Pietta 1851 Wedge Removal

[ClemBert]

So as an engineer I have to ask this question....what kind of :mad::mad: jack azz :mad::mad: designs a firearm to use a wedge to hold a barrel onto a frame?...oh yeah, that'd be Samuel Colt. Sammy must have gone to the same school as those guys who design cars where you have to remove one of the motor mounts and jack the car engine up to remove the oil filter.

Okay, next question. Anyone have any suggestions for removing said wedge out of a Pietta 1851 Navy revolver? So I turned a copper penny on is side and held it with a pair of plyers on the right side of the wedge and beat on it until the copper penny was destroyed. Wedge didn't even budge. The wedge is sitting almost flush on the right hand side. Maybe I just need to shoot the crap outta it one day with the largest charges I can fit in the cylinder...maybe that'll loosen things up.

So far I'm a big fan of the Remington 1858 and the ROA. Sammy can bite me on the azz for now. :eek:

[Hawg Haggen]

Use a penny made before 1982 or get a brass punch.

[ClemBert]

Did you leave out the part where I'm supposed to wait until a full moon then stand on my head and bark while beating on the penny? :p

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/Pictures006-1.jpg

[Hawg Haggen]

Did you leave out the part where I'm supposed to wait until a full moon then stand on my head and bark while beating on the penny?

Dang, I knew I was forgetting something.:p I figured it was a zinc penny you were using. Might try heating it in boiling water first or get a brass punch. If you're careful and have a piece of scrap leather you might try a steel punch. Wedges are pretty tight in a new gun. However the more they're removed the easier it gets.

[madcratebuilder]

So I turned a copper penny on is side and held it with a pair of plyers on the right side of the wedge and beat on it until the copper penny was destroyed.

Copper penny=incorrect tool.


You need to use a 1/8 inch brass punch and a 12-14 oz ball peen hammer. Support the revolver on the left side between two pieces of wood(2X4). Give it a good whack. Using a penny is trying to impact all the energy in to a very small area, that's why it bends. A 1/8 inch punch is .125 inch, most 51 wedges are .135-.140 inch. By using a brass punch you well not damage the surface of the gun or wedge.

[arcticap]

I recently removed a really tight 1860 wedge by wacking it with a large, cheap rubber mallet. Using a lot of force it finally moved, then I used some wood to punch it out the rest of the way.
The last owner must have forced it in too far and it was deformed.

[Hawg Haggen]

Copper penny=incorrect tool.

That's true but it usually works. Most everybody can come up with a penny. Not everybody can come up with a brass punch.

[ClemBert]

Yeah, it shouldn't have to take a brass punch (something I don't have) to remove the wedge. A penny should work fine if it weren't for that big Italian gorilla at the Pietta factory.

[jcowan]

My favorite wedge removal tool is chopsticks. I cut them in half and have 2 rectangular punches and 2 round punches with rectangular tops. Most chinese restaurants have cheap soft wood chopsticks but the sushi place a few miles away has the good hard wood ones. I use the rectangular punch for the wedge. Sometimes if it is really stuck the punch will flatten out on the end, but I like sushi so I have an unlimited free supply.

[madcratebuilder]

Using a copper penny on a wedge is akin to using a pair of pliers to tighten a hex head bolt. If it works for you, go for it:)
I hope your not using an old Craftsman screwdriver to loosen screws.


My favorite wedge removal tool is chopsticks.

I use them for seating caps, I'll have to try one on a tight wedge next time I'm in the field.

[olmontanaboy]

chopsticks.

Confucius say: chopsticks = a tool for getting chop-suey from plate to chops.
Not for wedge that hold barrel on gun:D

[jcowan]

I use the round part for seating caps also.

[Hawg Haggen]

Using a copper penny on a wedge is akin to using a pair of pliers to tighten a hex head bolt. If it works for you, go for it

I know it's not proper but it usually works when folks have problems getting a wedge out. Like I said before everybody has a penny laying around. Not everybody has a brass punch when they need one.


I hope your not using an old Craftsman screwdriver to loosen screws.

Course not, I've got a Swiss Army knife.:D:p:rolleyes:

[ClemBert]

I hope your not using an old Craftsman screwdriver to loosen screws.

Naw, I use a penny for slotted screws. :rolleyes:

[ClemBert]

So...I should use a brass punch huh? Well I don't have one and I looked at Ace Hardware, Home Depot, Lowes, AutoZone, etc. for one. No one carries one. Yeah, I can order one online but then I have to wait 7 to 9 business days for it to show up. I know...I'll just make one.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/BrassPunch001.jpg
This is going to be a 50 cent version of a brass punch made from a 3" #14 solid brass screw.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/BrassPunch005.jpg
I'll just take a file and file the end of that baby down to 1/8th inch.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/BrassPunch013.jpg
Check it out...this is gonna work great. It has a huge head to hit it with. Even I can't miss this sucker with a hammer. And, instead a a knurled area to hold it with the remaining screw threads make it easy to grip. That wedge is gonna scream "uncle" when I introduce it to my new brass punch.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/WedgeRemoval017.jpg
:mad: NOT!!!!!! :mad:

Argh!!! Does anyone have any dynamite laying around???? I know...I'll call 911 and ask them if I can borrow their "Jaws of Life".

p.s. Mr. Colt you can still bite my azz...as can you Mr. Pietta gorilla man.

SCORE: Gorilla 2 ClemBert 0

[crstrode]

Most any hardware store has plain brass rod.

Very handy stuff for C&B revolvers.

I have a short one- about 2-inches long that I use exclusively for tapping out the wedges.

Yes, Guido the Wedge Killer still works at the Pietta factory. Last revolver I bought new in the box took several whacks with a ball peen hammer and my short 1/8 inch diameter brass rod.

Madecratebuilder is correct a brass punch will work every time.

I also keep a 9-inch long piece of the rod in my field kit. Great as a patch pusher and a ball poker-outer.

A smaller diameter rod is great for poking balls outta the cylinder now and then.

[ClemBert]

My home made brass punch is actually a lot heavier duty than a 1/8th inch brass rod. See the pic...the tip on that thing is 1/8th inch (0.125). The place where it bent is 0.200 inches. Your 1/8th rod would have given out much sooner than mine.

[ClemBert]

Okay...now time to break out the heavy artillery, the Jaws of Life. Well, maybe not the Jaws of Life but a big azz vice. Yeah, that's the ticket. We are going to show that wedge who is boss. We are going to press on that sucker till it bleeds and screams "uncle".

