folding knife advice

[boogeyman]

I've found myself with a renewed interest in folding knives. If you could clear up a couple of things since I'm still a newb. I'm looking for a folding knife that has around a 3" blade and no greater than a 4" handle (it should be able to dissapear in a relatively small pocket) so the handle must be thin. The knife is going to be both an EDC and a boat knife. With that being said, I think that the blade should be made of S30V. Would the spyderco native fit the bill? Also, should it be smooth or combo edged? I don't anticipate cutting rope or anything (but it does happen), truth be told I don't want to sharpen a serrated blade. If someone has better advice than S30V than by all means suggest it. Also, I'd like to keep the knife under $100 since it could be dropped into the deep blue.

[Bowtier]

I'm a big fan of Cold Steel knives. But I just bought 2 lockblades by Kershaw, designed by Ken Onion, they are really nice. One is kind of small, maybe 3" open with a smooth blade. I got it for my dad. The one I got is 6" open with about a 2 3/4" blade with a combo edge, sharp as a razor! Nice & thin too. The coolest part about them is the "assisted" open feature:eek: . There is some kind of cam or something inside, just push a little nub on the back of the blade and it flys open quick, a lot like a switchblade. Good for quick access.;)

[exoduster16]

....the Gerber Parafarame ll. It's what I use in a daily basis. I've owned it for about a year now and it has taking a beating and it still looks new. I have the one with the titanium nitrade coating.

[TheeBadOne]

M.O.D. Trident has been one of the best EDC knives I've ever owned.

[model 25]

I am a big fan of Spyderco, I like to be able to hold something in one hand and be able to open my Knife and cut something with the other. I only use a serrated edge and I sharpen it with ceramics. This is my work knife.

25

[Mikeyboy]

I usually wear a shirt and tie to work and the knife I like to carry is a Gerber LT (I think it is actually 3 letters LT something). 3 inch blade, no belt clip, about the same length and width of a bic lighter but real thin, less than a half an inch. It is real lightweight too, you can slip it into your pocket and forget about it, yet easy to pull and open with one hand. You can buy them for about $20.

[sendec]

If you like Spyderco, look no farther than the Delica, or if size allows, the Endura. The also have the extremely corrosion resistant "Salt" series, which are purpose built for the marine environment.

I prefer the combo edges, sharpening them on the Spyderco isnt difficult, and for lines and heavy material the serrations cannot be beat.

[JR47]

If you're going to be operating around rope in a marine envionment, look at the Spyderco Harpy. Do get the serrated edge, and ceramic sticks will work on the serrations.

I've carried Spyderco knives since they first appeared. At that time, the pocket clip was formed from the scale of the knife, as an integral piece. I carried a Standard until it was lost in a blizzard while operating at a building collapse in 1993-94. I bought another Standard, and it's sitting on my hip as I write this. The closest thing to the Standard today is the Delica II. At a 2 5/8" blade, and all stainless construction, it's as close to indestructible as you'll get for under $50.00:)

[svtruth]

I sail a lot. I have a Buck cross lock that can be opened one handed, has a liner lock and has two blades, a blade and a tool. Each blade has a different serration on the back so you can tell which you are opening without looking. Only works for righties though. Also have a David Boye dendritic, cobalt carbide knife which has the sharpest durable edge I have ever used.
Good luck.

[Ala Dan]

I too am a big fan of the Kershaw leek knives from Ken Onion, and also
the Voyager from Cold Steel. I use one or the other on a daily
basis, and I have NO complaints. Both, are razor sharp~!:D

[Capt Charlie]

Ya know fellers (as he prepares to be laughed off the planet), I must be an older, set-in-my-ways fart than I thought, because after all these years, I still prefer and carry my trusty old Buck folding hunter in a belt holster. It's never failed me, and the folks at Buck are the greatest to deal with (at least they were and I hope they still are; been awhile). Bench Made, Cold Steel, all great knives, but a little too pricey for my taste. I don't want a knife that I'm afraid to use in rough conditions for fear of a second mortgage to replace it. And while I can't really explain it, those that have SWAT, or Special Forces, or Black Ops, etc. on the blade absolutely drive me nuts! Yep, give me a plain Jane, un-tacticool Buck every time.

