View Full Version : Browning HP Trigger Removal
January 19, 2000, 04:04 PM
I have always felt reasonably competent around firearms, and while I am certainly no gunsmith, detail stripping any of my guns has never been a problem. I just can't figure this one out.
How do you remove the trigger on a HP? It appears as if the trigger assembly is held in place by one pin, but that pin doesn't want to move. Do you push from the left side or the right side to remove it? Does something else need to be done to "free up" this pin? Help!
January 19, 2000, 04:20 PM
Unless Browning has changed something, the pin is simply a tight fit. On general principles, drive it out from the left, but I don't think it makes any difference.
Unless there is a good reason to remove the trigger, I don't recommend it. (I don't recommend removing the magazine safety either, which is the reason some people want to remove the trigger.)
The mag safety can be smoothed up by polishing the front of the magazine and then polishing the part that contacts the magazine. It is easy, and doesn't remove a safety.
January 20, 2000, 09:00 AM
Actually, the P-35 trigger pin has a "head" on it. Unless someone has installed it backwards previously, it should be driven out left to right (botton line; pound on the rounded end, not the flat end). They are often frightfully tight. A punch will tend to slide off and mar the frame. You might want to use a brass drift, that is much larger in diameter than the pin (1/2" or so) to drive the protruding rounded pin end down flush with the frame, before attacking it with a normal punch.
January 20, 2000, 10:23 AM
Hmmm. Just had mine out 1/19 & had to drift right to left (as holding to shoot - side opposite slide release) & the rounded end was on the right. Too, the groove in the pin matches with where the trigger spring goes.
January 20, 2000, 01:07 PM
Whoops. You're correct. It is right to left. Sorry.
January 20, 2000, 04:30 PM
Thanks, guys. Looks like I need a bigger hammer! :D
January 20, 2000, 06:11 PM
You should never need a bigger hammer to work on a firearm. If seemingly unnecessary force is called for, you "might" be doing something wrong.
I think it's pretty standard practice for pins to be driven in from the left (as you'd hold to shoot) & driven out from the right.
When replacing your hammer group, etc. do make absolutely certain that the trigger lever (that part that protrudes up into the slide assy when you pull back on the trigger) is sitting fully below the top of the frame. If the trigger binds (or spring tension isn't enough) - even slightly - it can cause the trigger lever to not properly engage slide assy (which levers & trips the sear) - makes gun go not-bang - intermittently.
Replaced the trigger spring 1/19 & had the above problem until replacing THAT trigger with an old factory. Too strange. But I got to do some pretty intense failure analysis. :(
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