September 4, 2005, 08:53 PM
For many years, I have used two Win. Super X 1's for hunting doves and ducks. No problems. Starting last season however, both began to fail to eject. A local gunsmith worked them over and put in some new parts. Both worked ok for a while, but then one failed again. Took it back to the smith. Today, I shot doves with the other one, which worked fine yesterday. Today it would not eject. Should I just get rid of them and get something else? Any suggestions to get them working? Is there anybody that that can absolutely make them eject reliably?
I live in Louisiana but have a son in Houston so I could get the guns there. If I decide to replace them with new guns, which autoloader do you recommend that will absolutely function with dove and duck loads?
September 4, 2005, 10:11 PM
Welcome to TFL!!
Winchester Super X Model 1 GREAT Shotguns!! :D
Machined Steel receiver and innards - ah yes!! I've fired a few rounds thru these...;)
Nu-Line Guns, Inc.
8150 COUNTY ROAD 4055
RHINELAND, MISSOURI 65069
(573)676-5500 --- FAX(573)676-3400
I do not know your level of experience, how much these guns have been shot, the inspection and maintence routine.
I really really hope someone has not monkeyed with it or done something like use a drill bit to mess with the ports.
For instance I have a 1974 model in which I have shot over 200K rds thru - and it still runs. These SX1s are some of the most reliable shotguns ever made - period.
Yes that was Two hundred thousand rounds -you read it right the first time.
Nu-Line installed the External Knurled Choke tubes, Choke tubes are still running after all these years too.
I am biased - still say these are THE most reliable semi- shotguns.
May I suggest :
Take down as per instructions inspect ,clean and lube.
( booklet still available from Winchester, Nu-Line probably has one as well)
use a Pipe cleaner with solvent. Dills [tm]Pipe cleaners - Red package is coarse, yellow package are the normal fluffy, absorbent ones.
One of the most frequent reasons a shotgun will NOT eject, makes no nevermind if Semi, Pump, Single shot, O/U or SxS.
Wisps of 0000 steel wool around a 12ga bronze brush, twist and turn. OR Chuck the cleaning rod into a BATTERY drill and run from chamber to muzzle. This will also remove any plastic fouling.
If you have had choke tubes installed as I have / use this 0000 steel wool method LEAVE the choke tube in to protect the fine threads. After which see below*
As you know in the old days of paper shells, the wax aided in lubricity. Plastic shells came about and if the chamber is not thoroughly cleaned from time to time - the plastic residue left by the very nature of a fired plastic shell leaves a gritty, sticky, chamber and the shells are hard to eject/ extract. Stick you finger in the chamber - you will feel this.
Pipe clean that extractor and bolt face area really well.
Make sure the gas system rings are in correct order. Inspect the "O" ring and replace as need.
Incorrect re-assembly of rings is another BIG reason why Semi's do not eject.
For some reason - Folks get all nervous right before a hunt/ competition and have to fiddle with a gun that was put together correctly before being put in the safe - I have seen a person drop the second bird on doubles on Station One too many times over the years. I have seen other platforms and situations occur from the same reason.
As Sean Connery said in the Untouchables "You checked it once - now put it away".
Clean the whole gun, pipe clean, toothbrush with Hoppe's or Mineral Spirits.
Remove magazine spring, and use a 10 ga brush with 0000 steel wool to remove any crud. IF yours is a Skeet or Trap Model, Skeet/ Trap Two Barrel set, Custom Shop, or Pigeon grade - or has had the Chrome mag tube installed - be careful with strong ammonia solvent, and too rough of handling and 'scrubbing'.
I prefer the carbon steel tubes personally - even requested my Custom Shop and Pigeon Grades have these over the Chrome mag tubes.
CRC Brakleen and blast everything clean. Now one of the best kept secrets on lubing a Semi- Auto Shotgun - Use Automatic Transmisson Fluid (ATF) I am dead serious.
* If yours has had Choke tubes installed, Blast these clean and blast all the residue from chamber, gas ports, and from inside fine threads. I used RIG+P to lube threads personally. A good anti-seize is fine.
I treated my bores with , and the outside of barrel, receiver with RIG - just a light film is all one needs.
The above ususally cures most ills.
There is one more thing if the above does not cure your ills. The L-o-n-g Recoil spring in the buttstock. If these get weak they can cause the symptoms you described. If you are NOT comfortable, do not have user's manual - do not attempt. Let Nu-Line or a Qualified Gunsmith do this.
Now "they used to say" [tm] Replace L-o-n-g Recoil Spring every 5K rds. Well, I replaced mine the first time at ~ 10k or so. I mean I have been known to run 2000K rds in one week, between practice, competition and dove/ quail seasons. Never - I mean never a malfunction, I didn't clean the gun, just added some ATF
Umm....one 1974 Model SX1 is still running with the replacement spring I put in - in 1975. :D I still have the original spring and it still works, I have used it in other folks guns to see if that was their problem - only one fellow really needed one, so with Dx and a call to Nu- Line he got a new spring and all fixed. His still runs btw - that spring was put in about 1984. :p
So I would order from Nu-Line for extra parts : Recoil Spring, "O" rings, Extra Bolt handle.
Always a good idea to have an extra "O" ring in wallet and bolt handle in pocket. "O" rings will fit Rem 1100 and you can bail a buddy out if they bust a "O" ring. The bolt handle - I have never had one fail, Still having an extra bolt handle for SX1 or any Semi is a good idea in the event you drop one in a duck blind, out out a Deer stand or way out on the other side of the field hunting birds.
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