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/WedgeRemoval015.jpg
First we cut a 6" chunk of 2x4 and drill a hole where the left side of the wedge protrudes.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/WedgeRemoval008.jpg
Ah, a perfect fit. Plenty of room for that wedge to slide out without touching the vice.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/WedgeRemoval002.jpg
Now this time we aren't gonna play paddy cake. We are serious about showing that wedge we rule. This time we take the upper 0.850 portion of that brass screw where the neck has a 1/4" thickness to it.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/WedgeRemoval006.jpg
Then with a file we angle the end so we have a nice wide flat area with thickness of 1/8th inch.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/WedgeRemoval012.jpg
Time for assembling "The Wedge Killer". Wood block with wedge hole on left. 1851 in the middle. Then the new heavy duty punch on the right side. All sitting nicely in position in the vice.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/WedgeRemoval014.jpg
A view from the bottom. Anyone care to wager who wins this battle? ClemBert or the Gorilla?

[olmontanaboy]

I'm bettin on the gorilla,,,,,,,but rootin for Clembert :D

[EmptyHull]

Clem you da man!:D I use the back end of a large wooden knife handle. Tim

[Noz]

Keep us posted. I've never heard of a wedge being that tight. Usually a small rubber faced hammer is enough.

[olmontanaboy]

Keep us posted. I've never heard of a wedge being that tight. Usually a small rubber faced hammer is enough.

I had the very same problem with a Pietta 1860 army that I bought from Cabelas. This one I picked out in person, it was the nicest of three they had in stock. I checked it out pretty good, or so I thought, I did not pull the wedge in the store. A few days later I got around to degreasing and disacembling the gun, I tried everything to get the wedge out. I finally made A brass drift concave to fit the wedge face.I placed the barrel on a hard non marring surface with a space to allow the wedge to go into, with someone holding the pistol in place I smacked the sucker with 3lb. mall repeatdly to no advail. I knew if I kept at this I would have damaged the pistol and decided that if the wedge was in this tight their might be some alinement problems with the arbor or the wedge slot might not be cut corectly, I will never know, I returned the army to Cabelas and told them why. I bought a Pietta Rem 58 with the refund. I have a 61 Pietta Navy from Cabelas that's perfect and the wedge came out with a sharp rap from a light hardwood hammer:)

[MacGille]

I had to use a form fitting block, a steel pusher, and a 2 ton arbor press. Came right out.

[olmontanaboy]

Came right out.

LOL, Guess I didn't use a big enough hammer :D

[ClemBert]

So...who bet on the Gorilla and who bet on ClemBert?

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/WedgeRemoval020.jpg
Does this picture give up the answer?

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/WedgeRemoval024.jpg
ClemBert tips his hat to the Pietta Gorilla. He won hands down. ClemBert and his vice were no match for the Gorilla. The wedge didn't budge a micrometer and ClemBert's 1/4" brass wedge killing punch bent under the pressure. The 2x4 block started to crush under the pressure so I stopped.

Gorilla 3 ClemBert 0

[ClemBert]

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/Colt1851010.jpg

I was satisfied with this particular 1851's appearance. The cylinder did not free spin easily but it did turn easily enough when cocking the hammer. There was no binding against the barrel. However, this puppy is going back to Cabelas. I will ask them to exchange it. I would have liked to pump a few magnum loads through it to loosen it up a bit. That may have done the trick to loosen the wedge. But if I shoot it then I own it so I don't feel like risking it. With Cabelas generous return/exchange policy I think the safe play is to switch it out.

[robhof]

Have you tried presoaking with penetrating oil? If you bought it new, you might want to try the dealer. If not, careful heating of the frame with a butane torch around the wedge and touching an ice cube to the wedge, just before tapping it. The heat expansion and cold shrinkage should give a few thousandth of space. An uncle of mine, who used to do his own smithing, used this tenique to remove barrels on revolvers to change out. This was his last resort method when a long 2x4 wouldn't break the barrel free. He set it up in a padded vice and carefully heated the frame around the barrel and dribbled some water on the barrel, then turned the frame with the board, always worked for him.

[ClemBert]

Naw, no need to go through that. This is a new revolver from Cabelas and I'll just do an exchange. If this was bought "as is" or from the bargain bin then I'd just go shoot the poop outta it to loosen it up. Since it is new there is no need for the heroic approach.

[arcticap]

I really thought that the vice would work.
You did make a nice set up to try that method out with too.
If you could secure the gun in the vice and use 2 boards with holes to provide access to the wedge, I really think that a dead blow hammer and a punch would do the trick.
A hard wood punch might even work.
It's not about the strength of the punch, but the transfer of energy to the wedge.
And they also make plastic dead blow hammers instead of the traditional brass or bronze dead blow, and leather could be used to protect the wedge along with using a steel punch if necessary.
I would probably borrow a friend's dead blow hammer because I know someone who has one that's heavyweight bronze.
Cabela's would take it back if the effort failed anyway. But of course no one would blame you if didn't want to try that route. Maybe being so difficult to remove is just a "bad sign"! :rolleyes:

[olmontanaboy]

So...who bet on the Gorilla and who bet on ClemBert?

Sorry man, If I had not gone through this very thing myself I woulda bet on you and the vise. I would not have beleived I could not remove the wedge from my army with the force I applied with that maul. I'm thinking they must use the wedege to "FORCE" misalinged parts in some revolvers. My thinking is like yours "this aint right" cant be good for the pistol all that hammering. Get a new one:)

[ClemBert]

I really think that a dead blow hammer and a punch would do the trick.


I did use a dead blow hammer and a punch. It bent the punch. The punch I made was pretty beefy. Beside, that 1/4" thick brass wedge killer bent under extreme force. That vice I have is much larger than what your average homeowner owns. I was using two hands to crank on it and I'm a 6'3" gorilla myself. ;)


Maybe being so difficult to remove is just a "bad sign"!

Exactly...its bad mojo to have a problem like this before the first shot.

I'm thinking they must use the wedege to "FORCE" misalinged parts in some revolvers. My thinking is like yours "this aint right" cant be good for the pistol all that hammering. Get a new one.

I gave it the ol' college try three times and struck out. I would have liked to have loosened her up with some big loads but in the end it didn't make sense to end up owning it just for that experiment. This thing will probably end up in the bargain bin for $150 bucks. Hell, if Cabelas told me to keep it for $150 I would. But why mess with it if I can get one without the problems. Its already been dropped of at UPS. Hope the next one is a keeper!

Hopefully the new owner is a member here. Can't wait to read about the wedge from hell from some other sucker...ahem, I mean soot lord.

[arcticap]

Maybe we should all email Pietta and tell them to start putting grease on their wedges and in the arbor/barrel slots.
How much would that cost them, about a 1/2 cent? :D

[ClemBert]

Maybe we should all email Pietta and tell them to start putting grease on their wedges and in the arbor slots.
How much would that cost them, about a 1/2 cent?

How 'bout we suggest they have the gorilla lay off the spinach?

