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tINY
October 1, 2007, 05:15 PM
Once I releived a lot of the barrel channel, I decided that the Medalist Bell and Carlson stock had the aluminum chassis installed at a slight decline. I guess the Butler Creek stock wasn't so bad as to warrant this much work, but I already modified the "Special deal" from Midway... So, I did what I was hoping to avoid: bedding the 300 win action into the stock.

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=27313&stc=1&d=1191276410http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=27314&stc=1&d=1191276410

I used the metal on metal contact at the rear to set the height in the back and wrapped tape around the barrel until the ejection port lined up with the cut-out in the stock.

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=27315&stc=1&d=1191276410

The only way I figured I could deal with the front action screw was to bed the thing and drill out the epoxy afterwards....

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=27316&d=1191277024

She's seems to be shooting alright now, though I only had time to put a few rounds down at 50 yards after eyeball bore sighting the new scope. The holes were touching firing from front and rear bags.

The Forend flexes abit more than I like, but with that extra barrel relief from before, I think it won't bear against the barrel.

Before I put her thought her paces before Elk season, is there anything I've missed?


-tINY

tINY
October 1, 2007, 05:16 PM
-t

tINY
October 1, 2007, 05:17 PM
Ok, the 4th picture this time....


-tINY

Harry Bonar
October 1, 2007, 05:52 PM
Sir:
The only thing I see is that the action wasn't screwed down as it should have been.
After I put release agent over the bbl'd action I run long inletting screws up through the action screw holes and duct tape them there so that I don't get bedding compound down in the action screw holes - put in the compound and (coat screws well with release agent) pull the inletting screws out and quickly insert action screws and tighten them down so that the bbl'd action bottoms out.
Now, if you had a "booble" it's easy to correct - with your Dremel tool just rout out the old bedding compound and try again.
Is the blue stuff on your action release agent or bedding compound? The bedding compound shouldn't be adhering to your action.
Bedding can be a real challenge - your bbl. ought be bedded only so far as it's paralel! I assume the blue on the stock is to prevent over-run?
Harry B.

P.S. I always loosten the action screws just after the bedding sets up.

tINY
October 1, 2007, 07:14 PM
All blue is masking tape - two layers on the front, sides and bottom of the lug. It was also used to block the cut-out in the action and cover outside of the stock for over-runs.

"Release agent" was several layers of paste wax (last coat left unbuffed). A little of this is stuck to the epoxy if you look close.

I couldn't bottom out the action as I had about 3/16" to make up at the front of the action. I can see where your method would be dandy for skim-bedding, though. I'll have to remember that.



-tINY

Scorch
October 1, 2007, 11:06 PM
Oh, no! Tiny! You're not supposed to use YELLOW Play-Doh!!!

Just kidding. Looks like it will work. As long as your magazine doesn't bear hard between the action and the floorplate you should be fine.

One of the reasons I don't like those molded-in blocks is just what you've seen with that one. What if they're not straight? I always use a real fiberglass blank. I have to pass on the nice checkering and the pebble testure, but the rifles are always rock-solid when finished.

tINY
October 2, 2007, 03:11 PM
The magazine does move up and down slightly when everything's together.

I bought the damn stock on sale thinking that there would just be some relief of the barrel channel needed. I guess the monkeys weren't up to snuff the day that one went down the line......

Should I have used the Blue Playdoh, or the red???



-tINY