[Musketeer]

I carry a Kershaw every day. I find it to be a slim and durable knife and is FAST on the openning thanks to the SpeedSafe feature. Note, it is NOT a switchblade as the blade is openned by pressing directly on the blade, not on a button or actuating device.

[springmom]

:D Buck knives are inexpensive, relative to some of the stuff out there, but they'll last forever. I'll join you as we get laughed off the planet because *I* don't know the acronym EDC.

Springmom the old fart #2

[Pilot]

Benchmade 710. If you're cutting rope, get the combo plane (half plane, half serrated). Its one of my EDC's along with the shorter, less expensive BM 551S and CRKT M16-13.

['75Scout]

Spyderco Salt. Will not rust is marine environments. Spyderco is a great brand.

[Dragun]

one word: SWAT. sorry charlie, had to to it. my smith-wesson swat is the shiznit. its just a name for this model, like BM 551S or M16-13 or any other name they give a knife. it's just easier to say. that said, my swat is 440 surgical stainless blade and handle. no liner as the handle is the liner and the lock is a frame lock as opposed to a liner lock. 1/4 inch thick excluding the pocket clip. paid $35 bucks for the midsize swat with a 3+ inch blade, then found his big brother with a 4+ inch blade at a gunshow for $30 bucks. doesn't break the bank so go ahead and drop them into the deep blue.

crappy camera/phone pic so please forgive the low res.
http://img185.imageshack.us/my.php?image=swswat15kg.jpg

i never liked serrated blades and tend to feel they are for only good if you don't know how to sharpen a blade. i don't have time to sharpen all those little cresents so after sharpening a serrated blade everyday for a couple months, a serrated blade becomes a smooth blade anyways.

[the possum]

If you plan to cut a lot of really big synthetic rope, (like, over 2" diamter) then I agree the serrated edge will be better. But if this is more of a "general purpose" folder and the rope is only occasionally, then I'd say go with the straight edge. It will work better for darn near everything else provided you keep it sharp, and that is much easier to do with a straight edge.

[losangeles]

Kershaw Onion Leek model might work for you. I would have suggested others but you have a blade length restriction.

[blackmind]

You will not go wrong with anything by Spyderco or Benchmade. I cannot decide which I like more.

I am partial to the Benchmade Mini Griptilian, but it does not have a slim handle -- more of a hand-filling one.

The Spyderco Para Military may be of the dimensions you are looking for. I have one and really like it, but I don't carry it. (It's tucked away as a treasure. And it's about $100 or so and I don't like using knives that cost that much.) I can't remember the dimensions.

Check out websites like KnifeCenter.com (http://www.knifecenter.com) for good deals and quality merchandise. (That's a very searchable site, too. That's part of why I like it. Prices there are okay.)

The Benchmade Ascent series might do you. I think they make them in Taiwan but still of very good quality. (They are mostly American-made, but now Benchmade has a line of foreign-made econo-knives.)

Don't bother with serrations. I hate them. I liked combo-edged knives for a while, and now I go for straight. Like you, I hate sharpening serrations. HATE it. And you get such better, cleaner cuts with straight plain edges.

If this will be a boat knife, near water (particularly salt water), consider the Benchmade SALT. They now have a couple of different ones, I think.


-blackmind

[Blackwater OPS]

The colombia river knife[edit] and tool company makes some great knives, I started carring one when my kershaw wore out.

Currently I carry the M16-14LE, quick to open, nice looks and tough sharp blade. Its pretty big but thay have smaller sizes.

