View Full Version : Cleaning supply check
August 22, 2005, 06:24 PM
All right, trying to get everything I need in order to keep my P2000 and whatever else I may buy in working order
1. Cleaning patches (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=364206)
2. Break-Free (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=840573) I can use this for basic cleaning AND oiling, right? Is it ok to use it on the barrel?
3. Hobbes #9 (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=863018) Do I need this? I read that some people use it, especially after a heavy day of shooting.
I did some searches, and everyone seems to say to avoid aerosol cans. Why? Also, when cleaning my barrel with the brass brush, am I supposed to put some cleaner on the brush before I run it through the barrel?
I'm sorry for all these dumb questions, but I just don't know the answers.
chris in va
August 22, 2005, 07:08 PM
Sounds fine. I use the CLP once a month to break up the embedded grit in the trigger group, and Hoppes with qtips for stuff I can reach. You may find that a Boresnake works wonders for quick barrel swabbing at the range.
You should come out my way sometime to shoot something besides paper. :D
August 22, 2005, 09:53 PM
Use either the Breakfree or the Hoppe's, but not both. They both do the same thing -- remove carbon and other grime.
You may not need to use the brass brush unless you have a really dirty barrel. If you use it, dipping it in cleaning fluid is fine. Just don't put the dirty brush directly into your bottle of cleaning fluid.
I don't think that you'll need to use spray cleaner. Just break down the pistol per the instructions and clean with patches and maybe a couple of cotton swabs.
August 23, 2005, 08:40 AM
Kind of a dunb question, but what do I use to clean the outside of the gun?? :confused: Especially the gunpowder residue at the tip of the barrel.
August 23, 2005, 08:59 AM
This is what I do to clean my gun, but I have a 22 Neos, so your mileage will vary.
I remove the barrel, the slide and the recoil spring.
I use a quality paper towel or a clean lint free rag to hold the metal part I am working with and give it a spray with break free.
I sit it on a clean piece of newspaper to let it get into the trouble areas and move on to the next part
Use an old clean or cheap new toothbrush to work the parts that have sit for a short while with breakfree. and then use a Qtip or some more quality paper towels but roll them into little tight sticks to get into the tiny areas.
The spring on my firing pin/striker gets a good scrubbing with a toothbrush and cloth to remove carbon and crap.
The barrel gets a few patches of bore cleaner through then a brass bore brush with some breakfree on it (I only go one way through the barrel, from the breach to the muzzel) a few times.
I then follow with another break free patch and then about 4 clean patches until they are almost pristine and I can look through the barrel in the light and not see any crud anywhere.
I then shake out any excess on all parts and wipe them down with lint free cloth or paper towels. They should feel somewhat slick, but not wet (and this includes the outside parts too, to protect them
I put a drop on the slide rails and the springs of breakfree and then reassemble. When together I work slide a few times, wipe off any excess and put the gun away.
August 23, 2005, 03:22 PM
Use the Hoppe's on a patch to clean the outside of the gun, too.
August 23, 2005, 05:32 PM
I clean with some combination of CLP Breakfree, Birchwood-Casey Sheath, Hoppes #9, and some aeresol stuff called Get Off. I have in the past used automotive brake cleaner to clean my shotguns but not my handguns. BreakFree and Sheath are both lubricants and I do have some Hoppes gun oil and some Remington gun oil but recently I've been lubing with Slide Glide gun grease which has been wonderful stuff so far. I've heard of some shooters using Mobil-1 synthetic oil to lube too but haven't tried that and probably never will. My handguns get the brass brush down the barrel and a synthetic brush or toothbrush everywhere else. A couple of patches with #9 to make sure everything is clean and I go over the outside of the guns with Hoppes #9 as well. Blow it all down with the compressor when done to get rid of excess oils (don't need it dripping onto my hand at the range), lightly lube it all with my SlideGlide and a small brush and I'm done.
August 23, 2005, 08:46 PM
At home I clean exclusively with MPro-7. It takes off junk you never thought could be cleaned. It's safe for all materials and finishes, nearly odorless, biodegradable and non-toxic.
However, a word of caution. MPro-7 has been rumoured to attack nickle, but it's only after the nickle surface has been damaged creating a breach for the MPro-7 to get under. MPro-7 on an undamaged nickle surface won't hurt it.
MPRo-7 also strips all the oil and grease from metal surfaces requiring them to be recoated for rust protection. The stripping action seems to allow CLP to actually work better. Lube and recoating is with Break-Free CLP or LP depending on what I'm doing.
For copper fouling, I use Tetra copper remover and then MPro-7 to clean the copper remover once the fouling has been cleaned. I'll be switching to Sweet's when the Tetra runs out.
For things that get grease....Brownell's Action Lube Plus. It's a moly type grease and a little goes a long way.
When I'm out in hunting camp it's Break-Free CLP and a military type field cleaning kit.
August 24, 2005, 12:16 PM
OK, I've been reading that Hoppes is a little smelly :D
How about MPro-7 (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=619561) Can I use this in the barrel as well? Or do I need this? (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=855104)
August 25, 2005, 12:56 AM
I apologize for the long post in advance...
Here's what I keep in my cleaning kit and some explanation:
Hoppe's No. 9:
I use this ONLY on the inside of my barrels and other non-blued or non-polymer parts. You can use it on the barrel tip and the outside of the barrel if it is not blued. This stuff is not a general cleaner. It may harm certain materials and finishes. Use it in well ventilated area. It wouldn't hurt to work with Hoppe's in a place where spilling some accidentally wouldn't be the end of the world. Therefore, don't work with Hoppe's on your heirloom wooden dining room table. If you don't wear gloves, wash your hands frequently when using this stuff.
