Extended mag for Remington 48 or 11?

[Oleg Volk]

I am thinking of getting an old Rem 12ga and fitting it with a longer tube for close-in defense against skeet clays.
1)Would those SGs function with a longer tube?
2)Are extended mags available? Where?
3)How's Rem 11 accuracy with slugs (moving barel concern)?
4)At which point would hi/low recoil spring position need to be flipped in Rem 11? I.e. buck+slug/birdshot or regular/magnum or?

[BAD_KARMA]

Some models of the Remington model 11 will take a magazine extension. The sportsman is limited to 3 shots (2+1) You can get replacement tubes from gunparts corp. I would limit the extention to a 2 or 3 shot one as you cannot clamp to the barrel for support. The quetion I do not know is if the mag cap is the same thread as the A-5 browning.

The light setting should be used for 1 1/8 trap loads. For field loads you should change to the heavy setting as this will slow the barrel recoil and limit wear.

[Oleg Volk]

In general, what are negative aspects of
-Polychokes?
-long-recoil actions? (accuracy, reliability)

I used to have a Rem 11 and could never hit much with it...but it looks like a nice solid gun and not too costly at $140.

[BAD_KARMA]

The polychoke used to come factory direct on a lot of guns. It can, becuase of the "fingers" that adjust the choke diamiter cause more shot deformation which can lead to poor groups. I would not put one on a gun but if it is there I would not cut it off till I tried it out a little. As to the shootablitliy of the mod. 11, the humpback is not for everyone, some people tend to hold there heads high with this design, and that causes aiming errors. You must keep your head down and the gun should shoot to point of aim. The model 11 is an a-5 browing with a few minor changes. I have only ever seen two failures in over 20 years of using recoil guns, both of those involved the extractor pulling thru the rim of the shell. the shells involved were well past their expected life. The critical thing to remember is to put as little oil on the mag tube as is possible and then wipe it with a dry rag to remove any excess. The brass ring in the recoil assembly is designed to drag down the tube and slow the barrel based on the velocity of the shell. ie. the faster the load the more the brass ring compresses the more friction it creates.

[BAD_KARMA]

I forgot to add that to change it from high to low and vice versa.

for low shells the cupped part of the disk should not face the brass disk.

For high brass the cupped part of the disk should face the brass disk this will serve to compress it under recoil and slow the barrel.

[Oleg Volk]

I am thinking of getting a mod.11 (simply because it is easy to maintain and is cheap and might work well enough for trap) but I wonder if it is at all accurate with slugs, moving barrel and all...

(FWIW, one friend had an 11 spontaneously disassemble itself after a shot, fortunately w/o injury to the user)

[TwoGuns]

I re-discovered an old Model 11 I had gotten from a friend a few years back and decided to try some slugs out. At 25 yards it was pretty easy to get good groups on a 2 by 3 foot target with slugs, didn't have any trouble aiming(this was with a bead sight), and recoil was very mild. Haven't shot it much since then, but I do enjoy the gun alot.

[BAD_KARMA]

The model 11 will be as accurate as any other non rifled slug gun. The slug is long gone before the barrel recoils. As to the spontainious dissassembly I will without knowing the facts bet that it was caused by improper assembly. when you put the barrel on you must push the barrel all the way into the reciver, and tighten the mag cap all the way. I case you had not guessed Remington model 11's are kind of my thing. I could bore you with details but suffice it to say the model 11 is everybit the gun an A-5 browing is. Infact for a time remington made A-5's for Browning. If you get the gun for 140 and it is not pitted or too hogged up if you don't want it let me know. My personal prefferance is for early models with the saftey inside the trigger guard.

[Oleg Volk]

The serial number is around 100,000 so I guess it is early 20s. Good shape, the original barrel was Full choke but now has Poly going from IC to Full. Not sure the choke works, can't tell. Someone added a "pedestal" with a white bead to the barrel. What troubled me was that the barrel's rib was very slightly off-center (maybe 2-3mm) and that the 20-21" barrel was a trifle front heavy.

I am tempted to get it but Franchi 612 defense mounted and handled better for me. Of course, Franchi is cylinder bore only and I'd need to get a custom bolt handle made (stock is too small)...and Rem.11 was just much better made. (And 612 was $490 vs. Rem.11 $140 -- that's about ten range fees plus fifty boxes of shells...amount of practice which may overcome clumsier feel of mod.11)

I'll make up my mind shortly. The place that has it is Frontiersman in St. Louis Park, MN...I used to avoid them for bad attitude but they've much improved lately. I'll get their number for you.

[Dave McC]

Had a family Model 11 for a while with Polychoked 22" bbl. IIRC, slug groups with the ramp and bead sight were 5-6" at 50 yards, tho I did no load testing in those days.I did know enough to back the Polychoke off to an open setting when doing slugs and buck. Those "fingers" sometimes would break off shooting punkin balls through a tight setting.

Durability isn't an issue, my smith friend replaced about $20 worth of springs and rings on that one and called it a 10,000 round rebuild.

Sole downside was I hit little flying with the piece, now I believe it was a poorly fitted stock and ignorance that caused that.

For $140, it's worth it IF you like the feel, can handle the stock dimensions, and accept the fact that it will fail to feed a round once in a while. IOW, a better Po' Boy trap and hunting gun than a "Serious" piece.