[Smokin_Gun]

Did you try knockin' down or sqeezin' the tip of the wedge spring downward to clear the barrel slot...it may have too steep a ramp on it to clear the barrel slot. Jus' a thought...

[ClemBert]

Did you try knockin' down or sqeezin' the tip of the wedge spring downward to clear the barrel slot...it may have too steep a ramp on it to clear the barrel slot. Jus' a thought...

Yup, I sure did. I would say I did everything within reason to get that sucker out. My goal was to get the wedge out without marring the wedge or the barrel. I did pretty much remove the bluing on the wedge and replace it with a layer of brass though. I'm sure I could get it out (with a steel punch and a 5 lb sledge) but I really didn't want to end up with a brand new dinged up revolver.

[robhof]

With all you've done, I'd definitely opt for the exchange and have them test the wedge on the new one before sending, to be sure you don't have to start from square one again.

[Deadguy]

Mr. Pietta himself hangs out on the cascity.com forums (goes by the name Alchemista). Perhaps if a few of use went there and voiced our "experiences" with the gorilla that overtightens screws, nipples, and barrel wedges, Mr. Pietta might do something about it.

[sundance44s]

Why not do it the easy way .. spend 3.99 order one of these , I`ve been useing one for years ...and it still works ...http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(xwrzsp45ni3befif0kd5sf55))/categories/partDetail.aspx?catId=1&subId=19&styleId=1061&partNum=TOOL-KEY-B
getting the wedge out of a Colt can be as hard as you want it to be .

[enyaw]

Clembert, I'm a cap&baller gunsmith. Fix guns for people from all over. Fixed the worst of the worst. Never had wedges stuck like a Pietta unless someone did some really weird thing to get it stuck.
Piettas are very difficult to get the wedges out of when new. I had the same problem with new guns sent to me to accurize and fix the point of aim to the point of impact.
I get all the wedges out. I'm not an engineer even though I studied Civil engineering in college most of three years. Interesting but off track for the post right? Sorry Bud.
Anyway from years of "fixing everything imaginable" I've picked up certain mechanical attributes or added to my mechanical aptitude. :rolleyes:
Sometimes the Piettas have the rear of the arbor slot "even" with the rear barrel slots. That lets the wedge get stuck in the arbor slot when it contacts fore and aft in the arbor. (once the wedge is out you have to file the rear arbor slot away some so the wedge can contact only the barrel slots at the rear of the wedge. The wedge can't function when the rear of the arbor slot contacts the wedge)
It does come loose though. Even when the wedge is installed mechanically correct but too tight. I think Pietta may kinda form fit the wedges for the perfect fit. ie Seat the wedge in the corresponding parts by force. Also the hook on the wedge spring (like Smoking Gun mentioned) that had ,pretty much, a 90 degree bend to its end grabs the barrel and gets caught by the spring tip hooking on the barrel. Know what I mean? When the wedge finally comes out that edge on the barrels slot where the wedge hook "was" will be re-shaped with a relief that's angled so the wedge spring can let the wedge out. The spring relieves the barrel there the first time the wedge comes out. That relief will be silver since the bluing is off there now. Can't see it unless you take the wedge out and look under that edge close. Anyway before wacking the wedge you should depress the tip of the wedge spring to " eyeball" whether or not there will be space for the spring to depress enough to enter the barrel slot. There are times,believe it or not that the wedge spring can't depress enough to clear the top of that barrel slot to get out. Don't ask me how they force it in that way.
Anyway....it takes a substantial transfer of energy to knock the wedge loose. With the gun on it's side on a board with more wood to level the barrel the chance of arbor damage(loosen the arbor) is minimized substantially.
Put the gun on wood with some wood under the barrel to make the gun level on it's side. Something softer than wood under the grip. Padded wood would work like to fold a shop rag to pad the wood under the grip. Use something substantial as a punch. Why a punch? If you wack the tip of the spring hard enough it may break the wedge spring. Gotta not hit the spring if it's possible so hitting the wedge with a hammer is bad(hitting the part of the wedge that sticks out of the barrel slot).
If the wedge is flush with the barrel then it doesn't matter whether you hit the spring or not. Only when the spring hooks the outside of the barrel slot does it matter.Something substancial? Steel punch made from a screw driver shank with the wood or plastic handle removed. Use a steel hammer with some weight to hit the punch. It is a good idea to take a larger size screwdriver and grind the tip off some to widen the tip just almost as thick as the wedge under the spring. It doesn't matter if the screw driver is much thicker than the slot. Only the tip of the widened screw driver enters at the first movement of the wedge. You make sure some of the tip of the screw driver punch is thin enough to enter the wedge slot a little,like a quater inch or a little less at the first movement of the wedge. Make sure you try to controp the screw driver punch so you don't drive it too far in the wedge slot and deform the edges of the slot. Side note.....remove the wood or plastic from the screw driver shank so you are hitting steel to steel.
Not too long of a screw driver though since the length of the screw driver shank absorbs energy and can flex under the blows of the hammer. Make the screw driver punch long enough to get your whole hand wrapped around it for a steady support. Wearing a leather glove absorbs some of the sting of holding the steel as it's hit with steel to move steel. The vibration and the energy wasted from the shank flexing goes into your hand so don't leave the shank too much longer than it needs to be to wrap your hand around it. You wrap you hand around the shank of the punch so the punch is supported and gets the energy transfered. The steel punch transfers energy better than brass. Brass for the initial hits to the wedge softens the transfer of energy some and all the energy has to transfer. Steel to steel to the steel wedge for the fist blows usually. It doesn't hurt a thing to try brass first though. The wedge may move with a brass punch.
Use a brass punch with the end filed flat so it can enter the wedge slot (and not hit the spring tip)just a little . Use a brass punch that's at least 3/8ths inch diameter. Even a 1/2 inch diameter punch is good since the tip is filed flat for maybe a 1/4th inch. Don't make the flat part too long for the first blows to the wedge.
If the brass fails and the steel is needed then you watch the wedge and the screw driver shank punch. When the wedge moves a little and the tapered screw driver is just about getting too thick for the slot then go to a punch or a thinner piece of steel(that fits into the slot and is almost as thick as the wedge and almost as wide since the bigger the punch the more energy transferred). Take the sharp edges off the edges of that piece of steel being used for a punch now (and file a notch so it doesn't hit the spring tip)that enters the wedge slot. Round off the edges just a tad so they won't catch the edge of the arbor slot or the edge of the barrel slot as the piece of steel enters and goes thru the wedge slot.
In the beginning lay the big screw driver punch "square" on the edge of the wedge. You probably should file a notch so it doesn't hit the spring tip but you can have the end of the driver tip small enough to go under the spring tip.
Make sure it's(screw driver shank punch) positioned so it isn't on the barrel anywhere. With the heavy hammer wack the punch and transfer the energy to the wedge. The punch needs to be wide in diameter (3/8ths) and the hammer a ball peen with some weight. A carpenters hammer will work too.
Once the wedge moves a little you can try brass or nylon drift punches. It may still need the steel piece you made that can enter the wedge slot though. May need that to go all the way thru to the other side.
Make sure that piece of steel is not as wide as the wedge nor as thick or you may get the wedge out and find the slab steel punch is now stuck in there.:eek:
Laying the punches square on the wedge tip minimizes any deformation of the wedge tip. If there is a little deformation don't fret. Wedges are made for hitting them. They get dinged up some. A new wedge costs a good bit anymore(too much in my book) but it's not too costly to get a new one if you need a pristine gun.
Anyway "Clembert" your punch used was too small to transfer enough energy. You need stiff punches for the first blows for the first small movement of the wedge.
There are times that the wedge can shoot out with some force when it breaks loose and if there's room for it to do so it will fly a ways.
When the gun is layed out like I suggested once the wedge moves a little and you may move the wedge easier then take out the wood that was under the wedge with a little space between. It was just there to make sure the wedge didn't move far enough for the screwdriver punch to enter the slot and ,since the screw driver is thicker than the wedge slot, deform the barrels slot some. Once the wedge moves enough make sure there's room for it too get all the way out.
You know, pick it up and rest it on your legs sitting in the chair once the wedge gets easier to move. Once the wedge moves some it gets easier to wack all the way out.
Keep the large screw driver punch and the piece of steel that can go thru the wedge slot to get the wedge all the way out with your shooting stuff you take with you to go shoot. You may want to take the barrel off your gun for some reason while at the range. Once the wedge has been in and out of the slot enough it pops right out with a lesser blow than the first time.
I went thru the trouble to type this as a helper for anyone removing a new Pietta wedge that's stuck. Most of the new Piettas come with stuck wedges so chances are that if you return the gun because of a stuck wedge the exchange gun will have a stuck wedge also.
Work carefully when removing a stuck wedge. You don't want to marr or scratch your barrel and if you do it properly you won't.

