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macondas
February 6, 2000, 11:14 AM
At the same shop they have a pair of S&W 629 classics both with the 6in barrels. They have a pretty good price on each, ~ $350. One has a pinned barrel, and the other is the newest, a "crush fit". My question is this, is either of them capable of being re-barreled? What exactly is a "crush fit"?

Thanks for your help!

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**P.P.L.L.**

George Stringer
February 6, 2000, 03:55 PM
Macondas, that will be enough of that. You're making me show my ignorance. I don't know for sure but I think that the one without the pin is just screwed tightly enough onto the frame as not to need a pin to keep it from vibrating out. I don't think I've seen a 629 with a pin or perhaps I just haven't noticed it. George

George Stringer
February 6, 2000, 03:59 PM
Macondas, I'm sorry. I missed your first question. You could rebarrel either. George

macondas
February 6, 2000, 04:08 PM
Thanks George,

I guess that once I get the money I'll have another N-frame in the house, once it get backs whomever ends up doing the work.

Can you rebarrel a Smith like this?


Jim

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**P.P.L.L.**

George Stringer
February 6, 2000, 06:22 PM
Jim, yes I can. Why don't e-mail me with what you have in mind. George

Paul B.
February 7, 2000, 12:34 PM
George. The first 629 Smiths had pinned barrels. I have one, and the barrel is pinned.
Paul B.

Kframe
February 7, 2000, 05:09 PM
S&W found that the pinned barrels didn't really need to be pinned to stay tight.
So, they got rid of them in new production.

Both styles, regardless of pinned or not, need a crush fit.
Different smiths will have different opinions, but most advocate between a 1/8 to 1/4 turn crush fit.
That means the barrel is turned on by hand until tight, and then with the appropriate tools the barrel is tightened a further 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
The goal of course is to have the barrel rib at Top-Dead-Center after the final tightening.
So, what you do is put the barrel on by hand and see where it stops. If it is greater than a quarter turn from T.D.C. you will remove it and shave some steel from the face of the barrel (only shave a very small amount at a time, <.001").
You then repeat the process until the barrel can be hand-tightened to between 1/8 and 1/4 turn from TDC, then tighten with the right tools.
Once the barrel is on the barrel to cylinder gap will be set by cutting the excess barrel shank away.
After that the forcing cone is recut and the job is done.
This can be done at home be the amateur, but you will have to buy the forcing cone tools and B/C gap tools, and you will need to have the right set-up to tighten the barrel without bending the frame.

So, it really is best to send a gun to S&W or other competent pistolsmith for rebarreling.
Odds are the results will be much better and the labor cost will probably be less (than if you bought your own tools).
FWIW, -Kframe

James K
February 7, 2000, 06:50 PM
I agree with Kframe. It is not a big job for someone with experience, but those are too nice guns to practice on and possibly ruin. It is fairly easy to twist a S&W frame in trying to rebarrel, so saving a few dollars just isn't worth it.

Jim