View Full Version : J frame trigger work
February 1, 2002, 10:05 PM
I am a do-it-yourselfer, not really an over-do-it-yourselfer, get the picture? Anyway, I was wondering from some of you more experienced tinkers- with respect to trigger work on the J frames. I am curious as to- polishing which part would have the most dramatic impact on the trigger pull in the double action mode? I realize they all work in concert. I replaced my mainspring on my Titanium snub and that was dramatic. Now I am interested in gingerly polishing the part that would make the most improvement. Thanks for your time gang.
February 1, 2002, 11:31 PM
Before you start tearing into your revolver, maybe you should invest in the Book, Smith and Wesson Revolvers by Jerry Kuhnhausen. I have almost all of his books and they are the bible. Follow what he has to say and you will not go wrong. if I'm not mistken, the parts inside of a Smith and Woosey are pretty much the same between frame models, just sized for whatthey are in. Even if I'm wrong about the parts, the basic operationa principles are the same.
February 2, 2002, 04:50 PM
The small revolvers don't seem to respond to attention like the
N-frames do. Look into simply matching the return spring to the
mainspring first and see if that makes you happy.
February 2, 2002, 07:53 PM
Nuther vote for gettin Jerry kunhausen's book on Smiths.
Js can be sweet....hunnert thousand rounds or a bit of judicious polishing. Stay away from the sear surfaces.
February 2, 2002, 10:23 PM
Reducing the trigger spring (inside the rebound slide) by a coil and a half can help a lot, as can smoothing up the slide itself.
I am glad the mainspring replacement worked, as mainsprings on those are tricky due to the light hammer and can't be reduced too much or you can get misfires with a batch of slightly harder primers.
Otherwise, just light polish and burr removal will improve things a lot.
February 3, 2002, 07:05 PM
You might want to take a look at this thread:
February 4, 2002, 06:15 AM
All in all. Only replace the mainspring with a better quality one, like Wolff. Never reduce the strength. Use a lesser power spring in the reboundslide. Need the full length to make sure the trigger returns properly. Bottom and sides of rebound slide can be polished. 1000 and higher wet/dry paper taped toplate glass works well. Will feel like it is oiled after you are done polishing it. When DRY it feels like it has oil. That is when it is smooth enough. Will be like a little mirror. Otherwise look for any places inside the frame that any moving parts may be rubbing and lighlt take off those sharp corners. Carefully avoiding the sear contacts of the hammer and trigger.
February 4, 2002, 06:18 AM
By the way. I carry mine off duty to protect my life. DAILY. and would never want the thing to not go bang when I tell it to. If using the little J for protection don't mess with anything more than that. Target guns are a little different but not by much.
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