[blackmind]

Yeah, well, you won't wear out a Benchmade! :p ;)



-blackmind

[Dragun]

as with most (expensive) good knife makers, you wont wear it out but i bet i could snap the tip off of one. seems to be a lot of thin blades to me. i stab my knife into a soft 2x4 and then bend it sideways. if the tip breaks off i put another tip on it. my gerbers and my swats just rip out a hunk of wood with the tip intact. i refuse to pay more than 50 bucks for a knife. usually less. if you payed say $100 bucks or more would you even try this test?

[Gravitas1]

I carry a Gerber FAST somethin' er other knife. Pocket clip, assisted opening (automatic basically), sharp edge, sturdy, THIN, about 50 bucks, you could attach a lanyard, about a 3 or 3 and a half inch blade. Good simple utilitarian knife. A lot of the "bells and wistles" of the other knives at a much lower price. I own several hundred knives and I'm very happy with this Gerber.

[blackmind]

I have nothing against a good Gerber knife. I think that for way-mass-produced Taiwanese stuff, they are functional and durable and reliable. Some of them even look cool. But I bought the Frame Lock something or other and it, as a folder with one-hand-opening thumbstud, was a total P.O.S.!

I like those Gator-grip ones, and some of their fixed-blade knives as well, but then the Gator-grip folders are not one-hand-openers as I prefer.


No, I do not subject my knives to crazy metal-bending stress tests. I think that if my knife blade is reasonably thick, and of a quality steel, it'll do just fine; perhaps it would pass such a test swimmingly. But since I'll be slicing or stabbing with it, not opening paint cans ("the right tool for the right job"), why would I care how much lateral pressure I can put on the tip before it snaps??


-blackmind

[Gravitas1]

yeah I must admit I've seen some pretty Sh*tty Gerber knives, but my FAST knife is pretty good. I also have an older one, prolly somethin' like 40 years old and it too is a good one, back when they were actually made in America. Made in Taiwan??? Really? Better than China I guess.

[Dragun]

good on ya, Grav. gerber is a good working knife. i have been using knives on a daily basis for around 40 years. i beat the crap out of em every day. we're not talking uber tactical here. most tactical (super expensive) knives say do not pry, use as a screwdriver, etc. etc... why? they don't want you to break them. i use mine to pry, turn screws, etc. etc. everyday. a man without a pocketknife is like... well, you get my drift. i'm not payin' hundreds of dollars just so i can look at it. incidently, i do like benchmade for tactical. my buddy is a dealer, so i get good deals on them. if there is a chance it could get wasted or lost (in the deep blue), why pay big bucks.

what makes one knife 5 times more expensive than another. stainless is stainless. sure there is 360 stainless, 410 stainless, 440 stainless, bla bla bla. i beleive the 300 series is non magnetic, whatever. they can only get so hard. 62 or 63 hardness on the rockwell C scale. any harder and they will crack if they are not drawn down in a draw funace. i used to heat treat steel for a living many years ago. filet knives are usually 45 to 50 hardness (spring steel). too hard and they will be brittle and snap with much flex.

of course, i wear a timex, and that is another debate. i have money but i'm not going to throw it away for bragging rights on a name. i use what works from experience.

[blackmind]

There is, as I understand it, more to steel than hardness. There is toughness, too. I guess that edge-holding ability is related mostly to hardness. But there are also handle materials to think about; construction; fit and finish; design and utility; construction strength...

I'm not saying that your knife must cost $350 like a Chris Reeve Sebenza (though people who own them rave about them)... and I admit that some $25 knives do great, but if you bump up to spending maybe $60-80 on a Benchmade, you'll not only have a great user knife, you can also stare at it and handle it and enjoy how very cool it also is... :D

Oh, and same with Spyderco.


If you need a good knife for a boat, one that will resist rusting, get a Benchmade 100SH2O. It's a combo edge, yeah, but really sharp, good in the hand, can be mounted on a PFD, has the option for a high-vis yellow grip, and is made of H1 steel, which is very rust-resistant.

of course, i wear a timex, and that is another debate. i have money but i'm not going to throw it away for bragging rights on a name. i use what works from experience.

+1 I'm a Casio man, myself, but I'm with you on this philosophy.
I'm not into it for the name brands; it's just that many times, the name brands are well known because they are superior products.