[sundance44s]

I`ll have to differ on enyaw`s advice on useing a steel punch ......if you hit it hard enough to move the wedge the steel punch will slip off the wedge and put a nasty looking scratch on the barrel ...I have never had one come out easy .......it will take a good wack with a fairly heavy hammer (I use a 21 oz frameing hammer ) and the brass punch shown in my last post ....................the brass punch will not leave any uglys on the barrel when it slips yet it is heavy enough to do the job with a good hammer .
Save the steel punch for something besides gun smithing .

[Hawg Haggen]

I wouldn't want to use steel either. I might would if I had to but I wouldn't want to. My 60 Colt (Pietta) had a wedge that was a little hard to remove but nothing a couple of sharp raps with a plastic screwdriver handle didn't cure.

[breed]

i would like to have the BT and TG off that gun.

[breed]

it looks plated to me.

[Smokin' gun]

Here is how to handle wedge removal on a pristine gun you just bought. Lay the gun on it's left side on blocks of wood and take a screw driver that's big enough but not too big for the wedge channel and knock it down with any kind of hammer. grease it. After shootin it rounds per day or a week or so - the wedge spring will finally break and you can just about pop it in or out w/ your palm. The plastic handle of your screw driver is a good tool for popping it in or out and tigtining barrel to cylinder. While all this is going on; order a spare wedge..so when you want to display or sell it--- your gun will still look pristine new again as long as you didn't bugger up the barrel. --:)

[sundance44s]

I just noticed this purdy pistola is on sale at Cabelas for 239.00 ....was 299.00 I may have to order one for myself ...damn the wedge .:D

[EmptyHull]

Clem, let us know how the new one does. I was bettin on you though!:D Tim

[enyaw]

Sundance...the brass punch you posted a pic of....blade .083 in thick?
The stuck Pietta wedges I've encountered would ruin that punch first time out of the gate.:eek: You'll run across one of the "tough ones" to get out someday.....the steel punches you save for other things besides gunsmithing.....remember where you put them.:D
Anyone that isn't well versed in tool use....it would be best to take the gun back and exchange it before you might marr it if the wedge is stuck hard enough that a nylon punch can't get it out.
Anywhooo....I like that brass punch posted in Sundances link. I'll get one. The punch Smoking Gun made for me years ago from space age nylon is gettin a little ragged.
Sundance....you have a good point about steel can slip and marr the barrel. I wouldn't recommend a novice with the tools to use one. It is hard on the nerves if a barrel of a new gun gets scratched up.:o Especially if you get mad and beat the dang thing into a flat piece of scrap steel.:eek: That is how those really stuck wedges can make a guy feel. Mad Dog crazy mean and angry. That's not nice.
Better to get a gunsmith to get the wedge out or send the gun back where it came from.
If I could think of anything else to say I could put some more of those funny little faces in my post.:rolleyes: Heck, may as well have some fun here.
Now take heed folks....steel punches can slip and can scratch the barrel. A coupla layers like three or four will help protect the area around the wedge some. Not completely though. Later Pards.:D

[sundance44s]

Hey ya Wayner ...I didn`t know that was you ...no doubt if done with much care a steel punch could be used ...but for me not worth a slip on a purdy Italian made pistol ....evpecially this one with the engraveing ....
I`m not sure how thick the brass punch is I posted but I have wacked the hell out of it and only mushroomed the flat tip a little ..it has never bent .
You may already have one of these lyman hammers , nylon on one side brass on the other and the heads are replaceable ...these work well too if the wedge isn`t stuck too bad .http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=192310
The brass drift punch I posted earlyer works better with a heavy hammer for wedges that are factory new stuck .

[enyaw]

Sundance, when you convert yer Sharps to the Gremmer model that looks like a Hawken/Sharps with two wedge keys holding the new forearm with the nosecap that punch will come in handy.:D
How'd you know this was me,Wayner? :eek:
The Track of the Wolf link had the size of that punch. It must be the harder type brass. The yellow versas the white brass?
Yer right about that purty gun and the steel punch slippin on that engraved barrel. That would be crying time to put a big scratch on it. I have one just like it. Nice looking and nice shooter too. Doesn't shoot real high(niether of my Pietta Navy Colts do) and shoots straight. I'd hate to hit the engraving with a steel punch.
That tells the story. Drive the stuck wedges out carefully or run the risk of damage. Pietta should fit those wedges and then loosen them back up so people don't damage their new guns.
I don't understand the reasoning behind Piettas wedges being stuck. They must kinda form fit to seat them in conjunction to the bottomed arbors(which I love on those Peittas...the bottomed arbors)but why leave them stuck? Those stuck wedges are difficult for almost everyone to get out and.....I've never heard too many say they are not difficult.
Even if a person had one of those presses for pressing bearings and all it would be a chore to set up a jig or whatever to press out the stuck wedges.
I've just had to remove shrink fit collars and pressed fit bearings from my antique tractors rear axles. I drilled and chiseled the shrink fit collars and took a burning torch to the pressed fit bearings.:mad: Man, they were almost as hard to get off as a stuck Pietta wedges.:eek:
Your recomendation about a heavier hammer is the main stay of getting off a really stuck Pietta wedge. I'll tellya those wedges should be remedied at the factory before they are put in the boxes to ship to the US. Would someone please tell Alchimista to get his shop foreman to get that done???;) Those Piettas are too nice to risk damage right off the bat because of a stuck wedge.
Anywhoooo....yous the man Sundance....with good advise.:cool:

