View Full Version : H&R model #999, need some help
March 1, 2007, 02:00 PM
I was given an H & R Model #999, nine-shot .22 Caliber pistol. It is a top break action. Unfortunatley, it is missing a good number of parts, mostly related to the trigger group, trigger guard and mainspring area. I'm needing some help identifying it, so I can buy the proper parts to bring it back to life.
The gun is in good shape, with minimal handling wear to it's blueing. The main issues seem to be someone took it apart to do a trigger job and never got it back together, in the meantime losing a goodly number of parts. Since I don't have anything in the pistol, I feel I could restore it and have it running as a nice little .22 revolver. The top half (cylinder area) of the gun and the hinge area are in good shape.
The gun has "Sportsman" on the left side of the barrel, is marked as a Model 999 and was made in Gardner, Mass. The serial number is AX07XXXX.
Thank you for your assistance,
March 1, 2007, 03:36 PM
Here is a place that might have the parts
The H&R 999 is probably the best .22 revolver H&R ever made.
March 1, 2007, 04:01 PM
Yes, I've been to Numrich Arms website. The problem is they have a bunch of variations of parts for this model. I need to figure out which variation I have.
March 1, 2007, 11:45 PM
Well, the AX series comes after the AL, so that should help. They went A to Z, to AA-AZ, BA and so on. If you work that way, and disregard the nickel or the blue as appropriate, I think you will be able to get what you want.
If in doubt, write them with all the gun info; they are used to that situation, so don't worry.
One tip. If the mainspring guide is one of the parts you need, DO NOT buy the plastic head one, they always break. Buy the later version.
March 2, 2007, 07:22 AM
That's the information I was looking for. I have a question for you though. You stated: "One tip. If the mainspring guide is one of the parts you need, DO NOT buy the plastic head one, they always break. Buy the later version."
My hammer has a small divot in it about where the mainspring guide would go and looks to take the mainspring guide that isn't the plastic one or the metal one shaped like the plastic one. Am I right in thinking I should buy the one Gun parts shows as assembly 37 complete, rather than 37A (the Plastic or metal one shaped like the plastic one)?
This is the part I'm most concerned about getting right.
March 2, 2007, 10:53 PM
My error, you are correct. You need the one numbered 37, which is the latest and the one that works OK. Since the whole thing comes as an assembly, you only need to set it in place and pull out the little wire. If you only need one part, you can order that way, but getting the whole assembly may be easier and not very expensive.
March 3, 2007, 09:33 PM
Thanks for the information, what do you mean by "set in place and pulling out the little wire?" Unfortunately, I didn't have all the parts when I got this pistol and I've never seen a whole one, so I'm somewhat at a loss.
Also, would you perhaps have a tip or two on adjusting item 33 in the gun parts diagram, the level and spring assy.? They only sell a generic one now and I'll have to fit it, so I'm looking for tips on what to look for while doing so.
March 3, 2007, 11:10 PM
There is a cross hole in the bottom of the guide (look at # 38). To remove the assembly, you cock the hammer, the hole end sticks down below the guide seat, and you stick a paper clip or a piece of wire through the hole and let the hammer down. Then you can remove the whole assembly as a unit, like it shows in 37A.
In my experience, when you order the mainspring guide, spring and guide seat, they come assembled as a unit, with a short piece of wire through the hole. You insert the unit into the frame, get it in place, cock the hammer and pull out the wire with a pair of pliers.
On the "lever" (everyone else calls it a hand), the lifter pin sticks through the trigger on the left side and the lever goes onto that. The spring drops into the little hole in the trigger. You want the .22 lever.
The only thing that might require fitting is the lever spring. Sometimes they come too long. When you install the lever, put the spring in the hole first, then put the lever onto the lifter pin. Make sure the lever will work right. If it won't go far enough forward, try taking a tiny amount off the spring a little at a time until the lever works as it should. If you take too much off, don't order a new lever; you can buy spring steel at most hardware stores and big box stores for a buck or so for a couple of feet, and it is easy to just replace the spring.
Also to assemble that gun, you will need slave pins for the trigger guard. (I have been informed that it is now politically correct to call them "helper" pins, but old habits die hard.) Those are pins that are a bit smaller in diameter than the trigger guard pins and a tad shorter than the trigger guard is wide. You put in parts like the sear and spring, then insert the slave pin to hold them while you install the trigger guard. When it is in the right place, you drive in the trigger guard pin, driving out the slave pin. Without slave pins, you would go nuts trying to put that gun back together.
March 3, 2007, 11:18 PM
Thank you for the information. That should get me through the job easy enough and I appreciate the tip on the spring steel. I have the old part, but it doesn't appear to be a piece of spring steel inserted into the part, it appeared to be all one piece, but it also looked like someone had hacked it up and ruined the part. I'll take a closer look and fix it with spring steel if possible.
March 4, 2007, 08:42 PM
Good luck in trying to fix the old part. It should look like the picture in the diagram.
October 20, 2015, 04:21 PM
H & R 999 AU code 1980. I recently bought it at a pawn shop. When I purchased it their gunsmith had had it for about 3 months. It would not extract reliable. The gunsmith said that he could not find parts for it. I replaced the hook, slide, and pivot bolt. That fixed the ejection problem. The gun works fine except I cannot remove the cylinder. The pawn shop man implied that his gunsmith may have replaced the cylinder catch. There seem to be no movement when the release is depressed.
Any idea on removing the cylinder without depressing the release? I have a
new catch on the way however, I have never seen what is visible with the
cylinder removed. I don't want to damage anything other than maybe the
catch. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
November 22, 2015, 07:58 PM
Tapped the cylinder off with a plastic hammer, replaced the catch, problem solved.
I think that the old catch was "out of the slot", but I don't know for sure. In any case, it works fine now.
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