-blackmind

[Blackwater OPS]

FYI hardness is just a measure of a material's resistance to scratching, IE glass is pretty hard, I would not really want a knife made out of it though. Also, when I say I wore out my kershaw, I meant it fell apart. I probably could replace the screws and whatnot and it would be fine, but it had seen a lot of abuse I really fell in love with the CRKT. The main thing I look for in a folding knife now, aside from basic quality and the ability to retain a locked position even if struck with a hard/heavy object on the back of the blade(very important), is index finger opening stud of some kind. I have found this makes a knife much faster and easier to open and draw.

[Dragun]

Benchmade 100SH2O, very nice knife, made for being around water if i remember right. thinking they're around $80-$100 bucks?

as far as being really sharp, most knives are nowdays. i remember buying my first knife that had a real edge. a Case knife that was so razor sharp i couldn't believe it. one of my friends (not the brightest bulb) sliced his thumb to the bone just checking it out, and threw it across a parking lot. although, when i was young, all knives were almost dull out of the box and we sharpened em ourselves. if you use it at all, even cardboard will dull em in one day. if you use it daily, i would suggest being able to sharpen it as well.

[Dragun]

blackwater, the rockwell hardness test is done with a press type of device that puts weight on a pointed tip and makes it sink into the metal being tested. how far in it goes is measured to get results as to how hard the metal is. glass or other non metalic materials will not get too far.

[Blackwater OPS]

I stand corrected, I was thinking of mineral hardness which is was the limit of my education on hardness. It seems hardness in reference to metals has an entirely different definition.

Tests to find strength of metal-http://www.standardservice.ro/index_files/Glosar.htm Whew, maybe the 2x4 test is not such a bad idea after all, at least its quick!

[Dragun]

"other non metalic materials will not get too far."

doh! now i stand corrected. i had no idea plastic and rubber were tested with a rockwell tester. only have experience with metals. nice link BW OPS.

[blackmind]

Benchmade 100SH2O, very nice knife, made for being around water if i remember right. thinking they're around $80-$100 bucks?


I don't remember what I spent on it. It was probably around $80, I think. Not sure now.


although, when i was young, all knives were almost dull out of the box and we sharpened em ourselves. if you use it at all, even cardboard will dull em in one day. if you use it daily, i would suggest being able to sharpen it as well.

Absolutely! Being able to sharpen is worth very much!

I have noticed that in the last three or so years, knives I get are sharper when new than they were before that. I used to buy Spydercos that needed work before they were users. Now they do a great job of making them sharp right off.

I have a Spyderco Bill Moran Featherweight that is really pretty amazingly sharp -- I'm afraid to try to sharpen it. It will be a stretch to put an edge back on it that's as good as the factory edge it had. (That's why I haven't really even used the knife yet! Don't wanna necessitate sharpening it!)

-blackmind

[stephen426]

I have at least 10 different folders (I'm addicted). 6 of those are Benchmades although some of those are more for collection than use. I have to agree with Pilot on the 710 McHenry Williams. I have gotten a few other knives afterwards but that 710 never seems to give up its place on my waistband. The ergonomics are absolutely fantastic! The Axis lock is awesome (super smooth and easy to open AND close with one hand). I love the combo edge as I get the best of both worlds. Benchmade has their Lifesharp guarantee (http://www.benchmade.com/about_knives/lifesharp_service.asp)where they will sharpen your knife for around $5 for the S&H.

The Axis lock (http://www.benchmade.com/about_knives/locking_mechanisms.asp)keeps the blade close under tension but it opens up easily.

Uh oh... I shouldn't have gone on the Benchmade site... Now I think I have found my next knife. It is the 10200 Ambush (http://www.benchmade.com/products/product_detail.aspx?model=10200) The handle is made of aluminum and the Blade is AUS 8. The SB model is black coated to prevent corrosion. This knife only costs less than $100!

