View Full Version : Volquartsen parts on Ruger MKII
August 29, 1999, 09:31 PM
I have a Ruger MKII(6&7/8 bull) gov't target pistol. I am intrested in knowing if any of you folks have installed (yourself) volquarten "accurizing kit" on their own rugers...was it easy?, hard? and did you see a significant difference in trigger pull,accuracy,jamming and/or ammo difficulties? Thank you in advance...You may contact me at [email protected]
, or on the bulletin board...See ya...Fred.
August 30, 1999, 01:46 PM
I've installed many Volquartsen parts in several pistols and a 10/22. His products are first class.
His accurizing kit requires a detail disassembly of the pistol, so a manual showing the steps is invaluable.
Like most things, the 1st time you do it can be somewhat difficult. Once you have successfully proven to yourself that you can do it, you'll wonder why you were ever concerned.
Trigger pull is much lighter, crisper, and has less take up. Over travel can be adjusted down to almost nill.
The firearms are every bit as reliable as they were before installing the kit.
Durability seems to be high. I've had the kit in some pistols for over 10 years and have yet to wear out or break any parts.
August 30, 1999, 07:19 PM
I have had good luck with the Volquartsen sears and hammers but I do not like their triggers . I had 2 of them that the pivot holes were drilled crooked in and the triggers leaned to one side . I put Clark triggers in all of mine now and they give a better feel plus have a tighter trigger pin to pivot hole tolerance . Good luck , Mike...
August 31, 1999, 09:58 AM
I just installed the Volquartsen hammer and sear in my 6 7/8" slab side bull barrel competition model Mark II. I didn't think it was too hard. It reduced the trigger pull by around 20 ounces. I had also purchased the main and hammer bounce spring kit (I got everything in the "accurizing kit" but the trigger). I haven't yet installed the main spring. I'm not sure which pin you would have to remove to install it. Since you'ld have to drill out the pin, and you only get one replacement with the spring, I wasn't in a hurry to try it. It works fine with the original spring. I recommend the hammer and sear. Good luck.
August 31, 1999, 03:49 PM
Chuck , you do not have to drill out a pin to install the mainspring . You drive out [with a pin punch] the pin at the takedown lever end . CAUTION , the spring is under a LOT of pressure and there is a ball bearing on top [the lever cams on top of it], this is the hardest spring to replace I have ever ran into . I have installed them in 3 different guns and now I just leave in the stock one because of the hassle . There might be an assembly jig somewhere to aid you but I have yet to find it . If you attempt to replace it you had better have a vice and a few extra bearings laying around . Good luck , Mike...
September 1, 1999, 09:23 AM
Thank you for the info. I had pretty much decided that it wasn't worth the hassle, but I am curious yet. My pins are staked. When you drive them (it) out with a hammer and punch, this just forces the staked end of the pin through the hole?
After re-reading your post, I am definitely going to leave well enough alone. Thanks again.
September 1, 1999, 04:52 PM
Chuck , the pin I drive out is the pivot pin for the takedown lever , it goes through the lever and the mainspring housing . This pin should not be staked , but the other pins that hold the steel laminations together that make up the mainspring housing are . I only notice a small difference in trigger pull weight when using the replacement spring . The only modification I do to them now is to install a Clark trigger . One thing the replacement spring will help with is if you shoot subsonic ammo , the bolt will cycle easier with the new spring . If you try to replace it make sure you wear good safety glasses . Good luck , Mike...
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