[sundance44s]

Wayner , Shadow , lucky guess on my part I think I can pick your and Smokinguns posting out ......seen alot of them .
That brass drift is made out of a harder probally American made brass , ( may have a little more bronze ) or something in it .....but it won`t bend nor will it scratch the Italian made steel ...so far anyway . I have mushroomed the tip some what on mine , I need to dress it up before I use it again ...but it has seen alot of service .
I use the plastic head on my little lyman hammer once I get one broke free , and for the Hawken type barrel wedges ...........but no doubt a new Colt made by Pietta has a wedge installed by a guy with issues ...I think he must be the same guy tightening the screws on the Pietta Remingtons too .
For no other reason I always recomend some one start their black powder pistol experience with a new Remington , instead of the 1851 Navy .
See ya back at the camp fire at Voy Forum ..... (I`ll have to push Dick Dork out of my seat when I get back ) ...;)

[MacGille]

Guys, guys, guys, Don't beat on a good gun with a hammer. Use a press, you can get one at harbor freight for $49.00. Use a steel pusher block the gun carefully so it doesn't slip and push the wedge out. Never beat on a gun again. Promise.

[Smokin_Gun]

I'm not so sure a 19th Century Cowboy, Soldier, Farmer, or Indian carried a Vise with them ... the Colt wedge configuration was made to be tapped or hit out if need be . The mallet, hammer, piece if campfire wood, tree branch is how tha wedge was meant to be removed ... If you don't believe it, look it up on the internet... you won't see a vise listed.
Sorry but I have to disagree with you...
One good smack wil remove most any stubborn wedge.
But you have to know how to use a mallet.
It ain't Rocket Science :O)

[Smokin' gun]

OK--I guess y'all think I'm dumb and crazy. Maybe you're right. My nightmare was removing the wedge from a 1851 Navy Pietta "Lawmaker" I used a nylon hammer--cloth---brass bolt----------To no success. It too only went flush to the barrel. After a day when my temper and nerves subsided---tried it again. Now I was mad! I did what I said in an earlier posting - just got a big ax screwdriver and hammer and knocked it out. The wedge went back in after greasing it and shot 12 rounds. It again was hard to remove. Finally after several weeks the spring broke off and the wedge is easy. Of course the wedge looks like hell. I think the wedge spring is there to catch on the screw so it doesn't fall completely out. It serves another purpose I 'm sure but not big time major! keeps it tight in the slot? Sam Colt would know that answer. I bet most of the cowboys and calvery soldiers had wedges w/broken off springs. The Uberties don't have wedges this tight. I have 2 more Lawmakers and don't know what to do w/um since I can't break um down for a customer. 36 c are easier than 44c on wedges and other parts;in my opinion.

[Smokin' gun]

Wait--I think they might be called "Lawman"

[Smokin_Gun]

Billy, once you smack the wedge flush to the barrel you make a tool like Enyaw mention I made him a few years ago, and like the Brass tool that Sundance posted. You had the right idea and did it right just use a strong but softer than a screwdiver material.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/Smokin_Gun/09-11-08_2248.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/Smokin_Gun/09-11-08_2247.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/Smokin_Gun/09-11-08_2246.jpg

I still am usin' the one in the Pic ... ya gotta remember I'm a Remington Man that likes Colts too :O)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/Smokin_Gun/FireShow.jpg

[EmptyHull]

That last pic is awesome. My first time to shoot a cap n ball was New Years night a long time ago and the feel, flash and smell was why I had to get one. That night I was shooting a Colt AR-15 Sporter. Not as exciting as the BP pistol. Tim

[Smokin' gun]

Great pics Smokin Gun!!!!!!

That brass framer is what everyone here in SC that decides to soot BP wants--no matter what anybody says bad about them they don't care. the most economical pietta brass frame 44 is what they shoot or your Remington 1858.

I still don't know what to do w/ those "Lawman" steel frame 44's that don't have great action atall. I was thinking about ordering a pietta box that fits 2--put in a flask and accessories and offer them like that. Do you think that's a good idea? Maybe $475 for the whole setw/accesso.. Or $400 or $500---dam I don't know about these boys. Suggested retail price on them are $249 a piece from Elletts. I don't like em. But they look good and got "Pallidin" Black grips. Anyone out there got one?

[Smokin_Gun]

Billy that 1862 Navy Conversion ... let me know in a PM what you wanna get out of that ... I have no money but if it's a .38Colt and shoots BP loads I may have trading capabilites that you could make money on sellin'...
Jus' food for thought.

[ClemBert]

Smokin Gun...that last picture rocks!!!! :D

[Smokin' gun]

I got me a big ole heavy iron chisle in one hand and a claw hammer in the other---that wedge is coming out of that LAWMAN---get a posse real quick and stop me. But yu betta hurry:)

[Hawg Haggen]

That claw hammer ain't big enough. You need at least a 2 1/2 lb. shop hammer.:p

[Smokin' gun]

Hawg I wasn't thinkin clear. You're right. That wedge ain't budged. A claw hammer won't get that job done but turn a thumb nail blue. OUCH---but it'll come out tommorrow. I got a giood friend that sells industrial power tools for big time jobs. He'll get that dang thing out!

[ClemBert]

So the replacement 1851 showed up today. Guess what....same problem. That wedge ain't gonna move. http://www.thehighroad.org/images/smilies/cussing2.gif Big surprise, right!

I'm just gonna shoot the living crap outta that thing with the biggest loads I can force in it. That outta loosed her up a bit. The wedge will probably just drop in my lap then....hehehehe..... http://www.thehighroad.org/images/smilies/fce32f95.gif

p.s. Mr. Samuel Colt can still bite me on the arse as well as that gorilla at the Pietta factory.

[olmontanaboy]

So the replacement 1851 showed up today. Guess what....same problem.
Aw man that bites. Check the serial # and make sure it aint the same one:(
Good luck.

[ClemBert]

Aw man that bites. Check the serial # and make sure it aint the same one
Good luck.

