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alexander hamilton
September 11, 2006, 08:41 PM
i have 2 large ring mausers. i thought i would keep one original and "sporterize" the other. i am an experienced engine builder with little to zero gunsmithing experience. just how hard is it to rechamber and rebarrel a mauser. i am also wondering if anyone has experience with the advanced technology stock? i am just wondering how solid a scope mount could be if its on the stock instead of the reciever. any opinions? i am kind of envisioning a .243 varmint gun coming from all of this.

cntryboy1289
September 11, 2006, 09:53 PM
I would think that if you are a mechanic, it wouldn't be too hard for you to finish chambering a short chambered barrel for your Mauser. A tap wrench to hold the reamer and the finishing reamer of the caliber you want along with a barrel vise and a receiver wrench with some antisieze compound will get the job done rather quickly for you.

You can rent the reamer from several places but I like to use these folks:

http://www.reamerrentals.com/chamber_reamers.htm

As far as the stock you selected, if you are going to be using a good stock, why not go ahead and get a decent stock and mount your scope base to the top of the receiver, I think you will be much happier this way. The one you asked about I have not seen personally, but if the stock is made of wood, I know the scope mount cannot be very sturdy, even if it is a fiberglass stock as well.

You can use something along the lines as the Wheeler scope mounting jig that you can get from MidwayUSA, or if you have access to a mill and a edge finder and a couple of good drills and taps of the size you choose, 6x48 or 8x40, you should be able to drill it and tap it as well.

I have to warn you though before you get started, it can get expensive tooling up to do this for only one rifle. If I was you and was not going to be doing this on a regular basis, I would see what your local gunsmith would charge you to do the work for you. A good barrel vise and action wrench can be made rather easily, but by the time you add your labor and the materials to build them or the cost to buy them plus rent or buy the chambering reamer plus the headspace guauges, you can normally have it done much cheaper. Best of luck with it whatever you decide to do with it.

dale taylor
September 12, 2006, 01:52 AM
A large part of the fun is doing it yourself. I bought Wheeler jig, etc. Only used once. Be sure to drill scope mountiing holes before the barrel is added. You avoid hole in chamber for sure. Have fun!! daleltaylor@att.net

Unclenick
September 12, 2006, 01:14 PM
I've never run into a stock mounted scope, but I doubt there is any way to make it as repeatable as either a barrel mounted (scout) or a receiver mounted (conventional) scope. In either of the latter cases, should the action shift in the stock, the scope will go with it, maintaining relative alignment to the bore. In the case of the scope on the stock, unless it is linked by metal parts in the stock, you are asking too significantly dissimilar materals plus bedding compound to maintain that alignment. My concern would be shift due to heating causing the different materials to expand at unacceptably different rates. But, as I say, I haven't actually tried this.

Get Jerry Kuhnhausen's book, The Mauser Bolt Actions, a Shop Manual (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=13805&title=Jerry+Kuhnhausen+SHOP+MANUALS), and read it before proceeding.

Nick

alexander hamilton
September 12, 2006, 05:05 PM
thanks for the replies fellas. all of what you have said has basically reinforced my thoughts on this. im not sure about rechambering but i think doing the scope mount is in the near future. this may be beyond the scope of this post(pun intended), but do you fellas have an opinion on 1 piece, 2 piece, weaver, picatinny, etc. mounts? btw, i successfully completed a slight smoothening of the trigger on the aforementioned mauser. i found that the triggers contact surface on the reciever must have been milled by one very dull mill. it took about 2 hours of sanding and polishing(by hand) to smooth it out.

Harry Bonar
September 12, 2006, 06:11 PM
Dear Sir:
Congratulations on your moxie!
By all means use a good stock - Boyd makes an excellent laminated stock that will be beautiful and not warp to change point of impact.
Being a mechanic I'd suggest you use the Redfield one piece base so no alteration of the rear of action needs to be done (two holes in front, one in the rear)
You can either cut the existing bolt handle down and weld or get a Brownells bolt handle and weld it on. Not to be self serving but you can find my Mauser instructions somewhere on the forum. You'll need to search.
douglas barrels in Charleston W Va can furnish you an FTC bbl that is fully chambered - all you need to do is some measuring and get your headspace figures and have a friend with a good lathe to take some off the breech.
What kind of Mauser is it - Turkish or VZ24, or what?
I'll try to find my article - it will give you a running start.
Happy times Harry B.

dale taylor
September 13, 2006, 04:35 AM
Harry Bonar has some of best advice on the net. One of my mausers is 338 WM with Douglas barrel. Bolt hande is from Brownells, welded by Jim Roberts the Boltman. It is most accurate rifle I own. daleltaylor@att.net

alexander hamilton
September 13, 2006, 09:54 AM
thanks for the input!
the mauser i am planning to "hook up" is a yugo m-48. the one i am keeping original is a german pre-war. i really want to add a vz-24 to my little collection though. i will check out the redfield one piece scope base and the barrell from douglas barrells. on the bolt handle, i was under the impression that only the straight bolts had to be modified/replaced. mine is bent. however, i guess its not quite as bent as some sporter types.