One other thing I wanted to share was one of the best damn knife dealers I have dealt with. I have bought quite a few things from Bayou Lafouche Knifeworks (http://www.knifeworks.com) and have always been very happy with the service and my purchase. They have great pricing and I don't have to worry about whether the guy on Ebay is legit or not!

[StormTrooper]

I too keep a Gerber at the ready. The model I am carrying now is the Hersey Air Ranger. Nice everyday all around blade. The blade is like 3-1/8", Textured aluminum handle and is ambidextrious as you can open it easily with the left or right hand thumb. Its a drop point blade with knife edge the first 1/2 to 3/4 of the blade and serated at the portion to the rear of the blade. All in all very handy, lighting fast to access and they do take a beating. I use a sparing drop of gun oil once every 3-6 months to keep the action smooth. You got a lot of choices to sift through, good luck.

[USP45usp]

If you live in a state that allows auto-knives, and they have a factory in that state (can't cross state lines, federal law) then I would suggest an auto.

I have and carry the Mini-Reflex by Benchmade. I am currently trying to buy another (thank goodness my gunshop that I go to has a lifetime (if that what it takes) lay-a-way program for regulars) Benchmade that is larger than the mini and also an auto.

If you have to go with a normal folder, again Benchmade but if you wish lower price, the Buck Knives have always been good (and they have a heck of a history behind them).

I don't know if Uncle Henry and Old Timer is still around but I still have my Uncle Henry that I got for my 10th birthday but it isn't easy open and the Old Timer truly is, it belonged to my great grandfather, again not an easy open type. They have held up remarkably well, especially the Uncle Henry (in 27 years, you know what that thing has been used for :eek: ).

Wayne

[Ichiro]

I once had a Cold Steel medium Voyager, with a tanto-point, 3", fully serrated blade. It came scary sharp from the factory and cut through anything I wanted it to with ease. Serrations are not just for rope, although I'm sure rope-cutting could come in handy on a boat. This knife ripped through cardboard, plastic packages and plant stems like nobody's business. The stabbing point of the tanto is also useful. With one of the aforementioned hard plastic packages, you can insert the knife wherever you want and just rip it out to the side.

I never considered sharpening it in the three years I had it, because it just looked too difficult. On the other hand, I never needed to sharpen it. It always cut what I needed it to. I consider this a disposable knife, but one that should last for years. And, you could buy three of them and still not exceed $100 if you shop around.

After I lost that knife, I bought a Spyderco Calypso Jr. on closeout. This is a very NICE knife. I wouldn't consider abusing it like I did the Cold Steel, though, because it's more delicate.

I also have a CRKT M-16 with the Carson flipper. The flipper is great, but the blade is not. It doesn't slice nearly as well as the Calypso Jr., and it's nowhere near as rugged as the Cold Steel. It's also the only folder I have that has a rust problem. And the handle gets filled with dirt and lint because it's full of holes.

I think you should find a good $30-35 knife, and then buy three of them.

~Ichiro

[blackmind]

One more thing:

If you're considering a folder that you plan to use near the water (or, heaven forbid, in water), if it's not titanium or H1 steel, make sure you get one that can be user-disassembled/reassembled, so that you can maintain it, clean it, lubricate it...

Many many models can't be taken apart, but many can. Choose carefully.

As I understand it, in 2006, Spyderco will be releasing (FINALLY!) a Delica that is screwed together instead of riveted. I can't wait! :)


-blackmind

[stephen426]

I just went to check out the Spyderco Web Site (http://spyderco.com/) and came across this (http://spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=11) in the Specials section. This knife looks pretty good for your purposes and is pretty inexpensive. Hell, I might even get one!:eek:

[riverkeeper]

Another Kershaw Leek fan.

[blackmind]

The Kershaws often have recurved blades (an S shape), and as such cannot really be sharpened adequately on a flat bench stone (like my ceramic Spyderco stone). I won't buy recurved blades; I simply don't like them, specifically because of the sharpening issue. Also, some Kershaws have these weird serrations that are IMPOSSIBLE to sharpen. They look like rounded teeth, and have a very fine angle between each of them. No stone I know of can get in there. I have no idea why they designed the serrations that way. "Disposable knife"? Once it's dull, you throw it away and get a new one? Same thing with the really tiny serrations on some Cold Steel knives. Forget about it.


