View Full Version : 870 barrel problem?
January 14, 2008, 12:51 AM
I Can't Get The Barrel Of My Remington 870 Off Of The Receiver. I Unscrew The Magazine Tube But The Barrel Won't Come Off.
January 14, 2008, 04:25 AM
I Think you have to slide the action about half way open in order to remove the barrel.
January 14, 2008, 03:10 PM
Release the action / hold it part way open / kind of jiggle it around a little - and the barrel will come right off ( you have to kind of find the sweet spot - where it releases or comes free.
January 14, 2008, 05:24 PM
"...slide the action about half way open..." It should come off with the action all the way open too. No force is required.
"...Unscrew The Magazine Tube..." Just the end cap.
January 14, 2008, 07:37 PM
From your post, I assume you have a gun with a magazine extension.
If so, you have to unscrew the grooved collar that's screwed on the front of the guns magazine tube.
These have been coming from the factory screwed on WAY to tight, and you may have to use a small strap wrench or a pair of WELL padded pliers.
Just get a good grip on the grooved collar and unscrew it.
THEN open the action half way and remove the barrel.
When reassembling the gun, screw the collar on finger tight, then give it one more "Click".
You should be able to remove the collar with just your fingers.
If you scar up the collar getting it off, contact Remington and complain. They'll send you a new collar.
January 14, 2008, 08:20 PM
He's right- they're way too tight on new guns. Pretty cool they'll replace 'em, though!
January 15, 2008, 08:59 PM
I would first suggest that the factory does not assemble the extension to the magazine, since their guns come inside a styrofoam protected insert, box, and shipping sleeve. The store does assembly for placing a complete gun on display.
I would also like to note that almost all common pump and semi-auto shotguns that use interchangeable barrels can have the barrel pulled free from the frame (once the forearm/magazine cap/or whatever is removed) without pumping or drawing back the bolt at all.
Mossberg 500/835, Rem. 870, 1100, SP-10, Win. 1200/1300/1400/1500/120/140 and every other similar design, just pull the barrel off- unless the barrel ring over the magazine tube or barrel extension inside the frame has some corrosion, ding on the end of the mag. tube, burred or disrupted thread or out-of-round tube/frame condition, in other words, an unintended interference.
Pumping a slide back all of the way will sometimes make the pump tube or forearm intrude enough to prevent free withdrawal of a barrel from the frame, so I can understand someone recommending pumping back just halfway. You will need to do that to INSTALL the barrel, but not remove these barrels.
Have you seen the crooked factory and aftermarket choke tube installations pictured at my website? Article 3 shows the end result of one disaster-in-the-making, a barrel bulged and splitting and ready to explode the next shot. Don't presume that things are all right with any barrel or job, and see that you can recognize a dangerous situation and avoid your (or a friend's) own tragic event. Who wants to be the one standing next to a barrel that blows apart?
January 15, 2008, 10:16 PM
I disagree. The Remington 870 express with the extended magazine comes assembled from the factory. And too tight!
January 17, 2008, 07:25 PM
I was speaking with the super in charge of Law Enforcement at Remington, and he will get back to me about the packing of the guns. They may be pre-assembled at the factory with the extension, but he did have this hint that I wanted to impart:
if the extension doesn't want to turn by hand (after the barrel clamp is removed), I would use a grip enhancement similar to the housewive's helper jar lid rubber gripper, then lightly bounce the butt down to help push the barrel ring away for an instant. A little shock may be just enough for the "freeze" to crack loose, just like an impact driver can loosen fasteners that would possibly break if just twisted loose.
Any gripping tool that you may choose to use would best be shielded by some of that rubber and/or leather with rosin grip powder applied. Avoid plier marks and vise-grip squeeze deformities.
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