alexander hamilton
September 13, 2006, 10:19 AM
if anyone should find this threa...

i found this helpfull by mr bonar...
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161203

Harry Bonar
September 13, 2006, 11:09 AM
Alexander Hamilton:
Any help you need on your Mauser project just post it and we'll help.
I have a Yugo in the corner - you're right to save the VZ24 it's the best action but the Yugo is OK!
You can make you're own action wrench - get an 1 1/2 square bar, get a 3/8" rod and heat and bend around an 1.400" stock - mark the holes on the bar and drill (threaded rod) and use the flat on the bottom of reciever - put bolt in and unscrew bbl. If bbl is no good use pipe wrench on the bbl!!
I'd still true up face of action.
Set headspace with loaded factory Federal premium ammo - you just want to feel the bolt close on the loaded round.
Doc and I are building 9.3X64s. on vz24 and Turkish actions!
Douglas will fit your bbl for a nominal fee - be extremely careful of the "experts." An "ex" is a has been and a "spert" is a drip under pressure!
Some will tell you to have the safety lug to make contack - DO NOT! Only the two front lugs do on all Mausers!!!!! Harry B.

alexander hamilton
September 13, 2006, 12:03 PM
my current thinking on this project goes as such.
i have not even begun to handload for 8mm yet. i think i may accurize/learn some gunsmithing on the m48. thinking adjustable stock, glass bed(never tried this before), more work on trigger or possibly buy a trigger, true action(never done that either), scope it(not decided on the scope yet but the base will be redfield), and explore 8x57mm handloads. i will buy the above mentioned mauser shop manual beforehand. i figure this will be a learning gun that i dont mind messing up a little. it is a yugo after all:) . i am particularly interested in the truing of the action and lapping bolt lugs. i have tons of lapping compound laying around for doing valves so i may try that sooner rather than later. the research i have done in the last hour on this forum has turned up some excellent info. mental note: keep eyes open at gunshows for decent vz-24 action.
phew, and i thought my first gun build would be a g3.

dale taylor
September 13, 2006, 12:05 PM
I have M48 Yugo I picked up with Paul Yeager 270 barrel and double set triggers. I had to have Jim Roberts weld bolt handle from Brownells. Harry is nationally recognised expert. I'll help any way I can. daleltaylor@att.net

dfaugh
September 13, 2006, 02:09 PM
You could do alot worse:eek: than the original 8x57 caliber.

I sporterized a Turk (it was junk except the barreled action). I spent some time accumulating parts, and I only have $200 in the whole thing. One thing I find with many/most milsurps is "cleaning rod wear" at the muzzle. so I shortened the barrel and re-crowned it (it was REALLY long anyway). Found a heavy target stock at a garage sale for $8 (!!!!), drilled and tapped the scope mounts myself (2 piece)...Bent and welded (brazed) the bolt handle. Glass bedded the stock, and free-floated the barrel. also ported the barrel (I'm recoil sensitive due to a shoulder injury) and added a recoil pad.

Anyway, if you have a reasonable amount of experience with tools and such, you CAN do it yourself.

It now shoots commercial ammo at about 1 MOA, started to play with reloads.

edited to add: I'm now working ona VZ-24, that will be in 8mm-06, already have everything but the scope mount, less than $200 invested.

dale taylor
September 13, 2006, 07:43 PM
A. Hamilton look at www.surplusrifleforums.com Many tips, photos, references. Sporter(bubbizaton) at back. Dale

Clark
October 11, 2006, 12:36 AM
The AT stock is injection moulded and not strong for the weight like the good stocks. It is also not stickey for glass like the good stocks. But it is cheaper than the good stocks.

The good stocks:
1) Laminated synthetic stocks
2) Walnut stocks
3) Laminated wood stocks

The cheap stocks:
1) Hardwood walnut stain stocks
2) injection moulded synthetic stocks


The worst problem with the AT Mauser stock is that tightening the action screws causes the stock to flex and bend into contorted shapes.

alexander hamilton
October 11, 2006, 08:13 PM
yuck, im now totally turned off to that stock.

bennnn
October 12, 2006, 07:00 PM
alexander hamilton,, I'm glad you started this thread. It has already helped me today...

I'm doing almost the same thing you are, but I don't want to sporterize my shooter K98, I want to leave it as original as possible, but add a scope and make a few sleeper mods,,, like a counterbore job, ports, clean new trigger,
ect....

Hey dfaugh, this caught my eye; Glass bedded the stock, and free-floated the barrel. also ported the barrel

If you have time could you go to my K98 scope options thread and hit me with some info about what you did, and how it affected the accuracy?

