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Paper Cutter
October 27, 2006, 02:00 AM
I've recently inherited a Savage Model 23D .22 Hornet and a Sako Vixen .222 Rem.

I read there was a difference in a .22 Hornet and a .22 K Hornet. One respondent told me to look up the number to know what I have for the Savage.

I am curious how much it would cost (approximately) to rechamber the .22 for the .22 K, if in fact it turns out that I do have the .22 Hornet (less the "K").

Same question for the Sako. I've seen several Sako's on eBay rechambered from .222 to .223. What is the price range for rechambering work?

Aside from readily available ammo, what are the advantages of .223 over .222? Is one more accurate than the other?

Any thoughts are happily received.

Jim Watson
October 27, 2006, 08:37 AM
The K-Hornet is blown out slightly larger and straighter for more powder capacity and a little more velocity. Repeat SLIGHTLY. K-Hornet was never a factory chambering in Savage or Winchester rifles of the day. If your Savage is a K, then it has already been rechambered. K-Hornet was never a factory cartridge, you would be 100% dependent on handloading.

The original .222 Remington was the most accurate cartridge of its day. A .222 Sako held the benchrest record for some time. Going to .223 would ONLY get you the capability of shooting cheap surplus ammo in a rifle that deserves better.
If the Sako has a detachable magazine, I would not count on it handling .223s, it is pretty short for .222 in the first place since the rifle was originally designed for .22 Hornet and .218 Bee (actually probably for 7x33 but let's don't get into that).

Both these rifles have some collector interest, a Savage 23D and a Sako old enough to be marked Vixen. Rechambering would wipe that out for little or no advantage in the shooting.

I would leave them alone and apply the $100 or so it would cost to rechamber each of them to some loading dies and brass.

Paper Cutter
October 27, 2006, 02:24 PM
Jim,

Thank you. I am not particularly interested in surplus ammo, so it's easier to leave them as they are.

Now, you mentioned taking the money saved from rechambering and investing that in handloading equipment. Is there any kind of Idiots Guide to Handloading? How time/labor intensive is it to get started?

Again, any thoughts appreciated.

Clemson
October 27, 2006, 02:36 PM
You have inherited two very fine rifles. Take care of them!

One really good way to start handloading is to take the NRA Handloading course. You can find a guide to course locations on the NRA website at http://www.nrahq.org/education/training/find.asp

Clemson

UniversalFrost
October 27, 2006, 02:57 PM
Hornady also offers an online e-course for handloading and an advanced e-course for long range shooting on their website. There are also lots of videos and books out there on the subject. Go over to the reloading portion of the forum and check out all the info they have to offer. it requires a lot of attention to detail and time, but after you figure out how to do it (and do it right) you will love it. Also, don't buy junk, invest in high quality reloading equipment, but some setups from Lee can be had for uner 150 complete (minus a hand primer and a good scale). Lee is a good beginners setup or for those who don't reload in volume. Also start slow and don't jump right into a progressive press until you know what you are doing.

Paper Cutter
October 28, 2006, 11:10 PM
Thank you for the references. Looks like I've got some reading to do.

Jim Watson
October 29, 2006, 11:44 AM
'The ABCs of Handloading' is a usual recommendation.
There is an NRA introductory book in your NRA catalog of logo merchandise. (You ARE an NRA member, aren't you?)
There are videos on the subject, one guy here got a lot out of the Sierra version.

Any of the handloading manuals will have most of the information you need to get started. If you lean towards Lee to save money, their book is ok and is of course one long advertisement for their products.

Lyman's 48th Edition is good.