View Full Version : Marlin 336 Ejector
October 3, 2006, 11:09 PM
This past weekend I picked up an older Marlin 336 for $200 at the local gun show and the gentleman I bought it from said he'd never had problems with the gun, but it had been shot and "been in the woods" quite a bit. The bore looks good and their is no pitting or rusting on the metal. I say all that to say the rifle is in good shape, but today I took it out shoot it and it failed to eject nearly every time I shot. I was shooting Monarch (brass) from Academy since I haven't had time to roll up any handloads this week. The rifle failed to eject 5 out of the 7 times I tried to shoot it, so I finally gave up! I haven't taken the bolt out yet, but from what I can tell the ejector does look a little worn.
Will a new ejector solve my problems, and if so is the "bear proof" ejector
($24) sold at Brownell's worth twice the money as the Marlin ejector ($11)?
Thanks for any help!!!
October 4, 2006, 12:49 AM
Numrich has them a lot cheaper when they have them in stock, for around $8if memory serves me right. I have never had a problem out of the factory ejectors when replacing them. I wouldn't spend the extra money myself, but that is up to you.
Check some other sources such as MidwayUSA and some cowboy shooting places to see if you can find it cheaper than $11. Up to you but a dollar saved adds up at times.
October 4, 2006, 09:18 AM
I would go with the standard OEM part as well. I really don't think Brownells part will be $5.00 more better than factory.
October 4, 2006, 11:53 AM
Being the Board representative of the company that makes the ejectors, I can assure you that they are tougher and better ;)
October 4, 2006, 01:39 PM
What makes them special, Wild if you don't mind can you fill me in on them? I have only had to replace two over the years and one of them was lost when cleaning the gun. Did not realize the OEM part had failure problems.
October 4, 2006, 01:41 PM
One piece EDM'd out of spring steel and made thicker in stress spots
We have sold over 2,000 with nary a return
October 4, 2006, 01:43 PM
How does that compare to the OEM parts though, did you find a bunch of them were needing to be replaced? I haven't heard anything on them and am just curious.
October 4, 2006, 01:51 PM
We have seen too many breakages at the wrong time
October 4, 2006, 04:03 PM
Could the temperature extreme that you live in have something to do with it? Down here in the south, I have seen these guns shoot a lot of rounds without ever having seeing but one failure out of a large number of the guns. Down here, most families have one in the gun cabinet and they get a good bit of use through the years. Just curious if you thought the cold air may possibly be making the steel brittle somehow and is the problem with the breaking. Then again, do you see failure on the larger caliber guns more so than the 30/30 or do you think the larger case may have something to do with the failure of the ejector.
I think this is why I have the opinion that I do of them around this area. I would definitely agree if you are going to be spending time in the bear woods, you don't won't an ejection failure at all.
October 4, 2006, 05:16 PM
My '64 Marlin in 30.30 is about a few boxes shy of becoming a smoothbore, and it's still got the original ejector. Maybe it is something about Texas...
October 4, 2006, 06:36 PM
I have one that has probably a thousands rounds through it over the years and it has never hiccupped. This is why I am so curious about it.
October 4, 2006, 11:19 PM
Just looked a little further into my rifle, and I will explain the problem further after I clear up my screw ups! First of all, it is a Model 30AS, not a 336 as I previously thought (thought all Marlin lever 3030's were 336). Secondly, I believe my EXTRACTOR is the problem, not the ejector!
Now, the problem is that the EXTRACTOR did not appear to be engaging the rim on the brass I was shooting, therefore the rifle would not eject the rounds. I ended up digging the 4-5 that i did shoot with my pocket knife. I hope this helps, please tell me I'm right and I do need an EXTRACTOR!!!
October 4, 2006, 11:58 PM
I'm assuming everything is cleaned and oiled?
October 5, 2006, 12:47 AM
Remove the bolt and put a round up under the extractor hook and shake the bolt around. It should hold the case up against the bolt face and shouldn't just fall off. If it does, the springout needs to be checked out as well as the hooks engagement angle needs to be positive.
Wear can and will wear out the hook so it needs to be relatively sharp and the bottom of the leading edge needs a little chanfer on it so rounds don't stub on it. The extractor cut in the barrel also needs to be where the bolt close and the extractor hook isn't forced away from the case.
Check first to make sure the hook is still there by the way, a lot of folks used to break the spring loaded extractor when they cleaned them and somtimes they just break off. Let me know how it turns out.
November 13, 2006, 06:49 PM
After much reservation about disassembling my rifle, I dove in head first and replaced the extractor. I disassembled, repaired and re-assembled in less than 10 minutes. I will include the instructions I used below:
Marlin 336/1895 Disassembly/Assembly Instructions
--Don't assume that any two screws in this dissassembly process are identical. Make sure you keep track of where you got the screws. Assume that they are all different lengths, diameters, etc.