Spyderco's serrations CAN be sharpened, but it's a bitch.

I am opting more and more for what is long tried and true: PLAIN blades.
The newfangled $#!t is not worth it -- all fluff and no real reason for it except to 'keep it fresh" with new ideas. The best new ideas in the last few decades regarding knives have been the Spyderhole (and other one-hand-opening innovations), neck knives, the liner lock, the frame lock, the Ball-Bearing Lock, the compression lock, and maybe the Spyderedge serrations.

All these fancy Gil-Hibbenesque recurves on blades, I can do without. All they boil down to is needless complication of a very very simple tool. They're nothing but marketing.


-blackmind

[riverkeeper]

Agree with previous guy who obviously knows more than me BUT there are simple and modest priced kershaw almost strait plain OR serrated blades. the leek is one. 4"closed with 3" blade. Slender and simple. There are other manufacturers of course.

http://www.knivesplus.com/kershaw-leek-knife-ke-1660bb.html

[blackmind]

Thanks for posting the link to that Kershaw -- it is indeed a good-looking knife. I'd even buy one, seeing it now. (But I'm saving up for the new disassemblable Delica...)

So I agree, not all Kershaws would necessarily fail to fit my tastes. :)


-blackmind

[losangeles]

Agree with previous guy who obviously knows more than me BUT there are simple and modest priced kershaw almost strait plain OR serrated blades. the leek is one. 4"closed with 3" blade. Slender and simple. There are other manufacturers of course.


I first bought a regular Leek. I liked it so much, I bought a designer-looking Rainbow Leek. It's got a nice cool effect. And you can wear it with your business suit as it's less intimidating for sheeple. :cool:

[AJ Peacock]

I have ColdSteel, Gerber and CRKT. I've become very fond of my CRKT knives. They are dis-assembl-able (is that a word), very rugged and fit my hand well. Their locking mechanisms are second to none. I also like them because they don't look like a cheap knockoff. Many of their models are made in the USA. I just bought the small 14k model for my son and gave it to him at deer camp. http://www.crkt.com/14ksummt.html

My ColdSteel and Gerber knives get used and are excellent knives. But one of my CRKT's is always with me.

Good Luck,
AJ

[DimitriS]

Humm I dont see why some of your dont seem to like Buck knifes, I once bought a 200$ knife at a gunshow because the guy was offering them cheap on special (it was some new model forget the make) he gave it to us for 100$ I saw it a few weeks later at a few stores for up to 250$ so I decided I got a good deal and used it for a while. It broke down faster then my cheap Buck knifes doing pretty much the same stuff. Using it to cut wood, gut salmon, and do anything else you can think of with a knife.

That was 100$ to waste :( But hey my 40$ Buck knife I bought right after it broke on me has and keeps lasting on me and I have owned it now for 3 years :p

Best knife I ever got was a East German Bayonet you can find them around the net for lik 20$ US. It has yet to even need a good sharpening and I have had it for about 2 years. :D

Dimitri

[AJ Peacock]

Buck is a nice cheap knife. I even have a couple. I'd rather have one that:
1) has serrations to keep your hand from sliding up
2) will dis-assemble for cleaning
3) will stay locked, even while being used 'harshly'

My CRKT's have all been less than $50 and they all have the above.

AJ

[3o3brit]

If you have a Big 5 sporting goods in your area, check out their sales.
I picked up a Smith & Wesson folder with a 3.38 blade for $12
a month or so ago and it has held up great for such a cheap knife.
Easy one hand opening, liner lock, titanium coated blade.
Holds a nice edge and I have used it a lot cutting thick cable ties.

[firefighterjim]

I carry the M16-13Z daily and on duty. Holds an edge well, has the serrations, not too big. Heavy clip that doesn't slip, opens easily with one hand....everything I need!