Break Free CLP:
I use this to clean just about every part of my pistols (and rifles) except for plastic or rubber parts like grips. Shouldn't hurt them, but it leaves plastics too slippery. This is not the best bore cleaner out there, but it will do... especially in situations where you don't have the luxury of dedicated products. It is also not the best lubricant for heavy wear areas. It is thin and will run out of the nooks and crannies. Use grease for heavy wear areas. It is good as an overall exterior "wipe down" to prevent rust and keep the weapon from getting dry. A coating of Break Free usually makes it easy to remove powder (carbon) fouling from otherwise "dry" parts, but too thick a coating on the innards can attract debris. Hope that made sense. You'll figure out how much is enough after a few times. CLP works good on tight parts like barrel bushings on 1911 autos... helps prevent them from sticking during your next disassembly.
Get the most inexpensive ones you can that are made of cotton, not synthetics like Tyvek. No need to get the ones listed for a particular caliber, the so-called "universal" ones work fine. You can always cut larger ones into 4 and save cash.
Great for most cleaning duties. Rip these into pieces and discard them often. Don't rub brass shavings or other grime into your firearm's nice finish. Buy cheap no frills towels so you can use a lot of them and not feel bad. Don't use the rough brown type that you see in public bathrooms. These can be abrasive.
Grab a handful of these next time you get Chinese take-out. I whittle the ends down into a screw driver blade shape and wrap paper towels over them. I use the chopstick to push the towel into the slide rails and other nooks and crannies to remove old lube and any accumulated gunk.
Buy a soft metal one. Try to keep it centered in the barrel as you push it so it doesn't scrape the sides and leave shavings behind.
Barrel Cleaning Brushes:
Use soft metal brushes or nylon brushes... stay away from the special looped bristled type brushes. Make sure the barrel has had a patch saturated with bore cleaner pushed through it before pushing a brush through. No need to dunk the bore brush (which may be dirty) into your bore cleaner. Do not change direction of brush motion unless it has exited the breech or muzzle end. Don't go overboard here... a few passes to loosten the worst of the fouling is all you need. Follow up with wet and dry patches. When you are done with the bore brush, clean its bristles with a toothbrush wet with bore cleaner... use lengthwise strokes. No sense putting a filthy bore brush into the barrel each time you clean it.
This is the blunt ended attachment for your cleaning rod with the little spike on the tip used for pushing patches through. Get the strong plastic ones if you can. If not, brass ones are okay.
Good for getting into certain spots. Clean the toothbrush a occasionally during a cleaning session. Spray it with Brake Free and rub it into a piece of paper towel to clean the bristles.
Use grease for heavy wear areas. Many brands are fine... I use Wilson's Ultima Lube. It is not cheap, but a little goes a long way. I am about 2/3 done with a tube I started 2 years ago and I use it on 4 firearms.
Can be used for cleaning and like a paint brush for applying oils. Buy the cheap ones... they ain't goin in your ears!
Some parts should be lubricated with oil. Syringe type applicators work great. Break Free can usually be used in areas calling for oil.
Flitz Metal Polish:
This stuff is great for use on dull feed ramps, unblued full length guide rods and unblued recoil spring plugs. It gets them shiny and smooth. Apply sparingly and don't use too often. This stuff is slightly abrasive.
Sheesh... that was a lot. Sorry, I was on a roll.
August 25, 2005, 08:45 AM
Concerning Hoppe's, Pete45 stated:
I use this ONLY on the inside of my barrels and other non-blued or non-polymer parts. You can use it on the barrel tip and the outside of the barrel if it is not blued. This stuff is not a general cleaner. It may harm certain materials and finishes.
I disagree. Hoppe's is a general cleaner. It can (and should) be used on all parts of the gun, including on the finish (except for a nickel finish). I have used Hoppe's for years on my blued and stainless guns without a problem. It is not the stongest cleaner available, but it does the job, and it won't harm your gun. Hoppe's No. 9 has been used by several generations of shooters to clean guns. It does have a strong smell (which, to this day, I associate with being in my grandfather's shop as a youngster).
I do like the chopstick idea, though! :)
August 25, 2005, 11:53 AM
Fair enough Fremmer... I've always been too scared to let Hoppe's get on blued surfaces. Better to be safe than sorry kind of thing. I guess I don't have to worry so much. Good to know it's not gonna eat a hole through my pistol like the Alien's acid blood :D
I do like the Hoppe's smell too, though I probably should cut down inhalation of that stuff to a minimum. Come to think of it, I used to like the smell of the exaust from the school bus when I was a kid. Weird...
August 25, 2005, 03:47 PM
I'm wary about cleaning fluids ruining a gun's finish too, Pete -- an unintended "Alien's acid blood" effect of a cleaner on a finish would be a disaster! That's why I've always stuck with Hoppe's. It's not fancy, or the strongest, or the most 'modern' cleaning fluid. But it does the job, and it won't harm a blued/stainless finish.
Clean the outside of the gun with Hoppe's, and follow with a light coat of oil.
And I forgot to say...welcome to TFL!
August 25, 2005, 04:38 PM
+1 on m-pro7!! Hoppes # 9 is like water compared to this stuff. Doesn't smell either. m pro 7, lead away cloth, and good oil is all I need.
August 25, 2005, 04:40 PM
BTW.....do not use lead away cloth on blued surfaces.
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