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GuyG
September 4, 2005, 08:53 PM
For many years, I have used two Win. Super X 1's for hunting doves and ducks. No problems. Starting last season however, both began to fail to eject. A local gunsmith worked them over and put in some new parts. Both worked ok for a while, but then one failed again. Took it back to the smith. Today, I shot doves with the other one, which worked fine yesterday. Today it would not eject. Should I just get rid of them and get something else? Any suggestions to get them working? Is there anybody that that can absolutely make them eject reliably?
I live in Louisiana but have a son in Houston so I could get the guns there. If I decide to replace them with new guns, which autoloader do you recommend that will absolutely function with dove and duck loads?

sm
September 4, 2005, 10:11 PM
Welcome to TFL!!


Winchester Super X Model 1 GREAT Shotguns!! :D

Machined Steel receiver and innards - ah yes!! I've fired a few rounds thru these...;)

Nu-Line Guns, Inc.
http://www.nulineguns.com/
8150 COUNTY ROAD 4055
RHINELAND, MISSOURI 65069
(573)676-5500 --- FAX(573)676-3400


I do not know your level of experience, how much these guns have been shot, the inspection and maintence routine.

I really really hope someone has not monkeyed with it or done something like use a drill bit to mess with the ports.

For instance I have a 1974 model in which I have shot over 200K rds thru - and it still runs. These SX1s are some of the most reliable shotguns ever made - period.

Yes that was Two hundred thousand rounds -you read it right the first time.
Nu-Line installed the External Knurled Choke tubes, Choke tubes are still running after all these years too.

I am biased - still say these are THE most reliable semi- shotguns.

May I suggest :

Take down as per instructions inspect ,clean and lube.
( booklet still available from Winchester, Nu-Line probably has one as well)

Gas ports:
use a Pipe cleaner with solvent. Dills [tm]Pipe cleaners - Red package is coarse, yellow package are the normal fluffy, absorbent ones.

Chamber:
One of the most frequent reasons a shotgun will NOT eject, makes no nevermind if Semi, Pump, Single shot, O/U or SxS.

Wisps of 0000 steel wool around a 12ga bronze brush, twist and turn. OR Chuck the cleaning rod into a BATTERY drill and run from chamber to muzzle. This will also remove any plastic fouling.

If you have had choke tubes installed as I have / use this 0000 steel wool method LEAVE the choke tube in to protect the fine threads. After which see below*

As you know in the old days of paper shells, the wax aided in lubricity. Plastic shells came about and if the chamber is not thoroughly cleaned from time to time - the plastic residue left by the very nature of a fired plastic shell leaves a gritty, sticky, chamber and the shells are hard to eject/ extract. Stick you finger in the chamber - you will feel this.

Extractor:
Pipe clean that extractor and bolt face area really well.

Make sure the gas system rings are in correct order. Inspect the "O" ring and replace as need.

Incorrect re-assembly of rings is another BIG reason why Semi's do not eject.

For some reason - Folks get all nervous right before a hunt/ competition and have to fiddle with a gun that was put together correctly before being put in the safe - I have seen a person drop the second bird on doubles on Station One too many times over the years. I have seen other platforms and situations occur from the same reason.

As Sean Connery said in the Untouchables "You checked it once - now put it away".

Clean the whole gun, pipe clean, toothbrush with Hoppe's or Mineral Spirits.

Remove magazine spring, and use a 10 ga brush with 0000 steel wool to remove any crud. IF yours is a Skeet or Trap Model, Skeet/ Trap Two Barrel set, Custom Shop, or Pigeon grade - or has had the Chrome mag tube installed - be careful with strong ammonia solvent, and too rough of handling and 'scrubbing'.


I prefer the carbon steel tubes personally - even requested my Custom Shop and Pigeon Grades have these over the Chrome mag tubes.

CRC Brakleen and blast everything clean. Now one of the best kept secrets on lubing a Semi- Auto Shotgun - Use Automatic Transmisson Fluid (ATF) I am dead serious.

* If yours has had Choke tubes installed, Blast these clean and blast all the residue from chamber, gas ports, and from inside fine threads. I used RIG+P to lube threads personally. A good anti-seize is fine.

I treated my bores with , and the outside of barrel, receiver with RIG - just a light film is all one needs.

The above ususally cures most ills.

There is one more thing if the above does not cure your ills. The L-o-n-g Recoil spring in the buttstock. If these get weak they can cause the symptoms you described. If you are NOT comfortable, do not have user's manual - do not attempt. Let Nu-Line or a Qualified Gunsmith do this.

Now "they used to say" [tm] Replace L-o-n-g Recoil Spring every 5K rds. Well, I replaced mine the first time at ~ 10k or so. I mean I have been known to run 2000K rds in one week, between practice, competition and dove/ quail seasons. Never - I mean never a malfunction, I didn't clean the gun, just added some ATF

Umm....one 1974 Model SX1 is still running with the replacement spring I put in - in 1975. :D I still have the original spring and it still works, I have used it in other folks guns to see if that was their problem - only one fellow really needed one, so with Dx and a call to Nu- Line he got a new spring and all fixed. His still runs btw - that spring was put in about 1984. :p

So I would order from Nu-Line for extra parts : Recoil Spring, "O" rings, Extra Bolt handle.

Always a good idea to have an extra "O" ring in wallet and bolt handle in pocket. "O" rings will fit Rem 1100 and you can bail a buddy out if they bust a "O" ring. The bolt handle - I have never had one fail, Still having an extra bolt handle for SX1 or any Semi is a good idea in the event you drop one in a duck blind, out out a Deer stand or way out on the other side of the field hunting birds.

HTH

Steve