[Recon7]

+1 on the columbia river m16-14le thats what I carry. the "carson flipper" is good for a quick open. I don't like switchblade or spring assist because you gotta rely on a spring and may run into probs with the law. You also want to check on the legality of a 4" knife completly concealed in your pocket. I wear mine clipped onto my pocket leaving 1" exposed, but it is navy in color and blends in well with some pants. come to think of it I could m-nu the clip to re blacken the worn parts.....

['75Scout]

I have bought Gerber, Kershaw, CRKT, Cold Steel, Benchmade, and Spyderco. The only brand of folding knife I still own is Spyderco, except for 1 Benchmade Mini Stryker that is unused in box and I will sell for $50. I have 1 Serrated Delicia that is my work knife and is abused on a daily basis. I have been using it for 5 or 6 years in my mowing company and it's never been sharpened, but still is quite sharp. 1 more Delicia thats green with black coated blade. 1 Kiwi with Jig bone handle, 1 Mini Dyad (my favorite), 1 Jester and a Copilot (that I also wouldn't mind selling, still in box).

Although there are many quality folding knive makers out there, Spyderco has proven their products superior time and time again. They are light, easily opened with one hand, relatively inexpensive, and virtually indestructable. I will carry some model of Spyderco for the rest of my life, along with Surefire flashlights.

If anyone is interested in the two knives I want to sell just shoot me a pm.

[22-rimfire]

I own many knives. I currently carry a cheap little plastic handled Gerber knife that I bought for under $20 as my everyday knife. It literally gets used in some fashion every single day.

I have looked at the Spyderco knives and find them well made but a little too trendy for me. Can't see myself using one of them for hunting or as a skinning knife.

During deer hunts these days, I carry a Remington bullet knife, the little Gerber (because it is always in my pocket), and a fixed blade sheath knife that seems to change from year to year. This year it was a Kershaw, but have since bought another Gerber for that purpose. I own many expensive knives, but I still find myself going back to basic knives such as Case, Remington, Boker, Schrade, and Gerber. Knives are tools and although I love custom knives, I can't bring myself to actually using one to cut something.

[Eghad]

I just purchased a Cold Steel TI -Lite. can be operated one handed and comes sharp as a pimp on payday night. I alo like it because it has the guard lie a stilleto does, in fact this knife is a stilleto type knife. The guard is serrated and could rip quite a bit of skin of if used on the face or the arm with some pressure without even opening it.

[EdMan]

Ever since the 1980s when I was in Golden Colorado for for some AT&T systems training, and I stopped in a new little factory outlet knife store –- that I had never heard of -- called “Spyderco,” I have been carrying a Spyderco knife. My first Spyderco was called the WORKER and I still have it. Since then I have bought about 40 Spyderco knives for myself and for others. I like the Spyderco’s clip and its ability to be opened very quickly with one hand. They also have good steel that holds an edge and is not too difficult to sharpen. In the last 20+ years I‘ve become very proficient at quickly “deploying” my Spyderco knife with one hand. The Spyderco I now carry the most is a DELICA with a straight edge, or if I need a longer blade I carry my ENDURA.

Ed

[BigV]

Spyderco is a great knife and they stand behind them. I once gave my Spyderco to a knife sharpener at a gun show. I asked if he knew how to sharpen a serrated blade. “Of course!” he said laughing. He then proceeded to grind a 45-degree angle on both sides of the blade and ruined the knife! I sent it back to Spyderco with a letter explaining what had happened. They sent me a brand new knife with no questions asked. They also offer free knife sharpening for life as well.

