View Full Version : Jams with a Revolver
August 17, 2000, 02:53 PM
I have an old Charter Arms .38 (undercover) special. I know it's not geared to fire Hydro-Shocks but does so very well. Except: The cylinder is starting to jam. I pull the trigger and sometimes, no matter how hard I pull, the hammer won't cock back and then slam forward. All I do is let go of the trigger, the hammer then reseats itself, then turn the cylinder with my hand until it resets itself. After that, it's good for another couple of shots before it does it again. This also happens when using normal hardball. Is the revolver over advancing or is it starting to finally fall apart? Thanks.
August 17, 2000, 05:50 PM
Probably starting to fall apart. I disassembled, cleaned, and lubed one for a friend not long ago and was shocked at how poorly made it was. On their best day they were made to undercut S&W, and many of them are getting old (considering). I'm not sure if parts are available anymore and gunsmiths just hate to work on orphan guns. Unless it's just a simple cleanup job inside the cost could easily exceed the value of the gun.
August 17, 2000, 09:01 PM
I think GPC sells parts for your revolver.
August 18, 2000, 06:42 AM
USP, GPC does sell parts for the pistol. I would advise against further use of +P ammo though. I bought one for parts recently that had three chambers of the cylinder blown out and the top strap warped from using this ammo. George
August 19, 2000, 10:41 AM
The only time I had a problem with a revolver jamming like this example was the cylinder gap being too close. It was practically touching, only a couple of thousands away. Near as I could tell, this allowed enough additional pressure to push the brass back and jam up the action. I had the gap adjusted properly, no more problems.
cuerno de chivo
August 19, 2000, 04:01 PM
even currently manufactured charter arms .38s are not +p rated. +p is a waste in short tubes anyway.
August 19, 2000, 04:55 PM
+P? Who was talking about +P ammo here? Standard 9mm HydraShok is not +P ammo.
[This message has been edited by johnwill (edited August 19, 2000).]
Juan Hunt Greer
August 19, 2000, 09:15 PM
About 20 years ago, back in St. Thomas, I was doing most of the " gun mechanic " work in our gun club, and a fellow member brought a Charter to me suffering with the same thing, as I recall, I smoothed the internals and strengthened the springs on the cyl bolt and trigger return and that took care of it. The gun is in no way the equal of a smith, though.
paranoia is a great thing to have when they actually are out to get You!
August 19, 2000, 11:40 PM
Take a look at the case heads. It sounds like the primers may be backing out due to excess headspace, which in turn is due to frame expansion from shooting hot loads. IF this is the case, there is nothing that can be done on a practical basis. Those guns were made for light duty and won't take a lot of punishment.
August 19, 2000, 11:41 PM
Take a look at the case heads. It sounds like the primers may be backing out due to excess headspace, which in turn is due to frame stretching from shooting hot loads. IF this is the case, there is nothing that can be done on a practical basis. Those guns were made for light duty and won't take a lot of punishment.
August 20, 2000, 11:08 PM
Sorry for the double post, but I will add a word about barrel-cylinder gap. A too small gap will jam the cylinder, usually because the cylinder heats up and expands, which forces it against the barrel. This is a common cause of stoppages in CAS. Another cause can be powder residue. The gap should be about .006".
August 21, 2000, 01:39 PM
Thanks all. It was an inexpensive gun anyway. I am trying to get the finances in order to get an SP101 in .357 anyway. I think this one will go into the "arsenal" as a backup or a plinker with light loads. Either that or I can use it to get "hands on" experience with gun smithing :).
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