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kart racer
July 23, 2005, 06:57 PM
I bought a sear spring for s/a loaded,all the shop had was wilson bullet proof,when replacing the spring what all do you need to check.it seems like the center leaf is a little longer than the factory-how do you adjust the leafs to lessen the trigger pull?

2ND GUNMAN
July 23, 2005, 10:26 PM
Info Here: (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=1&i=349)

$20 on a trigger pull gauge is money well-spent.

Dave Sample
July 24, 2005, 02:08 PM
I wouldn't touch this post with my 10 foot pole. Look around the other forums for some advice. Good Luck!

Or perhaps some of the other guys here will help you.

HSMITH
July 24, 2005, 02:30 PM
There really isn't a way to explain how to do it correctly over the internet that I can come up with.

Someone will chime in though.

Be CAREFUL when you test fire. If you screw this up you may have it fire when you drop the slide to load a round, and it might go full auto. If you are really unlucky it will go full auto when you drop the slide. These are the 'good' bad things that can happen, you can also wreck the sear in short order if it isn't clearing the half cock notch completely.

Spring tension can be used to put that last little touch on a trigger job, but it should not be used for drastic changes in trigger pull weight. That is what good fitting of the parts is for.

kart racer
July 24, 2005, 06:12 PM
I just matched it up with the factory spring and all worked well.At first the pull seemed a little heavier,but now feels about the same.No full auto this time.

Harry Bonar
August 11, 2005, 06:41 PM
Dear shooter
The three lever spring on a 1911 provides several critical functions. As Dave says, find a GOOD smith familiar with 1911s' and DO NOT try to fit this yourself. Good shooting
Harry B.

Zekewolf
August 11, 2005, 06:52 PM
Too late, Harry, he's already taken the plunge, apparently with excellent results. :)