[Mannlicher]

If no one has mentioned it, try looking at AG Russell's website

www.agrussell.com

Lots of candy, but some can be pricy

[kutter_1313]

Gotta agree with Dragun on this, my S&W SWAT Special Tactical is my everyday workhorse pocketknife. Mine varies in the tanto blade, half serration, and has a belt clip. It's available through MSC, so I got work to pay for 25% and it was under $50 to start with. I carried a similar S&W while in the grunts, same blade style, but all black, with thicker scales. I think it was the 'Spec Ops' or somethin. Gave it to my buddy when I left, as he was off to The 'Stan and I was off to WI. He said he still has it because it works great. Those were available at the Army PX for $36, dunno why the MC PX never carried them. Neither ever showwed any rust, despite the saltiness of Hawaii. I remember having the Spec Ops taken away in training "because a tanto blade will go through soft body armor" and some kids flip in grunt school, I guess. Come to think of it, the guy I gave it to tried to bayonet some ****bird in SOI... Issue bayonets are hard to get through a flak, but they won't let us sharpen them. Maybe 'cause we can't stop fighting amongst ourselves...

[guntotin_fool]

Smith and Wesson and Cold Steel and CRKT are not knife manufacturers, they are sellers. They buy and resell knives that they have had private labeled for themselves.

That said, Benchmade has different levels of knives, unless you buy the more expensive lines, they too are outsourced. Buckknives labeled Made in USA as well as Gerber knives similarly labeled are made by the company, but those labeled as made in china or taiwan are outsourced too. Hard to believe but true.

As far as i have been able to discover all spyderco knives labeled made in japan are in fact made by them, the less expensive knives labeled on the blade as taiwan are not.

Al Mar and SOG have a lot of trouble with counterfits. look carefully at the knife before buying, I found a counterfit Al Mar at a national store just the other day.

The key to a good blade has for more to do with temper and heat treat than with blade steel. A great piece of steel with a crappy heat treat will be a crappy blade, a decent servicable steel with a excellent appropriate heat treat will be a good blade. What made Bucks so good for years was the quality of the heat treat. It was done by eye and it was done right. Now the company has relocated and I do not know howmany of the artisans that did that heat treat moved with the company. Same with the old "Portland, USA" stamped Gerbers, those were truely great knives. But big box retailers have killed the american knife business by insisting on namebrand knives for $16 on sale. A really good knife steel is ATS 34, tough hard and long wearing, it takes and edge that will last for a long time. Buck made some that were stamped made in USA and those are to be treasured, I found a couple at Gander for $23.00 each and bought them. Buying a knife that does not come apart is not that big a deal, just drop it in boiling water and then blow dry with an air hose and then drop into a can with a little solvent and work the knife wet with solvent wrap in a paper towel adn let it sit for a hour then oil lightly. works everytime. I really like the old buck odyssey pattern and wish it was still available, I keep on the look out for the ATS 34 ones, even have bought a serrated blade model and sanded off the serrations. serrations have no purpose on a EDC knife unless you are a EMT or likely to face a lot of spectre or kevlar, otherwise, plain edge is far superior.

A good blade for trial is the ATS 34 ez out from gerber, often found for about 25 bucks. good blade, thin grips, usable clip.

[Ftom14cat]

another vote for crkt

[WhiskeyMike]

This one looks promising: American Brand, Unbeatable warranty, looks functionial, and tactiblack:

http://www.tadgear.com/edged%20tools/buck-strider_889.htm

[oystermick]

I must be out of the loop. What the hell is "EDC"?

[The British Soldier]

Has anyone else tried the Colombia River Sampson KISS? They are compact and easily carried, but the blade has an annoying habit of collapsing because the locking system is not positive and mechanical - rather a sprung bar.

Not a bad knife for light duty applications.

[Pilot]

What the hell is "EDC"?

Every Day Carry.

[hso]

The only production folding knives in your price range that won't rust in a marine environment are the Spyderco Salt series, the Camillus Talonites http://camillusknives.com/1mainframe.htm and the David Boye Cobalt series http://www.boyeknives.com/

I'm not aware of any other production folders for marine use that won't rust up on you.

[P99fan]

I have carried the Mini-Grip for a couple of years. It's tough and comfortable in my hand. I like the plain stainless drop-point. It's not the most expensive knife out there, but it does offer value for the $.