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View Full Version : Model 10 barrel switch


Rodger Parrish
October 13, 2005, 09:25 AM
I would like to put a 2 in. tube on my 4 in. model 10 RHKP revolver.
S&W wants $174.00 Parts labor and shipping.

If I get the parts needed is it feasable to try and get it done locally?

I live in SE Ohio

Thanks,
Rodger

Dfariswheel
October 13, 2005, 01:31 PM
Getting revolver barrel work done locally is a crap shoot.

MOST local gunsmiths don't have the correct tooling to do the job right, and without possibly damaging the gun.

Many local gunsmiths have no idea of what the actual proper procedure is, and don't do critical items like re-cutting the forcing cone to the right spec.

While there are local people who are very good, you really have no way of telling if they are or aren't.

I recently heard from an ex-customer who took a Ruger in for a longer barrel.

He had heard rave reviews from local customers of this 'smith, and the 'smith assured him that he was "factory trained" and "had all the right tools".

The 'smith offered to do the job that day, since this man was from out of town, so the customer decided to wait.

He needed to use the rest room, and on the way back saw that the "gunsmith" had his Ruger locked up in a ordinary shop vice with some wooden blocks, and was just about to start twisting the frame off with a hammer handle.

Needless to say, THAT ain't "factory training" and the man took his Ruger and left.


There are some nationally known pistolsmith's in Ohio, but they specialize in custom work, and are month or years behind.

My advice, unless you can find a VERIFIED expert, sent it to S&W.
They'll do it FAST, RIGHT, and the price will be very competitive.

jimmy
October 13, 2005, 08:49 PM
Agreed. Any time I need work done on an S&W revolver, I ship it to the factory. The quality of S&W's work and the resulting confidence in the job are worth the money. Local gunsmiths are too big a risk. As an instance, I have a Model 10 that had a timing problem, requiring a new hand. I took it to a reputable local gunsmith, who said he'd take care of it. Well, he fixed the timing, but somehow caused the cylinder to bind. I can't believe he didn't notice it. I took the gun back to him. He sorta fixed the cylinder, but in doing so bent the extractor rod. In the end, I wound up shipping the gun to S&W anyway, to undo the damage the gunsmith had caused! :(

cntryboy1289
October 13, 2005, 09:13 PM
Please don't sell us all short when it comes to a S&W, Colt, Dan Wesson, or Ruger or whathave you when it comes to pistols or revolvers. Learn to ask a few simple questions and ask if he has any credentials when it comes to revolvers or pistols. If he has them, he will most likely have them posted somewhere in his shop, I know I do. I am proud of the work that went into me learning all I could on them and proudly display them for anyone to see.

As to the questions I would ask myself, one would be exactly what kind of training does the guy have with working with revolovers or pistols, this goes toward any gun actually.

I would also ask him for some personal references as well. If he has experience and has done any kind of work, this shouldn't be a problem. If he hems and haws and says "Oh I have worked on hundreds of them trust me", I would walk away and follow the previous advise on sending it to the factory. If he actually goes to his cards and offers several names for you to contact, do just that and ask about the workmanship and quality of the repair. If you get good responses, I then would let him work on it if you trust him.

There is nothing wrong with sending it to the factory just like there is nothing wrong with letting a smith that knows what he is doing take care of it as well.

Sir William
October 14, 2005, 05:34 PM
Three concerns pop up in my mind. Is the 2" barrel new? Can the gunsmith retime the revolver as the ejector rod must be replaced with a 2" ejector rod. The barrel might require cutting of extra threads to secure it and align the front sight. The rear of the barrel may need trimming, cylinder gap reset and also have the forcing cone recut. I suggest 11 degrees. That is a bit complicated for most so-called gunsmiths. I suggest patience and shipping your revolver to www.cylinder-slide.com or S&W.

cntryboy1289
October 14, 2005, 05:46 PM
If a smith is trained and set up to do the work, then it is a job he can do and do well. If he doesn't have the training and isn't set up to do the work, then you of course are completely right. I just don't like it when a guy tells someone that is asking about having work done that most smith's aren't capable of handling the job. Let it be a decision based on each smith and his capabilities and skill before you condemn them. Not all of us are hack job specialist and some of us were trained to do the work as well as the guy at the factory that will be doing the job. A lot of the folks that work for S&W are simply part changers that will assemble the revolver with the correct parts, that doesn't make them a revolver smith or pistol smith nor does it make them better qualified to do the work.

Please, if you don't mind me saying so, give a guy the oppurtunity to find a smith if he can that can do a good job or if he cannot then send it to the factory

10-96
October 20, 2005, 08:54 AM
My advice, unless you can find a VERIFIED expert, sent it to S&W.
They'll do it FAST, RIGHT, and the price will be very competitive.

Why does S&W not work on anything older than 1954? That's what the majority of my collection is.

mtnbkr
October 20, 2005, 11:10 AM
Why not put that $174 into buying a 2" model 10? I imagine you could find a 2" M10 for $250 or less.

Chris