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tex45acp
September 23, 2007, 07:26 PM
Well guys,

I have been working in guns for over 20 years and consider myself a good gun mechanic/smith. I have built a 1911 from bare parts and modified several revolvers. Today I ran into a problem that I can't seem to get a handle on. I recently bought a 77' model BHP, that shot fine, but I wanted to make some changes to fit my liking. I purchased several parts from Cylinder & Slide, a company I have bought parts from many times before. The replacement parts included a Drop In Trigger Pull Set, Wide Trigger and a set of nice wood grips. I installed the parts and on my first outing ran into something that really baffles me. The first shot goes off fine and the gun cycles perfectly, but I cannot pull the trigger and make the gun go off a second shot. If I gently pull the slide to the rear about 1/8" and release it then pull the trigger, the gun goes off again, but also again locks up, a simple rear nudge releases whatever is causing the problem. I tore the gun apart double checking everything and it is all correctly installed. I did find one thing, the spring under the sear lever is not there. Whe pressing the lever there is no resistance and the lever will stay down on the side pushed. Everywhere I have read, the BHP was designed to operate without that spring. If that is the case, what could be causing it to do this. I dimensionally checked the replacement parts and they match the originals. Any help would be appreciated.

tex

Jim Watson
September 23, 2007, 07:32 PM
Never heard of such a thing, although the modification that calls for drilling a new sear lever pivot pin hole through the slide can screw the gun up.

Still got the original parts?
You could try swapping Browning and aftermarket stuff around to isolate the bad actor.

tex45acp
September 23, 2007, 07:38 PM
No such mods done. All parts were drop in.

HammerBite
September 23, 2007, 09:41 PM
I suspect that the trigger lever is being bound somehow in its fore and aft movement. After the first shot the slide comes forward and the nose of the sear lever pushes the trigger lever forward. When you release the trigger the trigger lever does not snap back under the sear lever. Your cure for the situation (nudging the slide) indicates that slide motion can relieve the binding when the trigger has been released. There appears to be no way the slide can interfere with the trigger lever when the trigger lever is fully descended, however the trigger lever does pass close to the chamber ramp. If the trigger lever was bent inward (to the left) there might be interference between it and the ramp, or between it and the slide when the lever is up (trigger pulled).

I would try mounting the slide on the frame without the barrel and cycle the slide to see if the disconnect/connect functions operate normally. If they don't, then the slide is part of the problem with the trigger pulled, if they do, then the chamber ramp must be part of the problem. You could then position the barrel in its normal position in the frame (sans slide) and investigate the situation.

Other than that, I am out of ideas.

4V50 Gary
September 23, 2007, 09:43 PM
What HammerBite says. Sounds like the trigger isn't resetting.

James K
September 23, 2007, 10:10 PM
I will post what I said on another site FWIW.

"If the slide is drilled for the sear lever spring, the first thing to do is to install one. The older guns didn't have it, but the newer ones have a slightly different lever that is intended to work with a spring, and its absence will cause exactly the condtion reported. If that doesn't help, then I would look at the trigger lever engagement."

Jim

Scorch
September 24, 2007, 12:37 AM
I would look at the disconnector or the trigger bar. I also believe it is not resetting.

HammerBite
September 24, 2007, 04:41 AM
It also occurs to me that you should ckeck to see that the trigger lever is fully descended out of possible reach of the sear lever when the trigger is released.

tex45acp
September 25, 2007, 06:27 PM
Thank You All,

Your input was very valuable, but the problem ended up being the end of the new trigger's body. I finally used the trigger pivot pin and mounted both on it, side by side, to visually check for any differences. The new trigger's body was approximately 3/32" longer on the back end where the Mag Safety would mount. I took it to my bench grinder and ground it to the same length as the original trigger and chamfered all corners. I re-installed the trigger and shot 50rounds without any hangups.

tex

HammerBite
September 26, 2007, 01:14 AM
I love those "drop in" parts! Thanks for posting the resolution of the problem.

Harry Bonar
September 27, 2007, 03:32 PM
Sir:
As I've said many times, "There are NO drop-in parts". NONE!

That cylinder & slide trigger is a great one but it does need fitting.
Harry B.