LOL! First thing I did was check the serial number. The one they sent me is 12 units past the first problem one. Probably both of them were beat on by the Pietta gorilla on the same day when they didn't feed him enough bananas.

No problemo though. I was very tempted to shoot the crap outta the first one to loosen it up. Now that the replacement is the same as the first I won't have a problem with that procedure. And if that wedge still doesn't want to come out I will introduce Mr. Wedge to Mr. Steel Chisel. :mad:

[robhof]

Did you notify them of the problem with the 1st gun? If so; their customer service dept is seriously in need of an adjustment. Man that's a real bummer. Ihope the shooting works, at least it'll get out the frustration. I always feel better after a range session, it got me through 20 years in the USAF.

[ClemBert]

Did you notify them of the problem with the 1st gun? If so; their customer service dept is seriously in need of an adjustment. Man that's a real bummer. Ihope the shooting works, at least it'll get out the frustration. I always feel better after a range session, it got me through 20 years in the USAF.

I think this is a well documented problem with new Pietta products. I did inform Cabella's customer service why the first one was being returned. As a courtesy they sent me a new replacement before they had a chance to inspect the original. This is a Pietta problem that Cabella's should have a discussion with Pietta to address it. My next purchase will most likely be a Uberti product. I do like this particular 1851. The finish isn't as good as I've seen on Uberti's but it is reasonable given the $229 paid for it....if that wedge just popped out I'd give it a 9 out of 10 on fit and finish.

[Hawg Haggen]

I bought a new Pietta 60 Colt last year. A good rap with a plastic handled screwdriver popped it right out.

[robhof]

Hasve you thought about using a gear puller? Pad the contact areas well and place center on wedge and tighten. They can be found in varying sizes at auto parts stores and they may even loan the tool. They can be tightened and left for awhile then additional pressure added for particularly stubborn gears or in your case wedge.

[hillbille]

maybe you should drive it the other way..:D seriously use a good solid steel punch if it mars the wedge just buy a new one, sounds like you will need it anyway.

[Hawg Haggen]

I've got a Wilton vice with 6 1/2 inch jaws and a four foot cheater pipe if you need any assistance.:D

[ClemBert]

sundance44s

Why not do it the easy way .. spend 3.99 order one of these , I`ve been useing one for years ...and it still works ...http://www.trackofthewolf.com/%28S%2814rk5dmivmlmba55xwosc245%29%29/categories/partDetail.aspx?catId=1&subId=19&styleId=1061&partNum=TOOL-KEY-B
getting the wedge out of a Colt can be as hard as you want it to be .

Well, I took your suggestion to do it "the easy way". I bought two of those fancy schmansee brass punches from Track of the Wolf. I thought I'd share my findings:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/Wedge002.jpg

Question: Remind me again...how hard am I trying to make this? ;)

Gorilla 4 ClemBert 0

p.s. This punch bent on the wedge of the replacement 1851 I received since the first 1851 obviously had the wedge in too tight. :(

[olmontanaboy]

Have you managed to get the wedege out yet?

[ClemBert]

Nope...the Pietta gorilla is kicking my arse. My last attempt was a few days ago with the fancy brass punch pictured above. I only went through that process because someone suggested I was going about this the hard way and the easy way was to use the appropriate punch made for the job.

I get the feeling from a lot of people on here they don't have an appreciation for how stuck the wedge is on both of those Pietta 1851's. Their assumption is that either I'm doing it wrong or using the wrong tools. Quite honestly, tapping it with a penny should have popped it right out.

I've officially given up on it until after I load and shoot it with max loads of 777. Hopefully that will loosed it up. I had hoped to clean it before shooting it for the first time. I'll give an update when shooting day passes. It could be a while since my shooting range is closed right now.

[crstrode]

A vise or a gear puller or any other such thing is the wrong way to go.

A well placed blow with a hammer imparts thousands of pounds more force than from a vise.

Force = mass X acceleration.

The vise has verrrry slowwww acceleration, hence no matter how hard you twist the handle, the hammer will beat it (literally) every time. :-)

[Hawg Haggen]

A vise or a gear puller or any other such thing is the wrong way to go.

A well placed blow with a hammer imparts thousands of pounds more force than from a vise.

Force = mass X acceleration.

The vise has verrrry slowwww acceleration, hence no matter how hard you twist the handle, the hammer will beat it (literally) every time. :-)



But a vice can do jobs a hammer often can't. Or do them neater and with less damage.

[Smokin_Gun]

ClemBert where exactly is the end of the wedge at this point in relation to the barrel slot?
can you depress or dremel away the wedge catch(lip) that is spring loaded?
Just a thought that the spring lip is caught up on the inside of the barrel frame or on the outside..

[ClemBert]

The wedge is basically flush with the barrel or I should say just barely protruding. This is the case with both of those 1851's they sent me. Just about identical. The catch is barely sticking out as you point out. I wouldn't doubt if the problem is what you pointed out. I think I should just shoot the hell outta that bad boy then come home and attempt to tap it out. If it still is a beast then probably a dremel tool or blasting caps are in order.

[Smokin_Gun]

Hell at this point I think I would too...jus' try takin' the wedge out a cylinder full at a time.
Is yours an 1851 Lawman .44 white grips and engraved some?? I have forgotten.

One other thing I had thought about was ...if the wedge screw on the bbl fits up good against the wedge I've used thethat screw to help remove a wedge when i had no mallet...put a lil tension on the screw as to attempt forcing the wedge out and tap or smack it hard with a dead blow hammer...and keep tension on the wedge with the screw.
Just a thought.

[ClemBert]

Dis be da debil...hehehe, bet you wish I showed you the other side.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/Colt1851010.jpg

[ClemBert]

You can kind of see from this pic that the wedge isn't sticking out much.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/WedgeRemoval012.jpg

[Smokin_Gun]

Clembert that vise is what bent that brass tool... You should try hittin' the other one you have with a steel ball peen hammer that has some weight to it.
The tool is made to hit with a straight blow the side load of the vist was too much for the brass.
How much you got into that Lawman with a stuck wedge?

I do have a new unfired Pietta 1851 Navy steel frame in .44 cal. if something were to happen that you've had enough let me know.
I've had this one for 9 years never shot it.

I just realized yer's ain't the Lawman in .44 it's the .36 Navy sorry....
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/Smokin_Gun/Colts/1851Navy44.jpg

[madcratebuilder]

ClemBert, do you have access to an arbor press? I have encountered one wedge that would not move with hammer and punch. The arbor press took it out like a hot knife through butter.

[ClemBert]

Just to be clear...the tool below bent when struck hard with a hammer.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/Wedge002.jpg

The above pictured brass punch is not what you are seeing in the picture below.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/WedgeRemoval012.jpg

The homemade punch below and to the left is what you saw in the vice.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/WedgeRemoval024.jpg

[ClemBert]

ClemBert, do you have access to an arbor press? I have encountered one wedge that would not move with hammer and punch. The arbor press took it out like a hot knife through butter.