Clark
October 13, 2006, 05:41 PM
The VZ24 stocks are ugly, but I have one shooting 0.4 moa.

They take glass bedding well.
I clearance around the barrel and glass the action and first 1" of barrel.

alexander hamilton
October 25, 2006, 08:35 PM
hey fellas,
i went to a local gun shop and checked out some scopes today for my project. i figured my first scope job should be less than $100 or right about that much just for the glass. i was pretty happy with the bushnell banner 1.5-4.5 scope. anyone have any input on that one? i will be using it on deer hopefully in a few weeks. the store was brightly lit so i have no idea what it will be like in the woods. also, how high should my rings be? i would rather not have to modify the safety if at all possible and the bolt is a bent unit.

thanks

MISFIRE
October 26, 2006, 01:11 AM
I have a much more basic question. Where do you all find Mausers that are worth working on? I keep reading that lots of them continue to arrive in the USA but the ones I see at gun shows and the local gun shops are junk, with worthless barrels, holes drilled in the darndest places, deep pitting, and on and on. I would like to just spiff one up in original caliber ( it's a pretty good one) new stocks, polishing, new bolt ( I would love to show my mentor how my welding skills have improved ) mount one of the scopes I have on hand, and see if I can get a good shooter for a few hundred bucks. It looks like getting a good barreled action will require forking over $300 to $400 to folks like Mitchell's Mauser. I recently bought a one hunting trip, minute of angle Savage 7mm Rem Mag, with factory installed 3-9x scope for $300 ( how a reputable gun shop can in all good conscience recommend/sell such a rig to a diminutive, 135 lb, 5'6", novice is incomprehensible at least to me) and a NIB Savage 30.06 for $289. I guess the notion of owning a genuine Mauser is just not enough of an incentive for me. .

cntryboy1289
October 26, 2006, 02:29 AM
They have numerous folks that advertise different models that sell for less than $100 that you can get and make into a nice shooter. The internet is full of companies that sell them about the same price. Mitchell's Mausers sells their stuff as top of the line Mausers that have a nice stock, but an inflated price most of the time due to folks wanting to keep the guns as collecctibles. Get yourself a shooter and make it anything you want it to be at one of the other companies.

MISFIRE
October 31, 2006, 12:39 AM
I'd like to spiff up a milsurp Mauser but I really don't want to research the whole Turk, Yugo, large ring, small ring, etc. thing. What's the order of preference for the origin, model, year, etc. for these things?

dfaugh
October 31, 2006, 03:31 PM
I have a much more basic question. Where do you all find Mausers that are worth working on?

I have a much more basic question. Where do you all find Mausers that are worth working on?

Dunno why you're having trouble finding one. Personally I like the VZ-24s, but for a little more money you can get a decent Persian (made in the Czech Republic= VZ-24). I paid $89 at Dunhams for my VZ-24. As i mentioned, the stock is pretty rough, and the crest has bben ground off, so it has no real collector value.

There's TONS of similar guns at the gunshow here, usually under $100.

Harry Bonar
November 5, 2006, 03:58 PM
Dear Sir:
Doc is coming up in a week or so with 5 Turk mod. 38 Mausers - we're building two 9.3X64 rifles and I've used Turk Mausers for many rifles - actions are heat treated very well and do fine.
As you may well know the 9.3X64 Breneke is a German caliber with the muzzle energy like the 375 H&H! It is used for the big five in Africa.
I also have a 416 Taylor (458 necked down to 416) on a Turk action - works great!
Harry B.
PS: I've shot two water buffs, a lion and Eland behind the house here in Ohio!:)

Clark
November 10, 2006, 01:44 AM
I have a much more basic question. Where do you all find Mausers that are worth working on? I keep reading that lots of them continue to arrive in the USA but the ones I see at gun shows and the local gun shops are junk, with worthless barrels, holes drilled in the darndest places, deep pitting, and on and on. I would like to just spiff one up in original caliber ( it's a pretty good one) new stocks, polishing, new bolt ( I would love to show my mentor how my welding skills have improved ) mount one of the scopes I have on hand, and see if I can get a good shooter for a few hundred bucks. It looks like getting a good barreled action will require forking over $300 to $400 to folks like Mitchell's Mauser. I recently bought a one hunting trip, minute of angle Savage 7mm Rem Mag, with factory installed 3-9x scope for $300 ( how a reputable gun shop can in all good conscience recommend/sell such a rig to a diminutive, 135 lb, 5'6", novice is incomprehensible at least to me) and a NIB Savage 30.06 for $289. I guess the notion of owning a genuine Mauser is just not enough of an incentive for me. .



The bolt actions can be put on a spectrum with flat bottomed Mausers at the right end and cheap round bottomed Rem700 at the left. Most modern bolts' atributes fall somewhere in between.

