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travelerBT
October 11, 2006, 02:35 PM
I just replaced my trigger in my custom 1911 that I built, and there is a lot of take up in it. I have seen triggers that have the take up tabs out there and I am wandering just how those work, and how difficult it is to adjust them.

Also, is there a way to adjust the take up on triggers that don't have the take up tabs??

thanks

:confused: :D :confused:

Wildalaska
October 11, 2006, 02:56 PM
take it to a gunsmith. if you dont know how to adjust a 1911 trigger, you shouldnt be working on fire control parts based on what some folks on the net will tell you.

WildsimpleanswerAlaska

travelerBT
October 11, 2006, 03:00 PM
Thanks for the reply, but I would really like to know how to do this. I have built the pistol from the ground up and it is a great firearms, so I know a fair amount about building, and gunsmithing on the 1911 platform.

Just never used those tabs... so if you could please explain how to adjust them that would be great.

Wildalaska
October 11, 2006, 03:03 PM
what make is the trigger?

WildcuriousAlaska

travelerBT
October 11, 2006, 03:16 PM
It is a Dlask Arms trigger...




thanks...http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5767&title=SEMI-AUTO+ULTRA-LIGHT+TRIGGERS

Wildalaska
October 11, 2006, 03:26 PM
ha...gunsmith

WildthatsitformycontribfornowAlaska

travelerBT
October 11, 2006, 03:38 PM
So which trigger should I use? I just liked the look of the Dlask trigger...

RR
October 12, 2006, 07:55 AM
travelerBT, check out:

http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0407.htm

Please excuse WildIgetoffonbeingrudetopeopleinAlaska.

Wildalaska
October 12, 2006, 12:14 PM
Rude to tell someone who doesnt know how to adjust a trigger to go see a gunsmith?

Probably more rude if he screws it up and has an AD

WoutofthewoodworkAlaska

Hunter Customs
October 12, 2006, 12:49 PM
Brazoscustom has done a good job about explaining about triggers. Keep in mind that without enough free-travel or take-up as some call it in the trigger the gun can go full auto.
Most smiths will recommend at least 0.040 of free-travel.

As for methods of accomplising the adjustment of free-travel I've seen just about everything.
Now a days a lot of triggers will have adjustment tads that can be bent to accomplish the adjustment.
Other methods I've seen are, set screws installed in the trigger scallop on the off hand side, shims soldered on the back of the trigger stirrup, and the back of the stirrup center punched to create a raised area in the stirrup.

As for what trigger to use, I would say to use the one that you like best.

Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com

rellascout
October 12, 2006, 01:33 PM
Rude to tell someone who doesnt know how to adjust a trigger to go see a gunsmith?

Probably more rude if he screws it up and has an AD

WoutofthewoodworkAlaska

Wild you are so silly. Why would he need to go to t gunsmith. He knows what he is doing. He posts a questions about standard trigger take up and then about full length guide rods in a a matter of minutes.

Triggers are not really an important part of the gun are they? :p

WildsomepeoplegetitsomepeopledontAlaska

travelerBT
October 12, 2006, 05:52 PM
I appreciate the replies, I took out the trigger that I have last night, and it does have the tabs for adjustment. I was reading the article given above, and it says to bend the tabs "forward" to reduce the take up... I am assuming that forward is tword the actual trigger???? And I don't really see how that is going to reduce the take up???? Could someone explain to me how the tabs work for taking out the take up???

Thanks for all the posts folks....:eek:

travelerBT
October 12, 2006, 06:05 PM
for those who are wandering, the tabs prevent the trigger from moving forward as far... guess that is pretty self explanitory :D Oh well, thanks everyone for the info! Have a great day folks!:cool:

RR
October 12, 2006, 06:43 PM
Your welcome.

RRhelpingpeopleoutiswhatthisforumisforNotinAlaska

Wildalaska
October 12, 2006, 07:16 PM
Helping folks out includes those that can be harmed by an amatuer trigger job done by netsmiths...

WildheanyoneknowhowtosutureanaorticanuerismivegotanopenchesthereandiveneverdoneonebeforeAlaska

Venison_Jerkey32
October 12, 2006, 07:36 PM
I'm sorry wild but I just didn't get your last signature, what is

sutureanaorticanuerism?

