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View Full Version : What waterfowling gear do you use?


Lavid2002
April 26, 2007, 06:39 PM
Hey there guys.....For waterfowling im making a list of thing me and my friend have and need some advice on what gear you prefer in the field to make life easier? So far I have
*Chest waders (neoprene camo)
*Shotgun DUHHH
*Decoys w/ weights
*Camo hat
*Thermals
*Wool fingerless gloves (for ease of safety and trigger/action operation)
*Milk crates (to sit on)
*Camo bag to carry-Food-water-emergency medical tools-ex clothing
*A 16' canoe
*Good jacket-brown
*Hand warmers
Is there anything i'm missing? Please be picky!

P.S. I'm considering but need an opinion on the
*Electric socks-too keep them warm (Last year I almost lost a toe)
*Decoy bag
*Good field bag(for shells, calls, etc....)
*Binoculars
What do you think???

skeeter1
April 26, 2007, 11:48 PM
I'll suggest one more thing, but this is a serious commitment -- a good Labrador retriever. A fine dog is a welcome addition to just about any hunt.

zoomie
April 27, 2007, 12:34 AM
Calls?

Lavid2002
April 29, 2007, 05:50 PM
considereing a good call for this fall, But I can't do the dog....my dog has a broken leg and she cannot run anymore, another dog would be out of the question for the following reason
*Finances-A good hunting dog is exspencive to train
*weather-It would be snowing and the dow would shurley get hypothermia in munutes
*Space in the house-One dog lying in the traffic areas of the house-the kitchen when im cooking and have to moove fast is enough! : D I think she does it on purpose...I still luv the little speed bump that she is though (golden retriever-7yrs)

Lavid2002
April 29, 2007, 09:39 PM
bump

FirstFreedom
April 29, 2007, 11:34 PM
Aside from calls, I might recommend:

-Oars for canoe & shotguns shells for shotgun (don't think you listed these :) ). You need steel shot, or bismuth/tungsten shot, to be legal (enviro-friendly).

-Camo face-covering

-Flop-top mitten/gloves instead of fingerless gloves. These are mittens that can flop open to allow your fingers out of them, and a very thin inner complete glove inside.

-extra complete change of clothing. Leave in the pickup. If you fall in the water (if water comes up over the waders), you can go change in the pickup instead of having to go home or freeze to death (2 less desirable options).

-forget the battery socks. Just make sure that your wader's boots are oversized. Then wear one pair of thick merino lambswool socks over a pair of thin silk or polypropylene socks, with a lot of dead air space in the boot. The dead air space (looseness) is more important than the thickness of the sock(s), or sock material, for max warmth.

-Small sharp knife to field dress game.

Lavid2002
April 30, 2007, 05:24 PM
Great!

lockedcj7
April 30, 2007, 06:00 PM
I've duck hunted a lot and I can tell you this...

There are as many ways to hunt them as there are species. Each type has a mission-specific set of gear. I hunt swamps from the bank or a float-tube and I use a deer cart to get everything to the hole. I've also floated rivers in a canoe and hunted on lakes from a 16' bass boat and even a pontoon. Sea-duck hunters often use lay-out boats and field hunters use pit blinds, coffin blinds and snow sleds.

A few observations I've made:

Your gun will get muddy, scratched, submerged and abused. 12ga, 3" synthetic is pretty standard. Camo synthetic is even better. A 20ga or 2 & 3/4" 12ga will do the job but you really need 3" to not be handicapped. 3.5" is for guys who are compensating.

Buy premium shells. It's the cheapest part of the hunt and you might not shoot a full box in a season depending on where you hunt. If you miss or cripple, you'll blame the shells if they're cheap.

Don't worry about the dog. You'll be near death long before he is. If you are hunting in weather cold enough (sub-zero) to be dangerous for the dog, you are in serious danger as well. It's not worth it. Ducks don't taste very good anyway.

Get a book or video and practice identifying birds in flight. Go to a refuge in the off-season and practice. Each species has a different bag limit. You must ID the birds before you squeeze the trigger.

I use a catalytic heater in the blind if it's cold enough. Carry several pairs of gloves (they'll all get wet) and several waterproof ways to start a fire. Duck hunters die every year because they got wet and couldn't get dry.

Get the Cabelas waterfowl catalog and drool.

I'm sure I'll think of more later.

Lavid2002
April 30, 2007, 09:05 PM
gotcha.....but what do you mean sart a fire....its all marshland what am i to burn? shouldnt I simply race back to the truck and head to the closest home?

WeedWacker
May 1, 2007, 01:53 AM
Chokes! If it's windy or the birds are high a full choke is a must. Geese usually fly high so again full is good. I see you also forgot ammo :p good to have that stuff. A 6 with modified for ducks at low altitude on calm days, 4 on windy days and BB 3" magnum for geese

lockedcj7
May 1, 2007, 12:06 PM
If it's that cold, the 30 - 45 min. it would take to get back to my truck could cost me my life. Where I hunt, there is plenty of dead wood above the water line and plenty of dry patches of ground to build a fire on.

Lavid2002
May 1, 2007, 02:44 PM
yep, have the chokes on the shotgun i have improved and modified i can change with my fingers if needed, and I want to start loading my shotgun shotshells as well : D