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Cowled_Wolfe
October 6, 2005, 12:54 AM
Howdy. I semi-recently purchased a bolt buffer and auto-bolt-release from WeaponKraft, and when I got a chance to test, my 10/22 was less reliable than in the past. Previously, I had about 1 in 50 rounds jam, now it's down to 1 in 10...

Most jams are caused by a single fired casing ejecting wrong and sitting on top of the magazine, facing forward, sitting on the side opposite of the ejection port.

Anyone experience this before? What's the problem? Is it cuz of the new parts?

Thanks,
Wolfe.

cntryboy1289
October 6, 2005, 02:48 AM
When you put the trigger group back in the action, could it possibly be that you put the ejector in wrong or left it out? Other than that, it might be that the bolt isn't moving back all the way like it should be. Take the trigger group back out and then go to www.ruger22.com. he has a schematic on how to break the gun down and use it to make sure you have it back together correctly. You might end up with a bad magazine as well,some of them have a lip on them that help with ejection as well. If none of these help clear it up, come back and tell me what it's doing again.

mtnbkr
October 6, 2005, 06:58 AM
I know from experience that the bolt buffer will not harm reliability by itself, so check your assembly wrt the ejector.

BTW, with the buffer, Volquartsen extractor, and a headspaced bolt, my 10/22 is 100% reliable (with factory mags, mine seems to hate my hotlips mag).

Chris

XavierBreath
October 6, 2005, 08:09 AM
The ejection of the 10/22 is dependent on the magazine itself. If the magazine is misaligned, the ejection will be affected. Often on restocking a 10/22, the magazine will touch the side of the stock in some area, and this can cause misalignment. Check to make sure a business card can be inserted all the way up between the magazine and stock, on both sides. If it cannot, adjust your clearance until it can be.

Russ5924
October 6, 2005, 08:26 AM
I had the same thing happen to me.Gun would stove pipe now and then after putting the Buffer in had all kinds jams.Took the Buffer out and went back to being OK.I don't understand the part where XavierBreath says the ejector is on the clip,what is the one on the bolt?????????????

cntryboy1289
October 6, 2005, 12:58 PM
Why do you bed the trigger group? I read your page about modified 10/22's and that was one of the upgrades you do to your rifles.

Personally, I bed the back of the receiver when it needs it, but allow the rest of the action to free float except for the action screw bedding area which I pillar bed and then skim coat the top of that, and then I bed the first few inches to the balance point of the rifle since I have a bull barrel on mine. What purpose does it serve to tighten up the trigger group by bedding it? Were you trying to take up slop in it or what? Just curious about your thought process on it.

BTW, I like your page, you have a pretty extensive collection there.

XavierBreath
October 6, 2005, 01:48 PM
I think we are basically talking about the same thing. I pay a lot of attention to the rear portion where the stock fits between the trigger group and reciever. I don't try to bed the sides.

cntryboy1289
October 6, 2005, 02:34 PM
Thanks, I appreciate you getting back to me on that.

Ledbetter
October 6, 2005, 03:46 PM
You should spend another $11 and put in a Volquartsen or Power Custom extractor.

cntryboy1289
October 6, 2005, 05:33 PM
I wish I had a dime for every time I have heard that one. Why is it that everyone wants to be a parts changer when it comes to their guns. The Ruger extractor is just fine if it is tuned just like every other extractor in a gun. The hook egagement angle needs to be positive and the bottom needs to be chamfered. Make sure of of these two things and you have the VQ extractor. I think the Power custom is of a different metal, but the one ruger sent you with the gun does very nice as long as it follows what an extractor does which is hold the round up to the bolt face, has a positive engagement angle, and the bottom leading edge is chamfered to allow the round to slide up like it is spposed to. If yours doesn't follow these principles, a small diamond or needle file and a vise is all that is necessary to fix it.

I am not one that gets into changing out all the parts just because someone makes the "in crowd" part. Ruger parts do quite well and will do much better with a little tweak now and then and then you have the knowledge of how to fix the gun and a better acting part plus you can save the money spent on aftermarket parts and put them into optics or ammo. Of course to each his own and you can do whatever it is you wish to do.

Cowled_Wolfe
October 6, 2005, 05:55 PM
Thanks for the advice, I'll try it out next chance I get. How much sharper does the extractor need to be? Just a tad, or like a big mean claw?

Btw, I'm not out to make the ultimo-modded dream 10/22 (not yet anyways). I just saw a cheap way to make it a tad quieter, and a bit more reliable.

Wolfe.

Ledbetter
October 6, 2005, 06:25 PM
You can work on your Ruger extractor, and maybe get lucky if this is the first one you've ever done. Take a file to the inside of the hook and make it sharper, as stated. Try to get a look at a custom extractor first.

The installation of a Vq or Power Custom extractor has done away with FTF problems in the three 10/22's I have rebuilt.

cntryboy1289
October 6, 2005, 06:29 PM
Don't worry about how sharp the hook is, but rather the engagement angle of it. By that I mean when it is in place around the rim of the shell, the tip of the hook should be closer to the bolt face than the actual top right part of the hook where it goes back into the bolt, kind of like a backwards "S". This means the engagement angle is positive. If the hook is further away than the side, meaning the tip is bent are raised up, then angle is negative and it most likely won't hold the round up against the bolt. It can be changed with a file by filing away material until you bring the hook closer.

When you chamfer the bottom leading edge, place the extractor in a vise with the hook facing to the right instead of the left like it sits in the bolt. simply use the needle file or diamond file to stroke down the face toward the floor at an angle of about 45*. This is the bottom of the leading edge angled up in reality which will allow it to let the next round slide up under the extractor much easier. These things will tune the extractor and it should perform correctly if it hasn't been. I do the chamfer to them no matter what just to aid in feeding.

There is nothing wrong with using the bolt buffer. I use the yellowjacket from ruger22.com myself and they were like 7$/3 if I remember correctly. Making any rifle or pistol reliable should be the goal of anyone that shoots. The extractor tuning is necessary at time and other times the chamfer will suffice. There simply isn't a need to go out and buy new custom parts that someone else spent the time to do what I told you about.

Harry Bonar
October 6, 2005, 07:16 PM
Dear Shooter:
One thing I do wityh 10-22s is after a box or two of shells shot through it take it out of the stock and tighten the two barrel block screws! Solves many problems.
Harry B.