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redneck
December 23, 2002, 05:59 PM
This is for a lyman great plains kit. I've worked with black walnut before and some plain old walnut. Never worked with any quite as light as this english walnut though.
The finished lymans they had behind the counter were all finished really dark. Looked nice, but I kind of like the lighter finishes they had on some of the other guns.

Can the english walnut be stained to get that deep red color, or would I have to have a maple or cherry stock to end up with that?

Any suggestions for a color of stain?

Also, I'm not real concerned with making a really accurate replica or period peice. But would checkering be appropriate for a rifle like this? Not even sure where on the rifle or what kind of pattern I would use, but I saw some on a gun on trackofthewolf.com and it was kind of neat.

Thanks

rhedley
December 23, 2002, 06:15 PM
LA9111 Antique Wood Stain $9.75



Click to enlarge
Specially formulated to bring out the rich beauty and figure of any wood. Penetrates deep into wood so surface sratches, abrasion and other wear damage will not expose raw, unstained areas. Available in several popular colors that enhance the grain and figure of all woods. All colors of Antique Wood Stain can be intermixed to obtain additional colors. 4 oz. Available in the following colors: MAPLE: Amber color with red untertones, popular 18th-20th century American stock color. HONEY MAPLE: On light colored woods such as maple, stain will color wood an overall rich honey color. Any figure or grain pattern will be stained a darker amber-brown. Color popular in Lebanon and York County, PA. in 18th/19th Centuries. LANCASTER MAPLE- Rich brown color with honey-yellow undertones. Color popular in 18th/19th century in Lacaster County, Pa. WALNUT - Classic walnut color with subtle red undertones. AMERICAN WALNUT- When used on lighter toned woods, produces a rich brown stain w/o the amber or red under tones of other colors. NUT BROWN - On maple, stain has more brown tone than Maple stain. CHERRY - Deep, rich red-brown color. Duplicates the color of 18th nd 19th century firearms from Lehigh and Northampton County, Pa., when staining maple. Matches the classic red-brown used on high quality European firearms, when used on walnut. COLOR MUST BE SPECIFIED WHEN ORDERING.................








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Coltdriver
December 23, 2002, 09:20 PM
I recently stripped a black walnut stock from a 1947 Remington .22 that I got from my dad.

It was originally stained a darker walnut color.

I have finished it in Tung Oil only and used no stain. I purchased a pint of Minwax Tung Oil finish from Home depot. The stock was sanded down to a 400 grit and then the first three coats were painted on and wiped off. Between coats I resanded the surface with a OO Steel Wool and then wiped the stock down dust free. Now I apply a wet coat of Tung oil and let it dry without wiping it off. When it is dry (24 hours) it is steel wooled and wiped down to prep for the next coat. I have about 6 coats on this stock so far with 24 hours between coats. I think about two more coats and it will be done. The tung oil comes out looking glass slick and just beautifully highlights the underlying wood.

The results are outstanding and have really brought out the character and beauty of the natural wood. It is plenty dark all by itself. Tung oil doe not smell so bad that your wife will run you out of the house and it cleans up easily with mineral spirits so there is not a lingering after affect in the house.

The nice part is that if you ding it in the field, fixing the ding and putting a fresh coat of Tung Oil on it is an overnight process. The oil seals up the wood to protect if from the elements and to stabilize it from changes in outside moisture level.

BenW
December 23, 2002, 10:07 PM
Of late I've become a firm believer in just applying oil over the unstained stock. I think you get a nice looking stock even with plain old birch. Plus it's easy to maintain as was pointed out earlier.

I use a method similar to Coltdriver, except I use Tru-Oil. Something I've never tried, but have read in one of my gunsmithing books, is applying the first coat of oil and sanding it in as you go to really impregnate the wood. You then rub with steel wool after it's dry and then apply more coats in a normal fashion. I might try it on the next mislurp I refinish to see if there's a big difference or not.

redneck
December 23, 2002, 11:33 PM
Thanks guys
I'm planning on using danish oil. I have a little more than a quart of it already for knife handles. I'll see what it looks like in the channel that the barrel lies in with no stain. I really like the deep red look that a lot of the guns at the log cabin shop had though.
The stock I have is kind of a gray, just a little darker than maple, with a nice grain. I'll see what it looks like a with a little sanding, and the oil. I think its going to take some stain to get it to really look nice though.

rhedley
I'll check out that antique wood stain if I decide to use some. It sounds like just what I'm looking for. Thanks.

Brian Williams
December 24, 2002, 08:29 AM
Get some Mahogany and Cherry Stain from any paint store and mix the juice from the mahogany no sediment 1/2 n 1/2 with mixed up cherry That will give you the red tones with a nice brown undertone.