Nope, I don't have an arbor press. I think the best solution at this point is to shoot it like there is no tomorrow then try and take it out. If that fails then just use a dremel as Smokin_Gun suggested and buy a new wedge.

[tonicbelly]

I also cannot remove the wedge from my 1851 Pietta Colt Navy. Will try what is suggested here...

[MacGille]

Arbor press 49.00 from harbor freight. It works for many other things also.

[ClemBert]

I thought I'd give an update on that rascally wedge from hell. I was able to get to ClemBert's shootin' range today to shoot the ever livin' crap out of the Pietta 1851 Navy. I went with 25 grains of 777 without a wad to loosen that puppy up. When I got home I took both of my brass punches and proceeded to bend them both....big surprise huh? Now they both look like the one on the right.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/Wedge002.jpg

Now it was time to break out the wedge destructo tool...a big STEEL punch. With a big ol' framing hammer I hit that sucker once...no movement. I reset the punch then took another big swing and to my delight that wedge popped free. Hallelujah!!!

Got that puppy cleaned up in a hot soapy bath and baked her dry. I changed out the factory nipples with some Treso bronze nipples. Anti-seize grease on both the nipple threads and the wedge from hell. Fortunately the wedge didn't suffer too much damage from the steel punch. There's just a round dent in it where the punch made contact but not too noticeable.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions and encouragement through this saga. :D

[olmontanaboy]

Great!!! can you tell if the wedge is contacting the front of the arbor slot, and the bacK of the barrel slot, or is it contacting the front and back of just the arbor slot?

[Hardcase]

Good gravy, Clem, you ought to sell the movie rights to this saga!

[ClemBert]

can you tell if the wedge is contacting the front of the arbor slot, and the bacK of the barrel slot, or is it contacting the front and back of just the arbor slot?

To be honest, I didn't even look. I was just happy to have the wedge come out. It was late in the evening and I just wanted to get it apart, cleaned, oiled, and back together again. I'll try to take a closer look next time.

[Smokin_Gun]

Congrads Clembert... :O)

[arcticap]

There's always comments about the Italian gorillas that pound those wedges in too tight.
But I wonder if the wedges aren't being forced in too tight because they're using a shop press?

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/145208_lg.gif

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?xsell=true&storeId=6970&catalogId=4006970&langId=-1&productId=200332763&R=200332763&cm_sp=Xsells-_-Manual-_-Product%20Page


Especially since they assemble so many guns at a time, wouldn't want to damage the new wedges by manually pounding them in and a press would apply consistent pressure. To top it off both of Clembert's pistols had the exact same problem with the brand new wedge being stuck.
And as to whether it's right or wrong to think that Pietta could easily back off on the wedge installation pressure, maybe they feel that much pressure is necessary to form fit the wedge during it's first insertion by using a fixed amount of force.
I still think that a penny's worth of grease applied at the factory would have helped to remove it. :)

[tonicbelly]

I am pretty sick of seeing "Italian Gorilla" in this thread.
He may be a little heavy with the hammer but your ape fingers are a little heavy with the keyboard. ease up. :)

[Smokin_Gun]

Kapeeesh?
:cool:

[Hardy]

A brand called Break Free. Their add reads--"frees everything but a convict. I really don't know where to get it but maybe google it--just a suggestion

WBH

[FJM25]

I just finished going through the same ordeal with a brand new Cabela's (Pietta) 1860 Colt Army (steel). I too have the bent punches and brass rods, flattened brass screws, split dowels, bent pennies and blood blisters on my hands from being pinched by the punches. That wedge would not move. ClemBert I feel your pain. I have another 1860 being shipped to me as I write this. Hopefully things work out better this time. Mr. Pietta we need to talk. NOTE: I ordered a Pietta 1858 Remington at the same time and the pistol is flawless.

[Chris_B]

Time to stop thinking in terms of engineering and start thinking like a mechanic. Replace the wedge; do not attempt to save it or be nice to it any more

Make a wooden cradle to hold the revolver firmly in a clamshell, take the whole thing to a milling machine and mill a hole in the wedge. Then when you whack it the metal has a place to "give" to

Then get another wedge- on Pietta's dime

When you get the wedge out, you'll be able to see what the problem was. My Pietta's wedge never had any problems so I don't have any insights as to the cause

[robhof]

I had forgot that Pietta has a website for customer service. I had bought a Remington pocket new old stock and the front sight was loose, they sent me a new front sight. Maybe a blogging of the site with the wedge complaints will result in a change!!!! or a suggested fix!!

[Model-P]

I just got my first open-top cap-and-ball revolver a few days ago. It is an 1860 Pietta. The wedge was fairly tight, but not like the one in this thread, thank goodness!

Anyhow, this being my first "wedged" gun, do they ever loosen up to the point where you can remove and replace them by hand alone? I remember seeing Clint Eastwood change a cylinder with no tools in a movie once. And then there was Tuco in "The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly" swapping several Colt barrels in the gun store.
So what's the true scoop?

[madcratebuilder]

Depending on your grip strength and how well the revolver is fit, yes you can remove the wedge with just firm thumb pressure. I made a small hard wood 'wedge hammer' sort of like a mini billy club. I drilled one end and filled with lead then plugged it. It well loosen any of the wedge's I use with just a firm tap.

[Gaucho Gringo]

Here is what I use on my wedges. Has six tips plastic,brass,steel ball-dome-flat-wedge. The wedge tip will barely fit the wedge slot in my guns.

[michael t]

I cured my wedge problem it was simple I sold the pistol :mad: I won't buy another of that brand Their is no reason for it to be that hard to take down

[michael t]

Sorry double post

[Chris_B]

Kapeeesh?

I finally said what you wrote out loud, and discovered that you mean "capisce"

[tonicbelly]

io capisco!
yeah kapeeeesh is a popular american way of writing it out. I saw it on a t-shirt the other day.

[Sabot]

Brand new gun, never fired or taken apart. The wedge was not all the way in and nothing in the world will get it to come out. I put a piece of wood over the wedge on the opposite side and smacked it with a hammer to get it to move a little and now the cylinder won't even turn, broken. Boxed up and on its way back to Cabela's, what a POS. I'll have tham send me another one and if it's like this one no more Piettas for me. :mad:

[okiefarmer]

Happy to say mine came right out. After reading all these horror stories about some gorilla, I was deathly scared to ever shoot my '51. I am crude, cheap, and I buy these things to shoot, not to display, but I knocked it out with a steel punch. First whack with a little 6 ounce ball peen did it.

Now that I have got to go play with the '51 at the shootin' range, I would rather shoot it and clean it up than either of my '58s It's a breeze to clean. Pull the barrel off, then the cylinder, and dunk 'em both.

