View Full Version : Taurus .357 #66, difficult to eject
May 17, 2008, 08:53 PM
I have a Taurus model 66 .357. Immediately after firing, it is very difficult to eject the shells. However, I have no problem loading or ejecting unfired rounds. In fact, unfired rounds slip out without using the ejector.
What can I do? or is this normal?
May 17, 2008, 08:56 PM
Hard ejection in a revolver is usually the result of either hot loads, or rough chambers. If your cartridges are factory or your loads are moderate, you might check the chambers. Sometimes something as simple as some 600 grit emery paper on a slit dowel rod will serve to clean up a chamber, but be careful not to make things worse.
May 17, 2008, 09:12 PM
I'm using factory rounds 100%, no reloads. The longer I wait after firing, the easier is is to eject spent shells. I'll try smoothing the chambers. Thanks for your help!
May 20, 2008, 04:08 PM
Yea, I've had to use the drill and abrasive paper on many revolver cylinders - especially the early Ruger revolver chambers. The Blackhawks are the worst, and Smiths are the best. The new Rugers are very good about chamber finish.
I use a cordless drill often or the drill press with the finest grit I have.
Traded for a Savage MKII 22 rifle the other day, got it home, fired it and it wouldn't extract the spent shell. I checked the empties for marks - O.K. - worked on the extractors and spring and finally used some very fine grit on a brass rod slit to hold it and polished the chamber ever so slightly. Workes fine now - nice little rifle.
On polishing revolver cylinders great care must be exercised in not enlarging the front of the cylinder - this is crucial for accuracy. The exit from the cylinder shouldn't be more than .001 more than your revolver groove diameter.
May 20, 2008, 08:00 PM
When polishing a cylinder to improve extraction, it is not necessary to go into the front of the cylinder at all, just the part where the cartridge case goes. A big danger is getting carried away and polishing the front part too much so it is larger than the rear. When that happens, the case swells into the larger area and can't be extracted without a rod and a hammer.
But that being said, a few seconds with a drill, a split dowel and some 600 grit paper will sometimes work wonders. You don't need to go much finer than that, as you want some case wall adhesion even in a revolver.
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