--Front is toward muzzle. Back is toward Buttstock.
1. Disassemble as shown in manual.
2. Remove screw from tang which holds buttstock in place. This is the screw behind the hammer on top of the buttstock--next to the serial number on the non-Cowboy models.
3. Remove buttstock, take gun off safe.
4. While holding hammer, depress the small protrusion behind the trigger (on the underside of the receiver). While protrusion is depressed, pull the trigger and allow the hammer to move SLOWLY to the full forward position. DO NOT ALLOW THE HAMMER TO SNAP FORWARD UNCONTROLLED WHILE THE GUN IS NOT FULLY ASSEMBLED.
5. Push the top of the mainspring keeper toward the right side of the rifle and out of contact with the tang of the receiver and the trigger guard plate. NOTE: The spring is still under tension, be sure to control the spring and keeper as the mainspring keeper slides out of its track.
6. Remove large screw (hammer screw) from right side plate. Press trigger slightly and remove hammer out the top of the receiver. Don't release the trigger until the hammer is all the way out of the receiver. If you let up on the trigger before you get the hammer pulled all the way out, the hammer gets in sort of a bind. If this happens, don't panic, just keep fiddling around and it will eventually pull out.
7. Remove large screw from the left sideplate. Remove large screw from the bottom front of the trigger guard plate. (THESE TWO SCREWS ARE SHORT BUT NOT THE SAME. THE LONGER ONE GOES IN THE BOTTOM FRONT OF THE TRIGGER GUARD PLATE. REMOVE THIS ONE LAST AND HAVE THE GUN UPSIDE DOWN DURING THIS OPERATION. KEEP IT THERE UNTIL YOU REINSTALL THE TRIGGER PLATE)
8. Gently tap the trigger guard plate downward out of the receiver. Remove the bolt locking block from the bottom of the receiver. NOTE: During reassembly, the forked portion of the locking block points upward, and the "hook" at the bottom of the block points toward the butt of the gun.
9. Remove the screw on the right sideplate immediately forward of the safety button. Remove shell carrier from the bottom of the receiver.
Reassemble in reverse order.
NOTE: When installing hammer, position hammer in the fully rearward (cocked) postion, press the trigger to the rear and align hammer with screw channel then insert screw.
NOTE: When installing mainspring keeper, install mainspring in its forward engagement with hammer then push mainspring keeper in from the rear until the bottom of the keeper snaps into the groove in the triggerguard plate--the spring pressure will hold it in place. The hammer must be forward for this operation.
This is the procedure to remove the forearm from a Guide Gun. Part names are from Model 1895G Owner's Manual. Submitted by Mark (tcmkj) with a reassembly note from Marko (Starrbow)
1. Unload the rifle. Visually and physically inspect the chamber to ensure that the rifle is unloaded. While the action is open ensure that you can see the magazine follower and that no rounds are in the magazine tube.
2. Place the receiver in a vice or have someone hold the rifle so that you have access to the forearm. Pad the vice to keep from marring the bluing.
3. Remove the magazine plug screw.
4. Remove both of the forearm tip tenon screws. Leave the forearm tip on the forearm.
5. The magazine tube and the forearm separate from the barrel as a unit. Hold the magazine plug firmly in place as the follower spring pushes against the plug. Separate the barrel and the magazine tube until the magazine tube is just free of the stud(about 3/8 of an inch). The forearm required some force and came loose suddenly. The forearm tip will prevent the tube and barrel from separating much further.
6. Carefully remove the magazine tube plug while keeping your hand wrapped around the magazine tube. When the plug clears the magazine tube the spring will snake out of the tube. The spring is not difficult to contain if you are prepared.
7. You should now hold the magazine tube plug and the follower spring with no pressure on the uncoiled spring. If the follower spring looped back on itself while uncoiling, carefully untangle the spring. Remove the spring from the magazine tube.
8. Carefully slide the forearm tip off of the forearm and off of the magazine tube.
9. Pull the magazine tube and the forearm forward and away from the barrel until completely separated. The forearm fits tightly to the receiver and may take a little pressure.
9. Remove the magazine tube from the forearm. Turn the tube until the bulge at the back of the tube is clear of the forearm. Pull the tube either forward or backwards out of the forearm.
10. The magazine tube follower may have remained in the receiver or it may still be in the magazine tube. In either case the follower slides out easily.
NOTE: To reinstall forearm and mag tube, put the mag tube in the forearm and at a 45degree angle insert both at the same time into the receiver, if you have a 444/45-70 , insure the bulge on the mag tube is lined up with the recess of the forearm. Do not force it--move it around a bit and things will slip into place.
Reverse the procedure to reassemble the rifle.
Here is a pic for you:
November 13, 2006, 09:38 PM
Glad you got it back to working right for you John. Now if only you can find a deer to try it out on.
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