Guess I got the last '51 that the gorilla didn't put together. Sorry

[madcratebuilder]

Brand new gun, never fired or taken apart. The wedge was not all the way in and nothing in the world will get it to come out. I put a piece of wood over the wedge on the opposite side and smacked it with a hammer to get it to move a little and now the cylinder won't even turn, broken. Boxed up and on its way back to Cabela's, what a POS. I'll have tham send me another one and if it's like this one no more Piettas for me.

Sounds like you inadvertently drove the wedge further into the barrel lug tightening the barrel gap, causing the cylinder to drag. That's why the cylinder does not turn.
To remove a tight wedge, support the left side of the barrel lug on a piece of hardwood in a manner that the wedge is free to move. Using a 3/8 brass punch with the tip filed to a double D shape that fits the wedge slot. Give a sharp whack with a steel hammer. I've only encountered one that need more force than that.

[Hardy]

Well, here I go---I have 2 pietta "lawmakers w/steel frame and black grips. I don't even know if Pietta makes these now. But I like the way they look. Reminds me of Richard Boone "Have Gun will Travel", Hey Smoking Gun--you know. I call them "Pallidins" Anyway, I took one from the store and tried to remove the wedge. :mad: Started w/ penny--moved to brass screw, moved to (nevermind) anyway penny and brass screw didn't pull a string out of a cat's a...! But I honed it put it back in and cylinder wouldn't rotate with cock. You have to hone both sides of wedge with a stone. Is that not right? then polish wedge . You want the spring to clip right side of barrel w/out your cylinder jamming the cone of your barrel. The cheaper Piettas have tough wedges that are not user friendly. Why, I'll tell yu--- A gunsmith(BlackPowder enthusiast w b/p pistols of his own that we use to fix customers' guns) told me that the cheaper guns with ""unscrolled"" cylinders are cut w/ the tools almost worn out and the assembly is a little slack etc and made W/ less care. Kinda like a chef cuttin his last slab of beef before he has to sharpin his knife. Anyway, the most economical Pietta that we have found that is worthy, more inside polishing , fitting etc. is the 44 Navy brass that has the "Scrolled" cylinder. But The price of 1860 Army 44 is good at Cabella. BUT--it ain't as smooth as the scrolled 44 Navy brass. Oh... Madcrater- a bug told me you had a set of them Palliden grips. What you want for them?:)
The Twin

[herb]

Does Pietta or other manu make a Model 1849 Colt revolver with 5 1/2 or 6 in barrel?? Don't care for pocket 4 in. model. Thanks Herb

[Fingers McGee]

Does Pietta or other manu make a Model 1849 Colt revolver with 5 1/2 or 6 in barrel?? Don't care for pocket 4 in. model. Thanks Herb

In a word - Maybe. Dixie still lists a Palmetto pocket model with 5 1/2 inch barrel; but Palmetto is out of business AFAIK.

Pietta doesn't make 1849s.
Uberti only makes a 4 inch.
ASM made Baby Dragoons with 3, 4 and 5 inch barrels without loading lever.
CVA sold the ASM products
Palmetto made pocket models with 3, 4, 5, and 5.5 inch barrels with loading levers

AFAIK - Uberti is the only current manufacturer of '49 Pocket models. NIB or lightly used models from other manufacturers can be had on the secondary market from the gun auction sites.

[herb]

Gaucho Gringo - The watch hammers looked nice...do they have railroad hammers??? Thats what we needed to get one apart... BUT GOD NEWS for Pietta lovers. I got a email from Pietta home and was informed the problem had been resolved several months ago. Guess they ran out of space to store the returned ones. THANK GOD!:rolleyes::D

[herb]

make that "GOOD NEWS".:)

[Delmar]

So I have been talking to a guy at Indiana Gunowners forum, who was thinking of picking up a cap and ball revolver and he ended up buying an 1860 from Cabela's. So now I just got a PM from him asking for ideas on getting the wedge out, so I sent him a link to this thread. I also suggested that since he doesn't live that far from Cabela's that he take it bake and have them get the wedge out for him, or replace the pistol.

[denster]

If you want a good laugh (or cry) you should read the article on wedge removal on Pietta's website.
Seriously though they do seem to have corrected the problem with 2010 production. Thank God! Before that they must have been installing them with an arbor press and a few times I had to use an arbor press to get them out.

[ironmace]

How about some penetrating oil and an arbor press? An arbor press can be rented and will exert ( depending on the model) up to 2 tons of pressure. (One you can carry.) Seems better than beating on it with a hammer. You can also buy a 6-ton press from harbor freight for less than 100.00 I'm sure you spent close to that already on stuff with no result.

You'll also have a really neat tool! :)

[Slowhand]

:)
Delmar

Thanks for bringing this old thread up. I 've had it book marked for some time, after I ran into a couple of wedges with attitude. Loads of "fun"..

The worst wedge far was in a Pietta 1858 Remington made in 2003. It ate two wooden dowels I had trimmed to fit, two brass punches and a plastic one before I got it out.

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/categories/partDetail.aspx?catId=1&subId=19&styleId=1061&partNum=TOOL-KEY-B

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv308/bgoff689/weapons/wedgeremovers.jpg

I picked up a couple of these Drift Punches last month and they work just fine.

[Delmar]

Slowhand
I'm confused. You have a Pietta 1858 Remington with a wedge?

[Ideal Tool]

Hello Guys, Wow! who would of thought a little piece of metal like that could cause so much trouble! I have a Colt re-make 1860 army .44 from the early 1980's. When I bought it, I had to lightly tap with a rawhide mallet to start & then could be pulled out with fingers. After a few seasons of use, now I can move wedge with strong thumb push & pull out. On my Colt 1851 navy of early 1970's vintage..it still is tight enough that I still need the rawhide rap to loosen. If you have ever seen well used original Colt percussion revolvers, the right side of barrel looks like an anvil! Those guys must have used the backs of Bowie knives, horse shoes, butplates, or rocks!

[Ideal Tool]

:eek:Hello, guys, This is something I have been thinking about for years, and all this talk of Colts & wedgies, finally got me to put it in words:
I would love to have a stop-action high speed camera photo of a Colt percussion revolver with that mid-19th century, three piece-held together-by a wedge design to show the Moment of force. I'll bet when that ball hits that forcing cone, there's more twisting & bucking going on than in a Cat-House on election day!

[Slowhand]

:)
Nope... you weren't confused.... :D I must have been.... it was a 1851 Colt Navy Replica...

[Noz]

I have no idea how many Piettas I have owned, 1860s and 1851s but I currently have 7 1860s(number can change on a whim). I have never had any trouble at all removing a wedge. At the most a light tap with a rubber hammer was required.