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View Full Version : Another stuck case in resizing die thread - for the reloading newbees.


btefft
February 15, 2009, 09:29 PM
Another stuck case in resizing die thread - for the reloading newbees.

As most know, I have tons of experience with straight walled cases. In all my years of reloading I have never stuck one, no not one.

But that record is gone. I stuck the very first .223 Rem case I tried in my .223 Lyman resizing die yesterday - the very first one I tried to resize, dang it. I guess I didn't lube it enough - lesson learned. And I was warned to watch out for .223, dah on me.

So, I went to Lowe's and bought me a #7 drill bit, a 1/4-20 tap, and a 1/4-20 tap bolt.
Before I left for Lowe's I gave the sides of the stuck case a few shots of Kroil - figured it couldn't hurt.

I was happy to see that DeWalt packages a #7 drill bit and a 1/4-20 tap in a single package - how convenient.

Then, I went to the hardware section and bought a 1/4-20 x 2 inch tap bolt - it is threaded all the way from top to bottom.

While looking for the tap bolt, I saw a 1.5 inch spacer and bought that, too, even though I realize a socket would have worked as well. But I was assembling the parts for a homemade stuck case remover set and I did not want to assign my socket to it.

I already had bunches of 1/4, 3/16, 1/2 inch washers to go on top of the spacer, so I didn't have to buy any of them.

I also bought a tap wrench (that was the major expense). I didn't really need it, but it sure made the task easier.


To actually remove the stuck case here's what I did:

1- I was able remove the deprimer/decapper pin so I knew I was not going to hit it with the #7 drill bit. I was trying to get it up out of the way and was happy that it came out. Otherwise, I would have tried to drill w/o hitting the depriming pin (at least, if I had hit it, it is replaceable.

2- After putting the die in my padded vise, I used the #7 drill bit to drill through the hole in the center of the primer pocket

3- Then, I used the 1/4-20 tap to thread the hole I had just drilled into the primer pocket.

4- Next, I placed the spacer on the die around the stuck case.

5- Finally, I put a number of washers on the bolt and then inserted the bolt through the spacer and screwed it into the threaded hole I drilled into the case.

6- Then, I just tightened down on the bolt and felt it smug up and stop against the washers atop the spacer. Time to get a long handle ratchet. The long handled ratchet made quick work of it. The spinning bolt pulled that stuck case right out into the spacer.

But you know, I was wondering. Instead of just turning the bolt, would it have been more efficient to put a nut on the bolt, and then hold the bolt while I tightened the nut against the washers on top of the spacer. That way, instead to the bolt turning as it pulled, the bolt would have just pulled the case straight up (like the press ram pulls it straight down).

I know I just reinvented the wheel, but buying these few parts was a lot less costly the buying one of those stuck case removal kits online.

This thread is the compilation of much research on how to remove a stuck case, so I thought I'd give you all a "Cliff Notes" version on removing a stuck case form a resizing die..

Hope no one minds.

Hack

Luke
February 15, 2009, 09:40 PM
Good stuff there. And the best part about it is you didn't have to stop and wait till you got the removal kit in the mail. :cool:
Luke

DiscoRacing
February 15, 2009, 09:51 PM
i have lee dies... just remove the decapper pin and use a regular easyout....

T. O'Heir
February 15, 2009, 10:56 PM
It's a lot easier to take out the decapping rod, put a suitably sized(3/16" will do nicely) brass or Al bar stock about 6" long into the case and smack it with a plastic mallet. Does work with all die makes though. Not all of 'em have a hole big enough for the bar stock.

Jim243
February 16, 2009, 02:03 AM
It really is cheaper to buy the stuck case kit eventhough I think they are over priced for what you get. Every time I walk into one of those big box hardware stores I end up buying new tools I do not need and have no place to store. Must be one of those male things about new tools.

wwmkwood
February 16, 2009, 08:32 AM
You could switch to Lee dies, loosen the collet that holds the decapper and use a hammer and punch to push the decapper and stuck round out.

Shoney
February 16, 2009, 12:50 PM
Post #6 of October 19. 2007

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=265229

Inspector3711
February 16, 2009, 01:11 PM
Sometimes you can put the die in the freezer for an hour. The brass shrinks more than the die... It'll fall right out.

btefft
February 16, 2009, 02:00 PM
Cool Shoney,

I was wondering the size of a #7 drill bit - 13/64 inch, that makes sense being a tad smaller than the 1/4 tap.

Hack

OldShooter
February 16, 2009, 08:01 PM
I used T. O'heir and wwmkwood's method on my Lee die, no problem. The problem I discovered was the range brass I picked up. Every one that got stuck was Speer +P. It happened a few times before I made the connection. Must be a tougher case. I sort for that now.

btefft
February 16, 2009, 11:37 PM
Many have recommended Imperial Wax and Hornady's Unique to me.

Both are sold by Midway and both have rave reviews, with Imperial having about 3 x's more. You swipe your finger tips across the wax and as you handle your brass, it gets lubed.

The prices are:
Imperial - 6.49 for 2 ozs (and it was on sale)
Hornady - 4.09 for 4 ozs

I'm gonna try the Hornady Unique.

Hack

Inspector3711
February 16, 2009, 11:46 PM
I use Imperial for the outside and dry graphite inside the neck on rifle cases. One thing you may consider. Go to a place that sells shoes and pick up a tin of Kiwi Mink Oil. Use it just like Imperial. You get about 3 times more for your money. Next time I run out I'm headed for the shoe department.

btefft
February 17, 2009, 12:23 AM
Mink oil, thanks Inspector.

I just ordered the Hornady Unique, but I'll keep that in mind.

hack