are somewhat uncommon, and most importers are now savvy enough to recognize them and charge extra. :rolleyes:

A PU scope does not adjust like modern Western scope; when you adjust its zero, the FOV remains fixed and the crosshairs move. Yes, this means that you may wind up with way-off-center crosshairs if the mount is a bit crooked. :(

The straight bolt handle won't clear the high-mounted PU scope. The reason for the high offset scope position on Eastern Bloc sniper rifles is to allow the iron sights to be used as backup with the scope still mounted, not to clear the bolt handle.

The bolt handle on a Mosin-Nagant is attached to the bolt body, which has no effect whatsoever on headspace because it's a totally separate from the bolt head. If you want a turned-down bolt handle and have a numbers-matching straight-handle bolt body, I recommend replacing the entire bolt body rather than hacking your original one.

The common ATI Mosin-Nagant scope mount kit includes a bolt-on turned-down bolt handle, but installing it requires hacking off the original bolt handle, grinding the surface flat, and drilling two precisely-located holes. I would not recommend trying this unless you have access to power cutting tools and a drill press because the steel is hard enough to make this task a major PITA if you use hand tools. Buying an aftermarket bolt body is far easier.

Speaking of aftermarket bolt bodies, the original Soviet turned-down-handle bolt body requires a vertical relief cut in the stock. I'd recommend using an aftermarket bolt body that doesn't require a relief cut; they're usually cheaper anyway. :)