Help with reloading 9mm auto!

[.357 mag]

Hey,

I'm not new to reloading revolvers, but I'm new to reloading autos. I have been trying to reload my 9mm sigma, and I'm having some troubles.

First what I'm doing:

S&W 9mm simga

9MM 122GR TC SEMI WADCUTTER BULLET .356

winchester primer

univeral powder


Here is what is happening:

The first round will chamber, gun will not fully go into battery. I will have a hard time getting that round to clear.(stuck in the chamber). About 1 out of ten round I can get to fully chamber. When it does, the round goes off, cycles the action, chambers a new round, and most likely get stuck again.


Help!! I hope you can understand what I'm doing wrong.

Thanks

.357

[kyle663]

did you check case length oaver all length? auto's seat on the case rim unlike revolvers. also you might try a little tighter crimp, when i'm relading for my 9mm, i take my pistol apart and drop a round down the tube once in awhile to make sure they set where they should.

[cgaengineer]

Can you tell us your process?

Are you sizing the case? Are they once fired or new cases? Roll crimp?

Have you taken out your 9mm pistol barrel and set one of the rounds into it? Is it sticking up? I am thinking it is, it should be just below.

[1911 Shooter]

Do you have a 9mm case gauge ? sounds like the ammo is out of spec. Does factory ammo do the same ?

[Shoney]

Two things come to mind:

1. The cartridge is too long.

2. If the SWC bullet is lead, then during the bullet seating process, the die was set to far down. This results in the case biting into the bullet before it is all the way down; and the lead is either being shaved to the same diameter of the case, or it overlaps the case.

Check and let us know.

[Ozzieman]

I agree with Shoney #2
Get yourself a taper crimp die and turn your seating crimp die out and use it only as a seating die.
Had this same problem when I first loaded lead in a 45acp.
Taper crimp dies take all the guess work out of autos.

[Selfdfenz]

What 1911 said

I would do a quick check and see if you have a bulge near the case rim...which is basically where 1911 is headed I think.

Best
S-

[.357 mag]

yes, I just checked(took my barrel off) and the reload stops just before it should. It looks a little thick there. How do you fix this?

Thanks again

[Mtn Biker]

I run my 9mm through a Lee Factory Crimp die as my last step. It straightens out any imperfections. Can you show us a pic of one of your rounds? Most of my reloads hardly touch the die though if I take my time during the earlier steps.

VL

[BRAVO1NINER]

Do what MtnBiker says, it fixed my problems with my G19.....

BRAVO1NINER

[Shoney]

Before you go off half cocked, try the shorter OAL. Do not try to shorten those already loaded. You may not need the FCD.

If it still does not go into battery, try screwing down you seating die by 1/2 turn. Test. Let us know.

[Selfdfenz]

357

I assume you fired this brass in your firearm.

If you still have the barrel out of the firearm and insert a loaded round and then rotate it in the chamber does it reach a point where in chambers fully?

Try a few loaded rounds and see if you find this to be the case.

Best

S-

[totalloser]

Just a thought, but perhaps setting the roll crimp out a tad might prevent the bulge? If set too hard, it may be buckling the mouth of the case. With lead bullets, it will already be .001" oversize from the larger projectile. Resetting the roll crimp may be all you need. (?) :)

[Dr. Strangelove]

I had the same problem when experimenting with crimping 9mm. I solved it by not crimping.

Additionally, be sure you are opening the case mouth enough with the belling die. You don't need to go crazy with it, just ensure that you are spreading the case mouth enough to allow the bullet to fit easily. If you are shaving lead off the bullet when seating or bulging the case at the head, you need to adjust the belling die to open the case mouth a wee bit more.

As far as crimping, "taper crimp" is not at all like a roll crimp, where the case mouth will be "biting" into the bullet. Just set the bullet seating/taper crimp die so the case mouth is returned to normal specs, with no bulges around the bullet.

[aarhunt]

i had this same problem, problem was the case wasnt sized all the way!then i resized the case and it seats just fine

[aarhunt]

i should say it seats in the barrel just fine:)

[Cloudpeak]

Just to summarize what some posters have said:

Taper crimp for 9mm autos that headspace on the case mouth (not the rim). Don't use a roll crimp. Taper crimp. I seat in one operation and use a taper crimp die next. IOW, back your seat crimp die out so you are only seating the bullet and not using the roll crimp feature of that die. Then use a taper crimp die. Bullet retention is a function of sizer die and the expander plug, not the crimp. The taper crimp simply removes the case mouth bell. I always check for setback and if it's a problem, I reduce the diameter of the expander plug.

OAL could be too long causing the bullet to jam into the "leade" or rifling. I'd make up a dummy round at the COAL that you are using and check chamber fit. Seat the bullet deeper until it chambers.

Cloudpeak