To make a $100,000 rifle that goes to the engraver, they do not start with a Rem700, but with a surplus Mauser.

To go hunting, it will be cheaper to just get a Rem700.

It is the Volkswagon vs the RollsRoyce.

cordero
November 12, 2006, 06:20 PM
Hi,
I just got a yugo 24/47 that I'm tring to sporterize and I have a couple of questions. Does any body have any experiance/opinion about the ATI scope mount(barrel mount-nondrill) or would it be better to just drill and tap?. Second, any idea where can you find new 8mm BBL? All the ones I've seen are in other caliber but I haven't been able to find the 8mm replacement:confused:

Harry Bonar
November 13, 2006, 03:08 PM
Sir:
I use the Redfield Jr. 1 piece base and find it the best!
Harry B.

Unclenick
November 13, 2006, 04:00 PM
See if e-gunparts (http://www.e-gunparts.com/) has a new 8 mm? If not, you can order one from Douglas or Shilen. These will be higher qualitiy than original. I know both companys will contour the barrel for standard sporter contours. I don't recall if either will finish one that is carbon steel? I would rust blue it myself. I also don't know if they will put a military spec finished chamber in place for drop-in fit or not? If you want best accuracy, you will want to buy it short chambered and finish ream it to your action, anyway.

Nick

cordero
November 16, 2006, 06:12 PM
you can find good mausers at www.samcoglobal.com they're from miami

ammo.crafter
November 16, 2006, 06:23 PM
I did K98 about 30 years ago and chambered it for 6m/m Remington. The project is a lot of fun and satisfying.
TAKE YOUR TIME!

cordero
November 16, 2006, 06:30 PM
Any body has any opinion on the botl bent conversion kits like the ATI? Any recs

Harry Bonar
November 16, 2006, 08:33 PM
Sir:
I use the Brownells bolt handle - $10.00 and weld it on.
Harry B.

cordero
November 19, 2006, 09:16 AM
I found that lothar-walter makes the replacement barrel for the mauser in 8mm. If I'm not changing the caliber and is just a barrel replacement, is there anything special that needs to be done for the headspaceing to be safe? Anything other that the headspace to be concern about?
Beside the barrel vise any recomendations for the action wrench or should I by one?
What about drill & tap?

Thanks

Harry Bonar
November 19, 2006, 08:58 PM
Sir:
After you have your bbl. fit I'd use the Redfield 98 Mauser Jr. base - two holes in rec. ring - one on the rear.
Always when drilling (6x48) use a smaller dril first - then ream with the 31! Get it on square! The drills might not drill through if the case-hardening is thick - use good lube, high speed if this happens and punch on through - NOT INTO THE BBL
Harry B.

cordero
November 26, 2006, 10:04 AM
I'm having second thought on keeping my mouser in 8mm. What would it take to change it to 30-06 or 7mm? Any recs or should I stay with the 8mm?

Harry Bonar
November 26, 2006, 10:33 AM
Dear Sir
The German 8X57 JS in Germany is loaded to the 50,000 cup limit - or more - here in the U.S. ammo is loaded to about 35,000cup due to the unfounded fear that some bores might be .318! As long as the neck clears it makes no difference!
The 8mm Mauser it a fine, powerful rifle - big enough for any North American game!
Load it to the 50,000 limit listed in your reloading manual.
Harry B.

alexander hamilton
November 26, 2006, 09:34 PM
i agree with harry bonar. i originally planned on changing calibers but i have since checked out the 8mm handloads in my manual. now, i think i will be quite content with 8x57.

cordero
November 29, 2006, 07:29 PM
I was going to go with your recs but it's getting had to find a 8mm barrel and the once I've found are out of my budget. I've been getting multiple stories about changin calibers. I've been told that to change to a 30-06 or 7mm I just have to cange the barrel and adjust the headspace. Can somebody please clear this out for my because I have no idea of what to do. Thanks

alexander hamilton
November 30, 2006, 11:00 PM
yeah, thats all you have to do. however, that requires at least a barrel vise, action wrench(you could make this yourself if you can weld), and headspace gauges. you may need reamers as well if you get an unfinished barrel. its not like an ar15. that sucker is put together with some effort at keeping it together.

andrew machesney
December 24, 2006, 12:57 AM
I have an 8mm 98?? barrel that I do not need. I need information about this gun. Iam very green. THANKS

andrew machesney
December 24, 2006, 01:10 AM
8mm barrel not needed. lnhyatt@sbcglobal.net

alexander hamilton
December 24, 2006, 08:10 PM
shoot, if nobody has a legitimate use for that then i will take it. i would love to have a spare.

el Divino
December 27, 2006, 08:18 PM
you could do it yourself, I have done it and I'm not any engine builder, just be aware of headspace. 243??? better 25-06.