View Full Version : Choke tubes coming loose anyone help ?
March 8, 2009, 09:53 PM
Bought a Haydells DPX Extended range choke for my Beratta Extrema and whilst it patterns really well it comes loose after two or three shots. I'm impressed with the extra range and it drops birds at 45 mtrs but not happy that I have to tighten it (by hand as it has no notches) after every shot.:confused:
March 8, 2009, 10:37 PM
Welcomr to TFL, HappyGilmore NZ.
We have a Shotgun forum here ... moving this there now.
March 8, 2009, 10:41 PM
Happy to have you here Happy. I would check out the manufacturer's website and give them an email with your problem. This does not sound normal to me and they may have a fix for it.
March 8, 2009, 10:43 PM
They have a contact tab to the left. Keep us posted on your choke problems.
March 9, 2009, 07:53 AM
Using a good lubricant or anti-seize product should help prevent that. Also, I have used the plumber's white teflon thread tape on an 1100 in 28 where the threads are so shallow is it always coming loose.
March 9, 2009, 11:41 AM
I wouldn't put any kind of lock tite on a choke tube - they are designed to fit "finger strength tight". You should not have to tighten them with a wrench - but they shouldn't come loose after a couple of shells either.
I would take them out - make sure the threads are clean in barrel and on choke / use a liberal amount of "Break Free" on the choke tube threads and snug them in, finger tight. Put a finger inside the choke tube - and just crank it down finger tight. let us know if that works.
March 9, 2009, 01:10 PM
I totally agree with BigJimP on the loctite. With as much surface area as is present with the finely threaded choke tubes, this could be very difficult indeed to remove.
This is kind of the problem. "Finger Tight" is so nebulous a term as to be practically meaningless. I have spent a good deal of my working life on a jewelers bench and at various other pursuits where I work with my hands. I can put a choke in "finger tight" and most normal folks would have to have a wrench to remove it. Some folks obviously think that when the threads bottom out that is finger tight.
My advice is to use some anti seize, such as Birchwood Casey's Choke Tube Lube, and tighten it with your hands tightly enough that it doesn't shoot loose. The little tube of stuff seems expensive, but will last you for years and will insure that the choke tube will not get stuck.
The use you describe, i.e. bird hunting would indicate to me that you are not changing chokes often like some sporting clays shooters. Some of those guys change chokes at practically every station. If you are unable to tighten it enough by hand, then try one of the rubber "jar openers" (the ones that are a 4"X4" thin rubber square) for added traction.
I'm thinking that if a wrench is inappropriate, then why does nearly every manufacturer that supplies flush choke tubes also supply a wrench? While it may be just so you can reach down into the recesses to grab the tube, most folks tighten them far more that "finger tight". If you want it to stay in place, tighten it down a bit more.
I'm thinking even the application of a small strap wrench would be appropriate if needed...just don't get carried away.
March 9, 2009, 01:21 PM
Roscoe brings up a good point on choke tube wrenches - and why do mfg's supply them with their guns ...
I think they do intend for people to use them. The problem is, I've seen the wrences cause some problems - where people crossthread a choke tube - and crank it in with a wrench, causing all kinds of mayhem. I'm not saying you can't use them - if you're careful / but I am saying you're better off if you don't use them.
I see too many new shooters at the gun club putting enough torque on a choke tube wrench - to life themselves off the ground - because they think they need to get those chokes in "tight". I also see the same guys / grunting enough to break their hemroids loose / trying to get their chokes out on another day - because they cranked them in so tight - and then often they left them in the gun for 100 boxes and didn't clean or lube them ... Now you're going to be lucky to get them out at all - with or without a wrench. So I don't think you need them / and personally, I don't use them at all - not even on flush mounted choke tubes.
March 9, 2009, 01:36 PM
The problem is, I've seen the wrences cause some problems - where people crossthread a choke tube - and crank it in with a wrench, causing all kinds of mayhem.
Yep, that can get ugly, with choke tubes or any threaded device. My general rule is to put it on by hand and run it in with just the fingers. If it stops or gets stiff after a few turns - back it out and start over. But I snug it up with a wrench.
March 9, 2009, 02:12 PM
9 times out of 10 I've found that a quarter is the only tube wrench you need.
March 9, 2009, 03:34 PM
I'll just share my little technique here, it has always stood me in good stead. I drop the tube in the barrel, and with light downward pressure, I slowly rotate it COUNTER clockwise. As if I were Unscrewing it. When you feel and hear the slight click that will inevitably occur, you have just passed the starting point for the threads. At this point begin to rotate the choke clockwise. This greatly lessens your chances of cross threading. It has become such a habit for me that it only takes a second or so.
My previous post may have sounded as though I was advocating slapping the wrench in and wailing away. Totally not what I intended. Some things are so ingrained in me from years and years of working with these things that they have become second nature. I never start any threads any way buy by hand, or when they are small, with the appropriate wrench, socket, screwdriver, etc. rotated by hand.
Same with the chokes... I always use the procedure outlined above, and with recessed chokes, when there becomes too little protrusion to grasp, I use a wrench (or a quarter, sometimes). I do tighten these a bit more, because it is just not as convenient to check them as it is the extended ones.
With extended chokes, I use Angleport and they are nicely knurled at the end. I don't worry about them, because I have just made it a habit to reach up and snug them down about ever 3 - 5 rounds.
March 9, 2009, 03:57 PM
One of the easiest to cross and strip items is a sparkplug in an aluminum head 'tween the exaust pipes.
Yet we still torque them but not until after starting by hand to assure not crossed up. while I don't use much force, I do give a final twist with my cheap mossberg tool.
If I had a choke that extends beyond barrel without tool notches as OP states, I would put a rubber strap wrench on it to assure it is set. I also haul my cresent wrenches fully closed as well as vise grips to avoid inadvertent disassembly of them in the tray...
March 9, 2009, 06:46 PM
Two wraps of plumbers teflon tape on the threads works for me.
March 9, 2009, 11:21 PM
Per post 4
I have seen this happen on some guns. You might try one wrap of Teflon tape. This should keep that from happening. Thanks
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