Wildalaska
October 12, 2006, 07:42 PM
OOps

WildsutureanaorticaneurysmAlaska

Harry Bonar
October 21, 2006, 08:18 PM
Dear Souls;
I'm 70 now and you guys just went straight over my head1 But -----------------------------I don't like tabs.
Harry B.

M1911
October 21, 2006, 08:27 PM
I just hope that TravelerBT is pulling our legs.

Either that or that he's in a different state than I.

erh
November 5, 2006, 09:08 AM
"I think you all should listen to Ken..." In fact take a look see at his outfit:

www.wildwestguns.com

"He knows what he's talkin' about..."

The only really bad advise (As I see it...) would be feeling like that just because someone has the mechanical abilities to put several pieces together, that they can safely perform a 1911's trigger adjustment from reading it on a handgun forum... IT IS NOT OK in MY opinion... I do feel that a true pistol-smith should perform this function...
Although a person may now get the "Gist" of it... For safety sake a professional should do it...
("I'm going along the lines that I'm sure you've assembled a nice handgun, but SAFETY is the key to success,
and the safety of those lives ALL around you...")

IMHO - this IS a job for a qualified "Gunsmith..!"

E!

My apologies for anyone who MAY be offended;
that is just the way I see it...
(By the way... I'm a Pistol-smith too...)

*** As someone (-V-V-) down there noted, I need to do this...

My apologies for the "Tirade..." I've been having an incredibly tense buncha weeks here as of late, and I had no right to insult anyone.
"Please accept my sincerest apologies... As also noted, this IS a public forum where people come to try & learn."

E!

RR
November 7, 2006, 11:35 AM
"Numb-Sculls"

erh--name calling. Isn't this the Firingline forum?


I suggest that you send an apology to Bob Londrigan who posted the following on his site: http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0407.htm, a link to which was provided on this thread.

While you are at it, I suggest that you contact Jack Weigand (a guild member), who posted the following: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=1&i=349 and advise him that he is also a "numb scull" for putting this dangerous information on the web. Finally, you may wish to send an apology to Bob Hunter of Hunter Customs who posted on this thread.


I recall this forum being one where information was freely shared. Apparently, in the past few years a number of "bullys" have appeared who feel they must protect the public from information. They don't add anything to the discussion and only serve to further inflate their egos. Sad that such behavior is tolerated by the moderators.

Unclenick
November 7, 2006, 05:37 PM
TravelerBT,

Without getting into the controversy, let me throw out a caution. A lot of bullseye shooters, in particular, prefer a very light trigger. Back when I was still active in bullseye (early to mid 80's), standard practice was to keep the trigger pulled while you depressed the slide stop to let the slide go forward to chamber a round. This keeps the disconnector from popping up and letting the trigger bow contact the sear through it until after everything comes to rest, same as when firing a round. These light trigger guns can fire during loading if you don't take that precaution. Don't ask how I know.

The problem, as the experienced 'smiths will find all too familiar, especially with the massive steel Gold Cup triggers more common back then, resulted from the slide's inertia jerking the frame forward when the gun locks into battery. Called "hammer following", if the trigger press weight is too light, it's mechanism can't pass the forward momentum to the trigger without dropping the hammer. This is why that massive steel Goldcup trigger requires a little spring-loaded sear buffer.

The low mass of modern skeletonized aluminum and composite triggers have largely mitigated this problem, especially for standard width triggers with no shoe added. However, I am still in the habit of testing 1911 mechanisms for it. I hold and balance them, unloaded (double-checked), tilting muzzle-up in counterbattery, by pinching the mainspring housing retaining pin between my thumb and index finger. I then depress the slidestop with my other hand. I repeat several times. If the hammer ever falls when the slide goes home, I don't consider the gun safe for general use.

My point in mentioning all this is, the longer the take-up in the trigger, the more distance the disconnector spring leaf has over which to assist in overcoming trigger inertia before it pushes against the sear. The more you reduce take-up, the more likely hammer following is to occur. Obviously, the lighter you make the trigger, the more concerned you need to be about it. As a precaution, do the test and see what happens? I advise against reducing take-up unless it bothers you or interferes with getting your finger promptly into the trigger guard while bringing the gun up on target. It typically is more bothersome if you choose a long trigger over the standard length ones because this gives your finger a smaller opening to find.

Nick

erh
November 7, 2006, 10:10 PM
I have appologized by amending my tirade from before...

Sorry all..!

E!